Fitting a barrel to a #1 mk3

[rjinbama]

First of all "Hello" to everybody on this forum from the state of Alabama, USA. This is my first post here even though I have been a member for a while. Here's where I'm at, I have experience barreling Mauser type actions, have re-barreled some M-1 Carbines, but haven't done an Enfield.

I have a #1 Mk3 action, and have found a decent barrel for it. What are some of the pitfalls, tips, advice etc. that I will need to mate these two pieces? This is a take-off barrel with all the parts still on it, and would love to get this action back into action(pardon the pun). Any guidance from the group would be greatly appreciated. And again it's great to be a member here. Thanks

RJ

Information

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[Peter Laidler]

The very first piece of advice is this. Unless you have the CORRECT equipment for this operation, then don't even try. It is simplicity itself to bend or distort the body if you don't use the right kit. And when that happens, it's impossible to get it back. The same applies to your local 'gunsmith', most of whom, in my opinion are........... I'll leave my opinions there!

It's got to be done properly by an expert who has experience. I'd suggest that you pack the two bits up and send/take them to someone who knows what he's doing. Barrel fitting isn't a simple case of unscrewing one and screwing in another.............. Well, it is......... but there's a whole LOT more to it than that. If you need an expert to do the job, I know one in SC who might help

[Vincent]

The body/receiver is not as strong as most Mauser type actions. It takes very little to bend it. You will need the right barrel vice and action wrench or it’s going to bend for sure. If you are just doing one, it’s cheaper to have someone like Brian Dick do it than buying the vice and wrench.

Another option is to buy a sporter with a good barrel and swap the wood, etc. They can be had for a lot less than the vice and action wrench.

[browningautorifle]

Agreed, Brian Dick is close enough to you to be easy to deal with. Message him and get on with it.

[rjinbama]

Yes, I agree that the receiver of the #1 is different from the others I have dealt with before. I already am set up with a proper barrel vise, action wrench, very secure holding set-up etc. I have already removed the old barrel from this action after the usual soaking in penetrant oil for two days, and warming of the receiver with a heat gun prior to "un-screwing". Even with it being a pre-1920 gun, the two parts parted ways very easily(compared to some I have done in the past). I have cleaned the threads and checked for burs, rough spots, roundness etc. Everything thing was looking good. I was going to start on it this long weekend, and wanted to throw it out there for you guys to give me your two cents worth. I may have to call Brian and see what his schedule looks like. Then, a road trip to SC would be a nice little excursion! I do love certain parts of the state, been there lots of times(Beaufort being the last) Thanks guys, appreciate the help!

RJ

[browningautorifle]

As long as the barrel turns to TDC without incident or over crushing then you're fine. If you're prepared for extra effort if it is a problem and can imagine those issues, then you should be OK too. Then headspace and fitment of a bolt...and woodwork...

[Peter Laidler]

Surface plate to ensure exact alignment of the body to the barrel/sights........

[browningautorifle]

Surface plate to ensure exact alignment

Yup, like I say...nothing too it...

[Steve H. in N.Y.]

RJ,
I suspect you know this already but just in case; One important difference between a Mauser and an SMLE is that when fully tightened, the shoulder of the SMLE barrel does not actually touch the front of the receiver. The end of the barrel bears against the inside flange.

[rjinbama]

Thanks Steve, I was thinking that was the case, but glad you let me know! I love the way everybody's willing to help one another. Thanks again!

RJ