SRS Search on M1903 please

[relics6165]

rambo46:

If/when you pull the barreled receiver out of the stock, look for a set of star gauge numbers that would be hidden by the forend. They would consist of a letter over a set of (ususlly) 3 numbers, for example A 135. The Type T barrel did not have the star gauge mark on the muzzle. If you have these numbers, it is a USGI Type T barrel.

How long is it, most are 30".

As for a Type T being a sweet shooting rifle, I shot a 10 shot group at 100 yards with mine, the group was slightly larger than a dime, easily covered with a nickel. This was with 1920s metallurgy, technology, and machining methods, the stock 2 stage trigger,"slow" lock time, and a 70 year old scope! Not benchrest by any means, but not too shabby either.

I still have the target around here, somewhere........................

[Rick the Librarian]

...Make sure you don't get the Star Gauge number mixed up with the steel lot code, which is usually on the side of the barrel.

[Cosine26]

If it is a commercial barrel (as the Niedner marking would indicate) would it have a star gauged number? I know that at one time, SA would star gauge SA M1903 barrels, but did not know that SA would star gauge commercial barrels. Just wondering.
I did not know that SA used commercial barrels on the Type "T".

[rambo46]

As I mentioned, this weekend my friend and I will do an autopsy on that rifle and remove the stock. We have a gun show on Saturday, two hour ride but usually worth it, so Saturday evening or Sunday should reveal a few new bits of information.

Again, thanks much.

[relics6165]

Cosine 26:

If this rifle has a commercial barrel, it would not have star gauge markings. If it is a USGI barrel from SA it should have them. That was one of my thoughts on how to identify the barrel and the AO Niedner stamp, USGI or commercial. These barrels were available from the DCM, as were barreled receivers. The owner of this rifle could have purchased one from the DCM, and sent it to Niedner for the rifle build, OR Niedner was certainly able to make a copy of a Type T barrel.

The presence or absence star gauge numbers should tell us...............

rambo46:

While you are looking at the rifle, please let us know the barrel length, from the muzzle to the bolt face.

HTH

[rambo46]

We finally put aside some time and took the rifle apart. The barrel length is 26 inches and the only numbers on the underside of the barrel can be seen in the pictures. That trigger was so sensitive that it had to be adjusted on the heavier side, about 7 or 8 oz. now. One of the pictures shows a piece of wood inlaid in the barrel channel. Does anyone have an idea why ?
Most of the pictures in Col. Brophy's book show rifles with Woody triggers but there is a few nice pictures of a Rimkunas set trigger on p142.

[browningautorifle]

piece of wood inlaid in the barrel channel

Is it a harder wood? Possible moisture resistant so things don't move?

[rambo46]

Jim,

Never thought of that, we'll have to take a closer look at the wood composition.

Thanks,

Bruce

[relics6165]

Looks to me like the inset wood is being used to fill the space where the rear sight base was. Now a 1922 NRA Sporter stock, with a rear sight base, I'm gonna have to think about that one for a while.......................?

I think there were a few made that way.

More later.

Is there a Circle P proof mark on the pistol grip?

[relics6165]

Your receiver dates from early 1924, and, IF we are to assume (I'm going to) that the sideways 4 and 91 is actually 491, and someone did an oops when they struck the 4, then Niedner's barrel number 491 would, according to Michael Petrov, date from early 1925. The 491 is in exactly the right place to be a Niedner barrel number. With no star gauge numbers, no USGI steel lot codes, and no proof P on the barrel, along with Niedner's barrel address, I think it is safe to assume Niedner made the barrel.

I have looked at some other Niedner barrel numbers, and as I recall, the font is the same.

Look closely at the bolt, check to see if there are any letters or numbers anywhere on the bolt. They could be on the bottom of the safety lug, or on the top of the bolt handle. With your bolt being a straight handled bolt, it is probably on the bottom of the safety lug. The straight handled bolt predates mid (? without looking) 1918, the swept handle was the later design, but many shooters preferred the early, casehardened bolts, referring to them as "slick as glass".