Remington M1903 4-1942

[cplstevennorton]

It's actually a Mark one stock. You see the cut for the Pederson device.

With the better pics my first thoughts are it has a very thick old coat of varnish. Sometimes the US Military and even foreign countries used Varnish on stocks to water proof them. Of course it could have been bubba back in the day as well, or any number of scenarios on how it got on there.

I do honestly think if you try to remove it you will have a mess on your hands, and it will end up likely looking worse than it does now.

[browningautorifle]

I do honestly think if you try to remove it you will have a mess on your hands, and it will end up likely looking worse than it does now.

I too expect the originator painted it for a reason. Wonder if it's an accumulation of Greek return parts? We don't have that many floating around here...

[billy67]

I took a steel whool 0000 and I was able to removed a little bit underneath the Tang and I can see what look like the original finished. I think Im gonna take a chance to remove everything

[browningautorifle]

I think Im gonna take a chance to remove everything

Even if you come across wood filler, we can sort that out.

[ssgross]

it's gonna look grand in the end! can't wait to see it.

[usabaker]

I took a steel whool 0000 and I was able to removed a little bit underneath the Tang and I can see what look like the original finished. I think Im gonna take a chance to remove everything

I'd remove it too. Even if there is something hidden under the paint. it can be dealt with correctly. The 97% Alcohol and 0000 steel wool will work magic.

[billy67]

I have removed most of it. I noticed few wood repairs both side at the front recoil lug and one square filling behind the tang. the handguard is from a different colour pattern thats probably the reason someone decided to paint it dark brown to make it even

will try to add some taint to make it match colour and will add few coat of BLO or something else ?

[ssgross]

very nice repair behind the tang...but I don't see evidence of a spit. Is that something someone added for strength at some time?
As you said...some stain to even it out. I've used the birchwood-casey walnut stain. Dilute in water, weak at first. Hand rub, and use a dropper to hand stain to slowly strengthen until you get what you want. Keep in mind it dries a shade darker thank it looks wet, so go until it's just short of blended.
Then, to get that red color to pop, you want Raw linseed oil...you can find it labeled "flaxseed oil" in the organic section of the grocery store. plenty of how to's on this forum for it. After 6-12 months the red undertone will start to show again, and only get better.

Your cross bolts will come out if you want to rust blue the heads to look good. It's easier than most think. To get them out, I wipe a bit of white grease (labeled nlgi-2) in the recess with a q-tip - it won't soak into the wood (in fact, tip from the enfield armorers...light coat between any metal and wood that is likely to never see the light of day for another hundred years). I put a square of soft foam padding topped with a piece of paper under the stock. This and a bit of lube will help keep from splintering on the way out. Once the head starts to peak, put painters tape around it to further reinforce the fibers.

[browningautorifle]

For making light colored wood match, there's no substitute for leather die. You can get it in any color you need and can match things perfectly. The oils don't have the deep color to change light to dark. Then after you match, you could stain and BLO or whatever your finish is going to be. Yes, the light patches are why the paint. You need to strip all that crap off first though. I'd still use a liquid stripper for paint...

[Rick the Librarian]

Curious to know about the rifle itself. Can you reveal the first few digits of the serial number and the barrel date?