Been out of town for a few days but installed the rear swivel before I left. I'm not very proud of the work despite my first attempt at that sort of thing I guess I need to be satisfied. Also, the original parkerized finish was polished and fire blued.
Interesting note - an 18 groove forend is supposed to be arriving but the USPS tracking number already has a package with that number delivered December 14th in Talequahe, Oklahoma....must be the latest USPS Time Space Mail option...
There's is no one locally that can roll the the flat heat shields. I thought there'd be a reasonable chance but no luck, at least not here. One particular prospect with a machine shop that I enjoyed meeting was also a military firearm collector. He understood what was needed but the final cost of everything wasn't doable. I haven't given up yet but regrettably the idea will need to set aside for now.
Why not form it yourself? Unless I misread above, you have 22 or 24 gauge soft steel (.03?). Tape up your barrel, and use it as a form to press it around, light taps with smooth flat hammer on the edges to get them rounded over. I did this to make krag handgaurd clips from 24 gauge. These are just a bit smaller than your job , but it was pretty easy. The soft steel will spring back slightly so it won't be super snug, but that's what you're going for I think. For my clips, I just formed around a narrower part of the old barrel.
When I was a kid, I volunteered at the MAPS air museum in Canton, OH. https://mapsairmuseum.org. I worked on an old SBD Dauntless that seemed to have all its pieces of ribs cracked and needed new ones made. We cut plywood blocks to match the part, then pressed a piece of soft aluminum around the block by pressing into a box of neoprene rubber (old guy new a guy at the rubber factory close by). Perfect every time...cut the holes in it, send it out somewhere to get hardened, and the following weekend installed on the plane. I must of made hundreds of those parts. Website shows it's flying now 26 years later. I would have never thought given the condition it was in when I was working on it. Somewhere inside a wing are many pieces with my initials on it.
Great thread. I've been wanting to do one of these, and searching for the right donor. I Have my eye on one. It's 30 inch, but the crown and last 6.5 inches have some serious pitting...perfect to cut back without feeling bad. I'm praying the price doesn't skyrocket.
Thanks very much for the above suggestions regarding the heat shield. I'm not a machinist but feel confident it can be done. I'd like to try routing a hard wood mold and press some pipe of proper diameter down with a hydraulic press if that makes sense. The original shield I have is 0.30 and the flats are slightly thicker but shouldn't make much difference.
I'm going to plan on visiting a friend that's a gunsmith this weekend and see what he thinks
Thanks again - I'll get back soon as I find out any more.
Out of curiosity I thought it would be interesting to compare photos are of an original M12 Trench Gun Heat Shield and prototype flats that rcathy generously provided.
It looks like the flat is very close to correct size and if contoured correctly would be workable.
BTW the replacement forend arrived today an was installed. The orig mag plug has always been difficult some reason and took a lot of trouble re- inserting it. I'm not sure but the magazine tube might be slightly out of round is all I can determine.
All that remains is the bayonet adapter from east Taylor to complete the conversion. If the flat shields can be rolled and riveted to the original adapter that may be an alternative as well.
The original forend was removed and a vintage correct version found a couple weeks ago on on Gunsinternational added today. The conversion is moving closer.
Also, it occurred to me that if the flat heat shields were rolled and used I think they may need to be somehow contoured to conform to the taper of a commercial barrel ...so that's something that might need to be considered.
I've been trying to find a copy of Joe Poyer's book everywhere but the prices are unrealistic. Probably a wild shot but if anyone has a spare copy they don't need I'll be happy to pay a fair price... .
I think they may need to be somehow contoured to conform to the taper of a commercial barrel
That is why I suggested taping up your barrel, and use it as a form. Grind, sand, then polish the surface of your hammer to a mirror finish and you won't leave any marks. You'll get the main curve just holding it against the barrel and pressing with your hands, and you will only need the hammer to get the edges finished.
I'd suggest going to Home Depot, getting a piece of 22 or 24 gauges sheet for 8$, and practice. You'll be surprised how easy it is.
Also, in the pics I've seen, there are dimples midway down the heat shield, made by a punch from the top and protruding to the underside that you need to make. These dimples keep the shield off the barrel. You can get a set of peening punches (round ball end on a punch) for $15 on amazon. With an appropriate chamfered bushing underneath, you can make them perfect too. If I'm wrong, someone else will kindly correct me so I'll know better too when I do mine
The advice on the above technique is well taken. Knowing myself as I do I'll need to organize the time to prepare. I'm not sure how soon that will be at this point but will maintain communication on anything further. I did talk to a friend yesterday that recently completed his commercial M12 Trench conversion. He mentioned something I found interesting in that the East Taylor M12 adapter didn't fit as well as the M97 adapter which he ended up using. I haven't seen the conversion yet but will this afternoon and I'll try take a few photos of his conversion to post later.
PM
, but it was pretty easy. The soft steel will spring back slightly so it won't be super snug, but that's what you're going for I think. For my clips, I just formed around a narrower part of the old barrel.
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Originally Posted by Madcap
