Replacement stock on previously sporterized 1903a3 - several questions

[gentwocoog]

First post – thanks for letting join this site.

My dad passed away last year and I inherited his sporterized 1903a3. He took a lot of mule and white tail deer (and maybe an elk or two) with it over the years. While he did a nice job sporterizing the original stock, it doesn’t come close to fitting me (6’3”, 240 lbs, long neck and arms). I’m planning to replace the stock with one from Boyd’s, then bed the action and float the barrel myself.

Current specs are:

• Remington-manufactured in 1942
• Serial number: 41065XX
• Original 2 groove barrel
• Dad replaced the trigger with a Timney (very nice break) and added a scope.

Questions:

• What is the purpose of the “dual stock reinforcing bolts” on the original rifle?
• Are these necessary in an aftermarket stock like Boyd’s?
• From a fit and utility standpoint, am I missing something that might affect restocking the rifle (I’m not very concerned about aesthetics)?
• Does anyone have experience with Boyd’s aftermarket stocks (good or bad)? Any other sources for completely inletted wood stocks for a 1903a3?

Side note - due to his health, dad didn't shoot this rifle for the past 15 years minimum. I took it out of the case, loaded it, and bench shot 1 1/4" groups at 100 yards without tweaking a thing. Even with the 2 groove barrel, this is a fine rifle.

Thanks for your advice – I look forward to providing feedback on the finished project to this board.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[browningautorifle]

Is the barrel original length and sights? I see the scope mount, if original it shouldn't need headspaced. If that's what you mean by space... Pics would be nice too.

[gentwocoog]

Jim - Yes, the barrel is original length and stamped RA 11-43 at the bore. Any original iron sights have been removed. Apologies, I should have said that I would float the barrel in the new stock. Not replacing the barrel and headspacing is not an issue. I'll see about pics when I can.

---------- Post added at 11:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:45 AM ----------

Steve - the original stock is at least 1 1/2" too short (LOP) (I'm a big guy) and I have to raise my face off the stock about an inch to see through the scope. I thought about spacers (I've used these successfully on shotguns) and a big recoil pad, but that doesn't address the scope issue. Also, I have a hard time with straight grips due to some early arthritis issues in my wrists. This is a rifle that should be shot and I want to be able to shoot it effectively and comfortably.

[gentwocoog]

Attachment 113086Attachment 113085Attachment 113087Attachment 113088Attachment 113089

Here are some quick pictures (definitely not a photographer by trade). Dad did a nice job refinishing the original stock, but it just doesn't fit. For him, it was a deer-killing machine. He bought it surplus after his Army discharge at the end of Korea.

LOP is 12 3/4" and I need a minimum of 14". You can see how a cheek weld leaves your eyes 1-2" below the scope sight line.

[ssgross]

that I would float the barrel in the new stock.

Also, if you do go with a full length stock, almost all 1903's like upward pressure in the last inch of the forend "barrel bed" area, and no other contact.

---------- Post added at 01:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------

your pictures show the barrel has been cut down. there should be a slot cut parallel to the bore on top, in front of the date stamp, for the front sight key.

[gentwocoog]

SS - Thanks for your insights re: Boyds and Minelli (I wasn't aware of them and will investigate). It wasn't obvious to me that the barrel had been cut down. Whoever did it did a good job as it isn't noticeable.

Due to the drop in comb (that's a shotgun term, but I think it translates to rifles. I primarily shoot shotguns and pistols) and wrist arthritis issues, I'm going to go with a pistol grip, combed, aftermarket stock.

Do you know if the stock reinforcing bolts (you can see these in my pictures) are needed for an aftermarket stock?

Finally, I've sold off all my father and father-in-law's centerfire rifles except for Dad's 1903a3 and my FIL's 1903a3 (also sporterized, but by a professional). I've shot a lot of deer rifles over the years including some pretty nice ones (FIL had a Weatherby Mark V), but nothing compares to the American Mauser. Those two won't be for sale and will be passed down. Glad you hunt with yours - they're meant to be used.

