effect on value question on 1903a3?

[browningautorifle]

It reads like a book. Nice clean example.

[Salt Flat]

Snert, Nice rifle. Although I like the milled trigger guards, I think I would replace it with an 03a3 guard. (just my opinion) They don't cost much and the rifle would be more original. The 03 milled guards are getting to be valuable so don' trade it straight across.

[Snert]

Reason for the value question is I was considering changing out the floor plate. I am fine with the milled, but being a arsenal rebuild figured it does not matter. SO was thinking of getting a stamped "R" trigger guard/floor plate.

Now with the rifle in general I have a few questions, so please educate me on this rifle.
1- Underside, behind the trigger there is a "R" stamp. Does this indicate Remington stock, I always thought they stamped on the front flat below barrel on the stock/forearm.
2- on the bolt handle underside, there is the "R" with a punch mark, but on the other side of the handle there is a "C" . What does the "C" indicate Smith Corona?
3- Front sight mount is stamped "R" and the blade is stamped "C" again is this Smith Corona ?
4- Sling, I can get better pics if needed but I see a few stampings, 1918 and some initials. On the end by brass there is JJOL and a very faint 1918. Will this be a original USGI issue sling or a aftermarket. Condition seem to fit the age, But I see some folks say leather is correct, others say webbed is correct.

Now I picked this up from my local FFL and do not have any intentions of selling at this time. But with what you see what would you say a fair value is on the rifle? I did purchase a OE cleaning kit and it is in the stock as well, it is the plastic, not nickel kit.
Bore is very clean and bright, good amount of rifling left and appears to be a 4 groove.

Thank you in advance,
Snert

[Patrick Chadwick]

Hallo Snert!

Please do not take what follows as a personal criticism. It is not meant to be so. What it is meant to be is a considered critique of a way of thinking that infests the milsurp community. The "correctomania" that leads through falsification to downright faking.

Hello, New guy here with first question to milsurps.com..
I recently acquired a real nice Remington 1903-A3 from a local shop. So a buddy of mine who is a lot more knowledgeable on the WW1/2 rifles than I look it over. He goes on talking how I should change the incorrect parts to correct parts...

Should? Why should? What makes the present parts incorrect - and whatever is incorrect supposed to mean?

...
Now rifle in question has had a arsenal rebuild...

So whatever was done in the course of the rebuild was correct in the eyes of the arsenal at that time. Or is it to be assumed that RIA etc were falsifying or faking rifles?

My question would making the rifle correct to pre-arsenal rebuild effect the value...

Here we go down the slippery slope to faking. The lure is not a genuine desire for an imagined "correctness", but rather an increase in value in a market where genuine history goes out of the window.

Since the rifle was undeniably rebuilt, as indicated by the stamps on the stock, retrospectively altering it to an imagined pre-rebuild "correct" configuration is FALSIFICATION.

Yes having a 100% correct from the create rifle would be great, But then to me takes away from the nostalgic heritage of the rifle...

Now you are getting there! Falsifying the rifle to simulate its presumed ex-factory condition (which will always conflict with the rebuild mark) is destroying its history.

Honestly I am torn between making it all correct small ocd issue or leave it as is...

Glad to hear it! You have a fine example of a real rifle that went "through the mill", not an assemblage of parts bought and put together to create an imaginary original.

If you are truly:
1) concerned about the history of old artefacts,
2) not wanting to fake something to make it more valuable in a misguided market,

then LEAVE IT AS IT IS

Please!

[Doco overboard]

I would leave it as is and only move the bottom metal to another rifle that comes to you in need of the milled guard. Everything looks to have been together for some time and stamped guards are not difficult to locate.

[Orroe]

Reason for the value question is I was considering changing out the floor plate. I am fine with the milled, but being a arsenal rebuild figured it does not matter. SO was thinking of getting a stamped "R" trigger guard/floor plate.

Now with the rifle in general I have a few questions, so please educate me on this rifle.
1- Underside, behind the trigger there is a "R" stamp. Does this indicate Remington stock, I always thought they stamped on the front flat below barrel on the stock/forearm.
2- on the bolt handle underside, there is the "R" with a punch mark, but on the other side of the handle there is a "C" . What does the "C" indicate Smith Corona?
3- Front sight mount is stamped "R" and the blade is stamped "C" again is this Smith Corona ?
4- Sling, I can get better pics if needed but I see a few stampings, 1918 and some initials. On the end by brass there is JJOL and a very faint 1918. Will this be a original USGI issue sling or a aftermarket. Condition seem to fit the age, But I see some folks say leather is correct, others say webbed is correct.

Now I picked this up from my local FFL and do not have any intentions of selling at this time. But with what you see what would you say a fair value is on the rifle? I did purchase a OE cleaning kit and it is in the stock as well, it is the plastic, not nickel kit.
Bore is very clean and bright, good amount of rifling left and appears to be a 4 groove.

Thank you in advance,
Snert

Snert
Answers for your above questions.

1) That R is a some type inspection stamp. Remington marked their stock else where.

2) Your bolt is a Remington 03A3 bolt. The C is again another inspection stamp, what for, don't know.

3) The C on the blade sight designates the height of that blade is, for the 03 rifles there are something like 5 different Blade heights mark A to E I believe.

4) the sling sure does look a original 1907, The 1903A3 rifles did not come with slings from the factory but were issued at the unit level. Yes leather sling were still being issue during WWII.

Look like you have a nice looking rifle with many Remington parts on it. I would not change any parts unless the part is worn or is a reproduction part. As for the swapping the trigger guard, many individual prefer the milled trigger guard because they don't dig into the stock when tighten like the stamp guards do. The subject swapping parts on these rifle can be a hornet nest depending on who you are conversing with. Your not going to increase value of the rifle by changing out parts because it been rebuilt at least once. As other have put it, the rifle is factory original once, and after it been rebuilt it no longer original collecting wise. It's up to you if you want spend the extra money to make your rifle authentic, it's your rifle but hang on that milled trigger guard. The Prices for these rifles very depending where you are, condition, how much in demand they are at the time of sale. It could be from $600 to $900 for average cost depending on condition. Pristine will go a bit more.

I have several 03 & 03A3 and enjoy shooting all them. the only problem is once you get one, you'll want more.

Owen

[Snert]

Well guys here is what I think I am going to do...I'm not going to change a thing! I will however pick up a Remington 03-a3 trigger/floor plate and just put it on the shelf to just have.

The more I look and read I feel it is worth keeping as it came to me, hopefully in 100% arsenal rebuild condition. As mentioned by others, to make it correct would be a lie, and the cartouche stamps tell the story.

Onward to find what to use to preserve the sling ...

Thanks again guys!

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

Very nice A-3. Just an opinion. I might change to an R marked part if and only if the finish matched perfectly. And like you the decision would be driven by OCD. The rifle appears to be a nice example of an OG rebuild.

[Snert]

Anyone have a good product recommendation for preserving the sling? as you can see it has some cracking and dry spots. I want to keep the sling with the rifle, but do not need it to rip apart by the cracks.

I will not be slinging the rifle over my shoulder, and shooting it will be from a bench rest. I prefer to leave the sling on the rifle , it completes the look of a issue rifle.

My extent of leather preservation is in cars, with over the counter auto detail products. I do not think it to be wise to use them on this sling.

[browningautorifle]

Over the years here you find Pecard's and Lanolin recommended. Both groups will fight the other for domination and have a hundred reasons. You want to restore supple movement and preserve without altering... I've used many things, all products for oiling and waterproofing leather and none have damaged or degraded my slings.