Question for the more experts about S&W revolvers

[Ovidio]

I sometimes shot revolvers, .357, .44 and once a .50, but I'm no expert with them.
As a handgun I have a wonderful Bernardelli P-One in 9x21 from my time when I worked with them and shoot it pretty well. Also a Walther PP Sport in .22
LR, but that's a light one.
Now I just want to have a bit of fun with a "cannon". If I can buy it at a honest price, if I don't like it, I can still sell it without much regret.
But, knowing myself, I guess I'll like it more than a lot.

[Woodsy]

One of the big advantages of a revolver over a semi-auto pistol is accuracy. There is a slight difference in shooting technique between the two but sight picture and trigger control are the most important. For one-handed single action target shooting I like to take a fairly high grip on a revolver (I have biggish mitts) and the main grip is between my 2nd and 3rd fingers and the web of my thumb, with my thumb resting lightly on the top of the cylinder latch (do not exert any pressure with your thumb). Always cock the gun with your non-shooting hand to avoid disturbing your grip. A good S&W revolver is capable of shooting one-hole 5 shot groups at 25 metres, and 50mm groups at 50 metres with good ammunition. For double action shooting is is best to spend time developing the ability to pull the trigger right through smoothly without getting any lateral movement of the gun. Start slowly and smoothly and speed will come with practice. S&W revolvers are able to be tuned very smooth and light (about 2.5 - 3 kgs) in the double action pull, but this is a job for a specialist with a proven track record - definitely not a job for the enthusiastic amatuer! Lots of dry-firing practice will pay divedends. Good luck!

[Ovidio]

Thank you.
I promised my better half to wait until Christmas, then I'll get a go on the big revolver thing.
9x21 ha gotten me a bit bored...

[browningautorifle]

Show us what comes of this in the long run then...

[Brian Dick]

Mine has the full under lug, unfluted cylinder and standard front sight. A 6" barrel is as long as I care for. 5" is ideal but this revolver was one of a kind at the time and I traded my standard 629 in on it. I also have two Model 27's in .357 Magnum. One with a 5" and the other a 3.5" barrel. I have a 4" 686 that is also flawless. I'm with BAR on shorter barrels.

[Ovidio]

Wow, you got a few...
How does the front sight adjustment work exactly?
Can you set the sight independently in all 4 positions?

[Woodsy]

Wow, you got a few...
How does the front sight adjustment work exactly?
Can you set the sight independently in all 4 positions?

There is a small numbered wheel that can be rotated to 4 positions. The sight has 4 numbered set screws that allow you to set each position independently.

[Ovidio]

I'm really looking forward to this gun.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

I ran a standard S&W Model 28 for quite a few years.

The 28 is the "working" version of the 27, which, in turn, is a .357Mag, built on essentially the same "N" frame as the .44Mag Model 29.

The extra "bulk" soaks up a fair bit of recoil when you are using stiff loads (Hirtenberg factory stuff springs to mind).

A set of Hogue or Pachmayer grips will prevent your hand getting "checkered" to match the wooden grips.

For the odd spot of "bullseye" shooting, I NEVER used .38spl cases in it; simply loaded the wadcutter projectiles in .357 cases and used a slightly bulkier powder.

I like the "L"-framed 686, as it has the robustness to handle a LOT of match shooting and practice and it has excellent sights. The smaller "K" frame guns, like the classic Model 19 will get "loose" a lot quicker than those built on the bigger frames.

These days I just shoot a 9mm 1911 clone; must be getting old, or something.

[Brian Dick]

My 629 Classic Hunter doesn't have the adjustable front sight. All windage and elevation corrections are done with the factory rear sight. I never felt a need for too many bells and whistles as these revolvers in original guise have always been flawless and accurate shooters.