[browningautorifle]

It wasn't obvious to me that the barrel had been cut down. Whoever did it did a good job as it isn't noticeable.

But see, you can't fit that barrel with iron sights now. The rear sight goes on the dovetail but if you restock with military wood the best you could do is a faux '03A4 type. Also you need a safety as there's a civilian alteration installed.

[ssgross]

I have fitted 2 Boyd's stocks from CMP, and one Minelli from Brownells - so my 2 cents really only applies if you plan to put one of these military stocks on it. If you like it as is, and it's current configuration has sentimental value, than spacers are the way to go. I have even seen some people add blocks inside a slip-on gel recoil pad you can get an extra ~2in, plus the 1in gel this way with no alterations or refinishing.
On both of the Boyds, the fit was in the action was sloppy and required a lot of work, especially around the tang. The bottom of the tang area was cut very low, but the side walls very high and tight to where you could hear the wood creak when snugging the rear action screw. The flat on the receiver didn't even touch wood, and the front trigger screw bushing (attached to trigger guard) made contact with the recoil lug area to the point that the recoil lug didn't event touch wood. This required moving the whole action back quit a bit. The forearms were also very fat to where the lower band would not slide down at all unless the swivel screw was taken out...stock was way too fat to get the screw back in. Needless to say, it was a lot of work to get right.
The Minelli stock fit in the action nearly perfect - could call it drop in. All I needed to do to satisfy my OCD was add a touch more clearance behind the tang. The outside, however, was even fatter than the Boyds stocks...but I'd rather work on profiling the outside, and finishing it however I want, then screw around with poor inletting for hours and hours on end any day.
Just my 2 cents if your plans are to put it back to it's military configuration. I hunt with my 1903a4 Gibbs reproduction. I like carrying my 1903's in the woods way more than anything else.

[ssgross]

I don't think the original 1903 design had stock re-enforcing bolts - they were quickly added after initial testing. You'll find plenty of sporter stocks without them. Another option is to go with a old fashioned leather cheek pad to increase the comb height. Repro's of these are readily available.

[gentwocoog]

First, thank you to everyone who has responded to my questions. Each of you has provided valuable information and I appreciate it. With Art’s response, I think that I have enough info to move forward.

Art – I just realized that there were 2 pages to this thread and am now seeing your response for the first time. My wife refers to me as a SOP (stupid old person) – in this instance, she’s correct.
At first I didn’t know that this site is focused on restorations, but nonetheless, appreciate the advice. You’re correct, I want to use dad’s 03a3 for hunting and target shooting. Just need to restock it to fit my oversized carcass.

Just looked up Richard’s Microfit. It appears that they can provide a 96% inletted stock for an 03a3. Boyd’s does make stocks for these, but their inletting gets lots of poor reviews. Good to have an alternative – I’ll look into Richard’s further.

The sites that I’ve seen show that the action was manufactured in 42, but then again, it’s the internet. You get what you pay for. The barrel was clearly manufactured in Nov 43. As long as it continues to shoot well, it doesn’t matter to me. I didn't know about the safety, trigger guard, and bold mods - thanks. Love the Timney trigger. He also had one on an Argentine Mauser - consistently crisp and light triggers.

No clubbing or bayoneting, just a whitetail or two. I do some woodworking, so this will be a fun project and, as you say, a labor of love. Dad lived to hunt and play golf. While I’m not a golfer, he taught me to shoot rifles and pistols pretty well.

Since this site is focused on military rifles, you might find this interesting. In early summer 1945, dad was 14 and his brother was 12. They lived in rural, desert NM (their town is now named Truth or Consequences) and slept on a screened porch to escape the heat. Early one morning, the “sunlight” woke them up. A minute later, it was dark again. Being boys of that age (we’ve all been that boy), they didn’t think much of it and went back to sleep. That “sunlight” was the first nuke being tested at Trinity Site (White Sands Test Range), about 70 miles and a mountain range to the NE.

Again, thanks for your information and advice. I’ll try to remember to post a picture once the project is complete, probably towards the end of 2021 (if the chicom virus doesn’t get us first).

Glen