1st post! Ishapore 2a1 sporter restoration

[MosinVirus]

You'll need to find a long SMLE bolt head and fit it properly. It's a measure and select fit process. No.4 bolt heads came in different lengths but the process is still a measure and select fit process. The measurements can vary greatly and don't necessarily coincide with the number stamped on that supposedly denotes the size.

Thank you. I called up Numrich, and asked them to send me 3 longest heads they can find, above 0.640".

Should unused bolt bodies and heads clock/index by default? If they underturn, do I remove metal from the cheaper part? If they overturn, can I use a properly sized steel shim?

[Peter Laidler]

I'll pass on my limited experience........ again. You need to start with a new bolt body first. Once the new bolt body has a perfect bearing fit - as per the detailed bolt fitting instructions - then you can set about trying to get CHS with different bolt heads. Bolt heads do not necessarily index with a new bolt and vice verca but they're pretty close. If the bolt head underturns then carefully machine a sliver of steel from the mating surface of the bolt head until the bolt head aligns exactly with the long locking column of the bolt when tightened up. This is the BEST option and ensures that the......... anyway. If it overturns a very small amount then so be it. You CANNOT under any circumstances use shims of any sort.

[CINDERS]

I am with Brian on this if the hard facing is cactus in the body then you are setting yourself up for a potential failure and the NATO round operates at a much higher pressure than the 303 probably around 14 - 16,000psi higher just my untrained eyes can see the burring on the lugs and how it has affected the lug recess in the body. Personally I would be wary and I guess there are those that will cane me and say its fine to shoot to which I would remark well and good as your not the bloke shooting it the owner is. I have become allot more cautious since an episode I had with a modern rifle let alone one that has been in India and probably of skeptical checks and balances.

Its your rig Mosin I know you have put allot of effort into this project but let others well versed in the lee enfields air their opinions and see what they say in the end your the one who is going to shoot it but from my point the bolt lugs and the peening in the body says to me it has had a very hard life your call.

.642 to .646 are pretty scarce fleabay has them but I have seen them go for hefty prices in the region of $120/AU

[MosinVirus]

I'll pass on my limited experience........ again. You need to start with a new bolt body first. Once the new bolt body has a perfect bearing fit - as per the detailed bolt fitting instructions - then you can set about trying to get CHS with different bolt heads. Bolt heads do not necessarily index with a new bolt and vice verca but they're pretty close. If the bolt head underturns then carefully machine a sliver of steel from the mating surface of the bolt head until the bolt head aligns exactly with the long locking column of the bolt when tightened up. This is the BEST option and ensures that the......... anyway. If it overturns a very small amount then so be it. You CANNOT under any circumstances use shims of any sort.

Thank you Peter. I am by no means dismissing or undermining your instructions. I have two unnumbered new BSA bolt bodies on order, and three bolt heads from gunparts coming.

I will start with a bolt body and see how the locking lugs engage. Then stone the high spots (if any) to increase the engagement surface.

Once that is done I will start looking at the bolt heads. I will measure them first and see if I got lucky and got a long one in the order. I will not use shims (as you instructed). In case it underturns I will ask my smith to put it in a lathe and remove just enough material to make it turn in with perfect alignment with the long lug and be snug against the bolt body at the same time.

I will follow your instructions completely making sure the cocking piece lift is there and the firing pin protrusion is proper.

I am just ordering parts to have parts on hand and to be able to have somewhat a selection of parts to play with. Again, I will be following your procedure entirely and step by step. I don't mind having to spend a bit more money and ending up with more parts than I need.

Once again, I really appreciate all your help, and Brian's and everyone else's on this forum.

If I appeared to be jumping over steps, and dismissing in any way, that was not my intention. I do want to learn, and I do want to learn the right way.

[MosinVirus]

I am with Brian on this if the hard facing is cactus in the body then you are setting yourself up for a potential failure and the NATO round operates at a much higher pressure than the 303 probably around 14 - 16,000psi higher just my untrained eyes can see the burring on the lugs and how it has affected the lug recess in the body. Personally I would be wary and I guess there are those that will cane me and say its fine to shoot to which I would remark well and good as your not the bloke shooting it the owner is. I have become allot more cautious since an episode I had with a modern rifle let alone one that has been in India and probably of skeptical checks and balances.

Its your rig Mosin I know you have put allot of effort into this project but let others well versed in the lee enfields air their opinions and see what they say in the end your the one who is going to shoot it but from my point the bolt lugs and the peening in the body says to me it has had a very hard life your call.

.642 to .646 are pretty scarce fleabay has them but I have seen them go for hefty prices in the region of $120/AU

Thank you. I completely understand, and if there is no way to get this rifle to headspace correctly, and if Brian will accept to take a look at the rifle and says I shouldn't shoot it, I will abandon the project,

[Vincent]

There’s man who sells receivers at our local gun shows for $20. Let me know if you need one. I might be able to get him down to $15 if he a lot of them. He strips the guns for parts and sells them on internet auction sits. There’s not much call for the receivers.

[Peter Laidler]

Just as a little aside, we don't know for sure whether this body (or receiver to you wild colonials over there) has been swaged. It's not clear to me from the photos or from dye marking evidence! But there's more. If the body HAS been swaged, then surely that swaging WOULD bring it into CHS. After all....., that's the purpose of swaging it!

Does it need a new crank, a new set of mains or a new block? That's the question. Time it was sent to a garage for an expert to have a look at.........

[MosinVirus]

Just as a little aside, we don't know for sure whether this body (or receiver to you wild colonials over there) has been swaged. It's not clear to me from the photos or from dye marking evidence! But there's more. If the body HAS been swaged, then surely that swaging WOULD bring it into CHS. After all....., that's the purpose of swaging it!

Does it need a new crank, a new set of mains or a new block? That's the question. Time it was sent to a garage for an expert to have a look at.........

Hi Peter,

What should I look for to see if it has been swaged? And how is swaging accomplished on the body (adopting your nomenclature ) is that something Brian could do?

Thank you

---------- Post added at 04:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:46 PM ----------

There’s man who sells receivers at our local gun shows for $20. Let me know if you need one. I might be able to get him down to $15 if he a lot of them. He strips the guns for parts and sells them on internet auction sits. There’s not much call for the receivers.

Does he have any 7,62 receivers?

[Vincent]

Does he have any 7,62 receivers?

I will ask him at the next gun show.

[Peter Laidler]

When someone swages something it's usually pretty obvious. I'm sure that the only other word for a swage is a bodge. It is a bit like that other well known bodge of 'ring punching'. They're a quick fix but nothing permanent and doomed to fail, quickly. Mechanical instructions try to make it sound technical using words like '.....gently swage the end to prevent.........'.
I'm not sure how you would swage a No1/SMLE body locking surfaces especially the inner/left hand side one!
Anyone could try to swage the locking surfaces but I can tell you that Brian definately wouldn't - and nor should you or anyone you know!

6 pages spent on this rifle that has achieved nothing apart from some 'new' wood. I suggest that it's time to let an expert assess it.