Clip pouch for M1 Carbine

[USGI]

Look long enough ?

Too Short!

[painter777]

Maybe try a Bayo band screw that isn't peened for now just to see if threads on band are stripped ?

Gotta Run, Big Storms !!

[USGI]

A fine thread #10 machine screw (10-32) could be tried to see if the threads are stripped in the band. If they are, the threaded tab can be peened (flattened) and then threads chased with a 10-32 tap - might hold. Sarco still has these repro bands for around $15. I've also seen them on eBay, and from a few other vendors. There's an original Type 1 band screw available on eBay right now, but very high priced. I bought my repro from Sarco just for the screw, and then had a friend who needed a swivel for a carbine he was working on - so was able to sell that to offset the price of the screw that I needed. Here's a picture of the the box the band came in, along with pictures of (3) Type I band screws. Left to Right in the screw pictures are: Repro, 1.89M S'G', and 476K Inland. All of these screws are about 7/8" in overall length. - Bob

[szvacek]

I look forward to seeing your stock cleaned.
To me, under the grime appears to be some nice looking Tiger Strip Grain.

Charlie,
I have done some research on cleaning the stock and have found several options. Paint Thinner, Mineral spirits, Boiled linseed oil, orange glow cleaner. Most said to use #0000 steel wool. What would you suggest for cleaning? The stock has got a lot of grim and dirt on it.

Steve.

[deldriver]

Steve, tread lightly if you intend to use any abrasive material, even 0000 steel wool. You have a beautiful crossed cannons acceptance mark there and I'd hate to see it compromised in any way. There are safe ways to clean and oil your stock though, just remember to show us the results! Again, you have a very special carbine there.

[W5USMC]

Charlie,
I have done some research on cleaning the stock and have found several options. Paint Thinner, Mineral spirits, Boiled linseed oil, orange glow cleaner. Most said to use #0000 steel wool. What would you suggest for cleaning? The stock has got a lot of grim and dirt on it.

Steve.

Steve, Don't think it is a good idea to use mineral spirits, paint thinner or anything like that on your stock. Raw linseed oil is the only thing that goes on any of my carbine stocks. Raw not boiled, the oil has to seep into the wood, not just dry on the surface. As deldriver mentioned you have a good looking CC cartouche so steel wool should not even be considered.

[painter777]

Charlie,
I have done some research on cleaning the stock and have found several options. Paint Thinner, Mineral spirits, Boiled linseed oil, orange glow cleaner. Most said to use #0000 steel wool. What would you suggest for cleaning? The stock has got a lot of grim and dirt on it.

Steve.

Steve,
1st know that when you do a deep cleaning of the stock, that afterwards you'll have to re-apply a Raw linseed oil (RLO).
With that said.... keep the steel wool in the cabinet.

Gather up some clean cotton rags, Natural Turpentine, Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) and a SOFT Bristle brush. A pointed parts cleaning brush will also come in handy for the cracks and crevices.

With the metal removed except the Escutheon- Recoil plate screw nut (Do not try to remove) and the L shaped barrel band spring,

1st I use a SOFT bristle brush dipped in Natural Turpentine and brush the entire stock then wipe dry with a rag.
Next go ahead and use a rag wet with the Natural Turpentine to wipe down the grime. Dip the brush for hard to get to spots. Work on small areas at a time by wiping with the damp rag, then use a dry rag to wipe dry. Repeat often until the dry rags show no residue.
You'll notice when wiping with the wet rag that it will temporarily show how colorful the grain will look later after a new RLO application is applied.
After your satisfied that it's clean you can set up to apply a RLO finish to the stock and Hand Guard.
I prefer to set it aside for a day and let it dry out well. It will dry and look as though there is no sheen left from the original finish. But knowing it's clean your now ready to apply the RLO.

Here less is better:
It takes very little RLO to apply a coat, and is best applied by cutting or reducing the RLO with Turpentine to help promote penetration in to the woods pores.
This will be a multiple day ordeal so mix no more than you'll use for each days treatment.
Using a shot glass I mix 3 parts RLO with 1 part Turpentine.
By dipping a rag and using a circular motion I try to push and pull the MIX as far as I can.
Repeating until the wood has been completely wiped.
A small paint brush used for tight spots.
I like to wait ~20 minutes afterward then lightly wipe with the grain to catch any standing MIX off.
Set it aside for 24 hrs, then repeat. Keep this up until you can see that the stock is no longer absorbing the MIX.
When setting it aside I prefer to hang the stock upright.
Learn to give it a look over for any runs an hour or so after you hang it.
Let it soak in and dry for 3-4 days before you reassemble it.
Before reassembly you can buff the finish with a soft/clean cotton rag.

Things to note:
Get the stock clean before trying to put a penetrating RLO finish on it, otherwise penetration is limited and spotty.

Apply RLO multiple times but make sure each application is spread out, you want THIN coats or it will never dry. Really rub it in there.

Have good ventilation and properly dispose of the rags.

Also Note: You'll get plenty of advice as to 'How To' on your question.
I'm passing along this 1 method that's worked for many.

LASTLY: If after deep cleaning you see some type of Heavy Black Staining...
Do Not start the RLO application. If seen, bring it to my attention

Good Luck,

[szvacek]

Thanks Charlie, I'm going with this procedure. Will let you know.

Steve

[painter777]

Steve,
Sometimes it pretty surprising what can be found under the dirt, grime and paint.

[painter777]

Thanks Charlie, I'm going with this procedure. Will let you know.

Steve,
Cleaning:
While scrubbing the wood with the wet Natural Turpentine cotton rags, you could also use one of those little scrubby pads, that the wife uses in the kitchen. They are soft enough so they don't act like a sanding pad on the wood, but aggressive enough to help scrub hard dried up grease, cosmoline, oil and grime off. Just be sure to keep the scrub pad wet with the Natural Turpentine and rinse as needed or wipe clean with dry rags.

The SOFT Bristle brush I mention can and will do pretty much the same thing for you. So it comes down to your choice.

After cleaning:
We'll get a look at the results before moving on to application of the USGI approved finish-
Raw linseed oil.

If Trouble Spots Appear After Cleaning:
We'll take a look and decide what corrects the issue... E.G... Black marks, Dents, Wood-Crack or Grain split found etc.

If you need help pulling all the metal off, or other questions.. just ask.
As I stated in a post above the nut in the bottom of the stock that the Recoil plate screw, screws in to: Do Not try to remove. You can bust out the stock there.
Also the L shaped spring that catches and holds your barrel band in place on the right side can be left on the stock.