How Can I repair these scratches without refinishing the stock?

[MilsurpMM]

I bought this nice K98 but these scratches on the side of the stock kind of bother me. I am absolutely not considering refinishing the stock, however, is there anyway I can cover up these scratches?

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[Brian Dick]

It looks like varnish to me. I'd strip it with proper varnish remover, clean the wood with clear ammonia and a Scotchbrite pad, let it dry and then oil it with raw linseed. The process will most likely make the majority of the scratches disappear without scraping and sanding.

[MilsurpMM]

It looks like varnish to me. I'd strip it with proper varnish remover, clean the wood with clear ammonia and a Scotchbrite pad, let it dry and then oil it with raw linseed. The process will most likely make the majority of the scratches disappear without scraping and sanding.

The scratches go deep into the wood. They're scratches you can feel. I wish they were only varnish scratches but unfortunately not

[CINDERS]

I would go with Brians suggestion get it back to bare wood by ridding the stock of the bl**dy varnish that bubba likes to plaster on military rifles. Get a damp cloth and mum's hot iron and steam as much of it out as you can won't lift it a great deal but will be an improvement.
As also suggested get to it with some applications of RLO letting it dry for 24 hours between coats the wood will come up a whole lot better looking nicer finish it off with a light coating and soft buff up with bee's wax thats how I have done all my 303 stocks. The stock will then look as it should not like some tarted up bling gun that budda wanted.................
NB for best results the rifle should be stripped down so the stock can be done inside & out.

[Brian Dick]

If you try my process as described, you'll be surprised that the scratches and dings where the grain isn't broken will raise up anyhow. You can go at the deeper ones as Cinders says but not until you get the wood cleaned of the crap varnish and dry.

[mrclark303]

If you try my process as described, you'll be surprised that the scratches and dings where the grain isn't broken will raise up anyhow. You can go at the deeper ones as Cinders says but not until you get the wood cleaned of the crap varnish and dry.

Absolutely concur with Brian and Cinder's. I can't abide varnish on a military rifle.

I think many cases of what appears to be varnish are a historic build up of boiled linseed oil ... It achieved the same result over time.

The process of removing all this accumulated crap, the use of scotchbrite and raw linseed oil, will bring the wood roaring back to life, nourishing and allowing the wood to breath again. The results can be dramatic and very satisfying.

One word of caution, just noticed your stock appears to be the "ersatz" laminated type.

I haven't personally restored one of these before, anything to watch out for with these when restoring guys?

[WarPig1976]

I haven't personally restored one of these before, anything to watch out for with these when restoring guys?

We are talking about a Mauser so more then likely it's an RC. The commies slathered Shellac on their stuff and Denatured Alcohol will strip it with some work, but paint stripper will take it off with much less fuss.
I've used heavy duty stripper on laminates with no problem but haven't let it sit long, no need to. I wouldn't wet it with stripper and wrap it in cellophane for a good soak like you can with solid wood.
Watch using steam as well to raise dents on laminates. That will, without a doubt start to separate the plies!!!

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Just be a little careful with "Scotchbrite" pads.

If they will take the Teflon off a new saucepan and cut though blued surfaces like a grinder, they may be a little TOO much for a varnished, but hopefully un-sanded stock.

Depending whether the offending "gloss" is "Two-Pack", Marine or "domestic" varnish, the technique will vary.

Any of the more interesting solvents that break down "varnishes" should be OK for a slow, but thorough removal, without taking crisp edges (if any survive) on the wood in question.

Enthusiastic application of the hot-air paint stripper gun may appear attractive, but it also may cause some very unattractive distortions at the same time. "Warp Factor Nine" belongs on Star Trek, not your prized woodwork.

The "Two Pack" epoxy type finishes are pretty tough. Long exposure to Acetone will probably break it down, but it will still take a lot of careful scraping with a wooden or plastic spatula to get to the timber. About ten hours contact with liquid acetone will cause the outer gel-coat (coloured resin) on fibreglass mouldings to deteriorate badly. (Think: About a litre of acetone spilled in the transom well of a speed boat and left overnight on a cool evening; NOT pretty!)

Then, because the "solvent" will have penetrated into the timber and started to leached the good stuff out of the wood, systematic re-oiling is vital.

But, done properly, to GOOD furniture, the results easily justify the effort.

[Patrick Chadwick]

I haven't personally restored one of these before, anything to watch out for with these when restoring guys?

Do NOT use acetone or any other powerful solvent. It might affect the resin used for laminating the wood.

Try simple turpentine first, which will first soften and then dissolve any fossilized linseed oil (if that is what it is).
If it is a varnish, then a modern gel-type paint stripper (will remove varnish without damaging the wood. At least, I have not had any problems up to now.
Do NOT use caustic soda, whatever the trade name - oven cleaner or whatever)

I believe the adhesive was an early kind of phenolic resin, which tends to turn reddish. After decrudding, as described above, re-oiling with a slghtly red-tinted stock oil (Sherrels) will probably produce the most satisfying result. Sherrels is basically refined linseed oil plus toner. It seems expensive when you buy a bottle, but a few drops go a long way.

And never forget - the barrel channel must also be treated to equalize stresses in the wood and avoid warping.

[Alex1978]

Is that why the stock on my Nagant looks so bad? It's just build up? Can it be restored without hurting the original finish and value?