I ended up bringing home an F.A. Loomis. I negotiated $285 US for it, which was $65 US less than was asked.
It is a 12 gauge and looks like the only thing. Besides a good cleaning, I will need to do is work on the firing pins since they are a bit flattened from the hammer. Here she is
Veteran US Navy Seabees - US Army Corps of Engineers - American Legion Post 0867
" Only two defining forces have offered to die for me. 1.) Jesus Christ 2.) The American G.I. "One died for your soul, the other for your freedom! "
That's going to clean up real nice baker.
Someone's been in it before, as evidenced by some of the buggered screw heads. Perfect timing too as I'm going through my first SxS. Misery loves company. Hollar if you get stuck since I was probably stuck there too. Do be careful though, or quickly you will find yourself contemplating taking on many more of these.
Perfect timing too as I'm going through my first SxS. Misery loves company. Hollar if you get stuck since I was probably stuck there too. Do be careful though, or quickly you will find yourself contemplating taking on many more of these.
Appreciate the office of help, might take you up on that. This SxS is a Black Powder shotgun. A collector of such art told me that the English Black Powder Proofs show it is a post 1887 shotgun 12ga. with a 2 1/2" chamber. I've already been bit my the SxS bug, this is my 3rd I have a Savage and a Baker that need more TLC then this one.
Veteran US Navy Seabees - US Army Corps of Engineers - American Legion Post 0867
" Only two defining forces have offered to die for me. 1.) Jesus Christ 2.) The American G.I. "One died for your soul, the other for your freedom! "
I too have a sxs Baker gun that bubba did a cleaning job on. I figure he did $800+ dollars worth of damage to what was a $500 gun. I think refinishing the twist steel barrel maybe the hardest part
I think refinishing the twist steel barrel maybe the hardest part
not really. The hardest part might just be proper disassembly and reassembly without buggering anything!
I use mark lee's express no. 1, since it rusts instantly with a flame instead of needing a damp box and hours. After prepping, I'm bright to blued in under an hour. The longest part of the process is getting the bench cleared and cleaned off so I have space to do it.
BTW, you can etch after bluing with either ferric acid (easy to get on amazon) or hydrochloric acid (muriatic. it's in every hardware store). Depending on the alloy you are bluing, these will give slightly different results. Many a thread elsewhere in the internet with heated debates as to which to use when. I think there is something definitive written in Howe's "Modern Gunsmithing" book (there is a pdf of the 1940's edition on this site somewhere). I was going to check when I get around to doing my own barrels.
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Originally Posted by ssgross
