+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: L4 flash eliminator question

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #1
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    scoobsean's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Last On
    08-15-2017 @ 09:33 PM
    Location
    Shawnee, KS, USA
    Posts
    150
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    05:45 PM

    L4 flash eliminator question

    Attachment 69790Attachment 69789Attachment 69787Attachment 69788
    I bought an L4 flash eliminator. It appears to have no thread inside the tube (just a few scratches). I was under the impression that it would be threaded? Do I just push it onto a turned down barrel and weld or pin in place? There would have to be recesses for the lugs.
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

  2. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Location
    Milsurps.Com
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #2
    Legacy Member Vincent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    02-27-2020 @ 09:22 PM
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,890
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    03:45 PM
    The two I have are just like yours, not threaded. I think they are just pinned.

  4. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  5. #3
    Legacy Member ActionYobbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Last On
    03-27-2024 @ 10:52 PM
    Location
    Flippin Arky
    Posts
    417
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    05:45 PM
    they are pinned. there should be a hole thru the front sight base for the pin. get it fitted up to your barrel (lugs in the recesses) and then drill the hole thru which will put a slot in the barrel for the pin.
    1ATSR 177AD & 4/3 RNSWR

  6. Thank You to ActionYobbo For This Useful Post:


  7. #4
    Legacy Member tankhunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Last On
    06-28-2023 @ 05:15 PM
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,054
    Real Name
    Mike
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    04:45 PM
    These were NEVER threaded on the L4 or Bren series. As Mr.E point's out. They were held in place with a pin.

    REMEMBER!..It is a TAPERED Pin!

  8. The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to tankhunter For This Useful Post:


  9. #5
    Advisory Panel
    Peter Laidler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 07:03 AM
    Location
    Abingdon, Oxfordshire. The home of MG Cars
    Posts
    16,512
    Real Name
    Peter Laidler
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    10:45 PM
    You are implying that there are no lug recesses in your barrel. Is this correct? If not, you'll (or the man who's doing the machining will...) need some further advice.

    You've got the morse taper pin and it looks as though the eliminator is pre-drilled for it.

  10. Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:


  11. #6
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    scoobsean's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Last On
    08-15-2017 @ 09:33 PM
    Location
    Shawnee, KS, USA
    Posts
    150
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    05:45 PM
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    You are implying that there are no lug recesses in your barrel. Is this correct? If not, you'll (or the man who's doing the machining will...) need some further advice.

    You've got the morse taper pin and it looks as though the eliminator is pre-drilled for it.
    Yes, I have the pin and the sight housing has the hole.
    The barrel I have is from a South African 7.62 Bren and is the same design as the one discussed in this link. It is a straight tube and I was hoping to somehow get it reprofiled to mimic the L4.

    http://weaponsonline.proboards.com/t...an-7-62mm-bren
    Last edited by scoobsean; 02-12-2016 at 09:59 AM.

  12. #7
    Legacy Member Vincent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    02-27-2020 @ 09:22 PM
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,890
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    03:45 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by tankhunter View Post
    These were NEVER threaded on the L4 or Bren series. As Mr.E point's out. They were held in place with a pin.

    REMEMBER!..It is a TAPERED Pin!

    That’s good to know. Do you know what size Morse taper finishing reamer is needed to taper the notch in the barrel for the tapered pin?

  13. #8
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    scoobsean's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Last On
    08-15-2017 @ 09:33 PM
    Location
    Shawnee, KS, USA
    Posts
    150
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    05:45 PM
    Thread Starter
    Here is a photo of what I currently have
    Attachment 69842

  14. #9
    Advisory Panel
    Peter Laidler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Last On
    Today @ 07:03 AM
    Location
    Abingdon, Oxfordshire. The home of MG Cars
    Posts
    16,512
    Real Name
    Peter Laidler
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    10:45 PM
    Ah, thereby hangs the problem Vince. As you're aware, the taper now has to be cut half thickness, vertically don't forget, across the solid part of the barrel and you can't cut it with the reamer. That's why in production the FE was fitted tight into the splines and THEN drilled, taper reamered and pinned. And this is the reason why the FE was not available as a spare part (yes, there was a part number but as I always say, the parts list is a list of parts and not a list of AVAILABLE parts).

    To fix this problem you have got to accurately needle file the half diameter across the barrel to mate up reasonably well with the hole/half diameter already cut within the F/E. THEN when both half radiusses are close, then put the morse taper reamer into the hole and turn to cut the correctly aligned taper.

    I was asked to convert a dewat Mk2 barrel into an equally dewat/look-a-like L4A4 barrel. Machining down was a doddle, as was the shortening and EXACT alignment of the opposite locating splines (more later.....). The buggerance factor was cutting the new half diameter taper across the barrel so that the taper pin would align the half diameter in the F/E and barrel exactly. This is exactly what Scooby has got to do next.

    But Scooby doesn't have the benefit of existing splines to guide the cutting of NEW splines! And if the splines aren't EXACTLY square-on/upright or opposite then the foresight will be canted over. So here's what you must do Scooby...... Tell the man cutting the splines that to get this correct, the datum from which he works MUST must be taken from a horizontal line that follows the line of the gas port through the underside of the gas block, across the gas plug opening, back into the gas block and into the barrel. I used an exact fit steel rod to get this horizontal datum to calculate the exact square for the splines.

    Sorry to be so long winded but have read and re-read this and can't simplify it. And before you ask, nope....... didn't get it right the first - or even the second try but managed it exactly the third go!

    Just seen the photos Scooby. Just go carefully and you'll do it. Shame you don't live around the corner or I'd have it done by this evening!

  15. The Following 3 Members Say Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:


  16. #10
    Legacy Member Vincent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    02-27-2020 @ 09:22 PM
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,890
    Local Date
    04-27-2024
    Local Time
    03:45 PM
    Thank you so much Peter. I wouldn’t have thought of using a needle file. You save me a lot of time and aggravation.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. TT-33 Muzzle Flash
    By Don'tkillbill in forum Range Reports - Show us how good you are!
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-29-2013, 12:23 AM
  2. No.5 Faz with BSA-Shirley (M47C) Flash Eliminator Group?
    By drweiler in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 04-16-2012, 02:47 AM
  3. Help on No5 Mk1 flash hider...
    By Rockcrusher in forum The Lee Enfield Knowledge Library Collectors Forum
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 04-14-2012, 11:41 PM
  4. M1A/ M14 Flash hider/ supressor question & help, please.
    By Bear57 in forum M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-10-2009, 04:51 AM
  5. M1C M2 Flash Hider Question???
    By flintstone in forum M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-22-2009, 01:26 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts