New collector, need advice please

[ccjcc81]

The sanding doesn't help but I've seen far worse. Staining the wood the original purplish brown color followed by a couple of coats of raw linseed oil rubbed-in would improve the rifle's appearance considerably. The handguard is from ca.1905, or a much earlier rifle, that has been notched for the later sight which is a pity, because original handguards from that period are scarce. Correct handguards with the circular windage knob cut are easy to find and inexpensive. How is the bolt marked and what are the measurements of the gas relief ports on the bottom? The original butt plate was smooth but the fine-checkered one on it is much harder to find so I'd leave it as is. All things considered, it's a very nice rifle and certainly worth a little effort.

I am really tempted to try to get the wood closer to the color I see on the ones that haven't been tampered with as much. I like that dark walnut look. Would I need to strip the stock to re-stain it? That would probably also entail some more sanding, right? I'm really interested in this. I've re-finished a couple of AK stocks, so I'm sure I could do it, but I don't know if I want to sand on this any more...[COLOR="black"]

---------- Post added at 05:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:04 PM ----------

You may be responsible for a few blood pressure spikes with the intro.
Nice rifle & photos as well.
Now is that not nicer than any AR-15?

You wouldn't believe it if you knew me. I have never been interested in firearms like this, but after handling this one for a week, I've become somewhat obsessed. ARs seem downright boring now. I think it's the wood. It's so much more aesthetically appealing than plastic and aluminum. I've decided that I need a Garand, an M14 clone, and a .308 Israeli Mauser for blasting fun. I don't think I'll be shooting this 1903 much. It just seems too nice for using. I've been bitten by a bug here. I don't know how I'm going to afford all of that.

---------- Post added at 05:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:08 PM ----------

The original finish wasn't a green parkerization. Your rifle was on the "cusp" between being blued and being parkerized a black color (with a VERY slight olive tinge.). Thus my statement that your rifle was likely refinished at some point.

What marking is on the top of the bolt handle?

I just noticed what Bear said about the handguard ...possibly one of those early non-sight groove handguards that was modified by a previous owner/shooter?

The bolt handle has "BF," and below that "22." What does that mean?

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

Very nice article in the current American Rifleman about the U.S. Marines and there weapons in WWI including the 03.
The marriage of wood and steel is fascinating along with the history associated with the various arms. You may come full circle and need a Retro AR.
Welcome to the forum and the community of those who share your interest.

[oldcorps]

Judging by the remnants of both a serifed and a non-serifed firing proof, the stock has been through at least one government rebuild. Sanding shouldn't be necessary but after it's field stripped, going over it with extra fine steel wool should be enough to prepare the wood for staining. I'd buy the correct handguard first and stain both to match. There is an abundance of original handguards on the market with the circular windage knob cut that range from used to unissued for about $30. Installing one with both new clips should eliminate the looseness and required shimming. It's a great rifle and its restoration should be both rewarding and fun. It has an 03A3 bolt and the correct one would also have a swept handle for November '18 bot only a single smaller gas relief port.

[ccjcc81]

My bolt appears to only have one gas relief port. Is this the circular windage knob cut you're referring to on my top handguard? So that wouldn't have been there originally? What rear sight should this rifle have?




---------- Post added at 08:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 PM ----------

It depends on what the movement is, I had a piece of rubber tube in a handguard in an M1 rifle once. Small and just enough to stop movement. Hide it inside the metal at the end. Use good, new brushes and oil and it will come clean if it's going to. Shoot it a bit first and clean after to loosen anything up.

As you suggested, I shimmed the top handguard with some rubber. I used some bicycle inner-tube I had lying around. It completely eliminated the wobble, and tightened up the rear barrel band a lot. But, do you think I can shoot it like that? How much heat do you suppose bicycle inner-tube can take?

[BEAR]

Remember it's a bolt gun not a semi-auto. Unless you're in a trench with Jerry approaching you will probably be firing a whole lot slower than with your mouse gun.

BEAR (BDY)

[browningautorifle]

But, do you think I can shoot it like that?

Like Bear says it should be fine. I had a piece in the M1 rifle I converted to 7.62 and I shot that hot lots. This piece should last fine. If it starts to give, cut another and replace it...happy it worked.

[Calif-Steve]

BF22 is an early WWII replacement bolt. It is a nice keeper as is the entire rifle. I would leave it alone and not "FIX" anything. It is nearly 100 years old and fixing it will only hurt it. Leave it alone and enjoy it as is. Try some light/medium handloads. 40-44 gr. Varget/4064 and a nice 168gr. target bullet. That should run well for you.

[oldcorps]

Yes, that's the correct windage knob shape for a 1918 vintage '03 and remained so until WWII. Since '03 parts aren't numbered to the rifle as is the case in say, Mausers, you have more options if you decide upon a restoration. When I come across an early high-number '03 it frequently has an 03A3 bolt probably because they're the most common and will work as well as the original. Mixmasters are common and priced accordingly but a rifle in its original WWI configuration is far more of an asset. Original stocks, especially with cartouches, are the most difficult parts to find and bring ridiculous prices but yours is quite serviceable. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

[oldcorps]

A good example of whether to restore or leave "as is" would be the Rem Rand .45 I got in trade recently. The pistol was correct with the exception of a postwar GI replacement barrel and commercial rubber grips. By replacing the non-original parts with the correct ones from the period at modest cost, the value of the pistol was increased disproportionately at a minimal investment and should I decide to do so, it'll bring considerably more in trade. I read a lot of controversial opinions on forums but mixmaster preservation is a new wrinkle. As always, good luck!

[ccjcc81]

Guys, thanks for all the great advice and info. I'll take your advice, I'm not going to fool with it. I'll leave it as is, stock and all. The stock shim has eliminated my only real annoyance. I may try to stain the stock later, and when I do, I'm sure you'll be hearing from me again with more questions.

I'm going to try to go shoot this weekend. If I get a chance, i'll post my results here for any who're interested.

Thanks again.