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Thread: 1941 SVT 40 just had to have one

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  1. #21
    Legacy Member Cheese Noodles's Avatar
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    Great pictures of the Germans using Sovieticon Snipers. I got interested going to the range with a friend, he had a K98icon and I was a WWII history buff. I never even got one, but 4 Soviet rifles acquired. I did get a 33/40 (Refinished) and a German Modified VZ 24 (posted pictures on this forum).

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #22
    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    That "red" colour of the metalwork is a function of the reaction of heat-treated, "high" alloy steels to "hot" bluing baths.

    The metal just forms a "different" "oxide" skin that just happens to be reddish.

    The solution, as I discovered some years ago whilst fooling around with the commercial "Du Lite" system, is to run the tank at a lower than normal temperature and have the metal parts pre-heated in a hot, but NOT boiling, water bath. Lower the parts in and check for colour change (the bath actually working).

    It SHOULD start to develop a dark, blue-ish tinge. Return the parts to the tank and start raising the temperature to "normal". It should come out with a rich, dark, almost black finish.

    However, some alloy-steel components that had been heat-treated for a specific hardness, required a quick "once-over" with a grit-blaster using fine garnet grit at fairly low pressure, to break up the super-hard skin of oxides of Chromium etc., and to "activate" the steel surface. Then, parts came out of the tank a nice "satin-black", not splotchy purple. This is not unlike the process of "blasting" before Phosphating, and for similar reasons.

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