Front Guard Screw

[CapnJohn]

I have a Savage Lee Enfield No. 4 Mk.1 and need a screw for the stacking swivel. The one I have has a shank .5 inches long and is too short to thread.

ANY SUGGESTIONS???!!

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[louthepou]

Brian, at BDL ltd?

Springfield Sporters?

[John Sukey (Deceased)]

This may come as a shock, but the ONLY No4 that had a piling swivel (stacking swivel) was the trials model in the 1930's
Now the screw you have for the barrel band is the correct length. The problem is the band, not the screw. It needs to be compressed more to get the screw to thread in. I have sometimes resorted to a pair of vise grips to pull the band together enough have the screw engage the threads.

[Alan de Enfield]

This may come as a shock, but the ONLY No4 that had a piling swivel (stacking swivel) was the trials model in the 1930's
Now the screw you have for the barrel band is the correct length. The problem is the band, not the screw. It needs to be compressed more to get the screw to thread in. I have sometimes resorted to a pair of vise grips to pull the band together enough have the screw engage the threads.

Hints & Tips from EFD's website :

"Extra Tips

Having removed some wood, keep the rifle in its normal upright working position and GENTLY tap down on the front band to ensure it is bedding down in the cut you have made for it. Use plastic or soft wood as a pad on the band. If you must use "G" cramps to apply a bit of side pressure to the band, again use soft packing. DON'T try and use Mole Grips (vise grips) on the band screw lugs to bring them together, they will permanently FUBAR** the band and force the lugs out of alignment. This advice is offered with the benefit of experience!

* Suggested technique: Using a fine dovetail saw cut the wood inside the scribed lines. Then remove some wood with a very sharp chisel. Use the side of a rectangular file to ensure the surfaces are smooth and square.

** Translation = "distort, mangle or generally render useless".

[RJW NZ]

guilty too...lol, good to hear the word mole grips again..

[John Sukey (Deceased)]

Well that's nice, but the front band on a No4 isn't imbedded in wood, but rather wrapped around the metal bits at the end of the forend and front handguard. Remember in the original post that a "stacking swivel" was mentioned? If a stacking (piling) swivel was in use, it would be on the FRONT barrel band, NOT the mid barrel band.

Obviously someone is incompetent in the use of "mole grips" if they "FUBAR "the lugs out of alignment

[Peter Laidler]

There's NO front band John and others. It's the BAND, upper or BAND lower. If it's the upper end that won't allow the band to meet and clamp, then make off the protruding wood at the top of the fore-end from the lower band forwards.

Now the upper handguard will seat lower on the fore-end and the band will close tighter allowing the screw to clamp it together and tight.

Remember. NO bodgery is permitted

[John Sukey (Deceased)]

Well, Peter it's a matter of British vs Ameriican. A upper band is still the same thing as a front barrel band. just as "lift" is still an elevator and a charger is still a "stripper clip"

Again, we are looking at a triumph of craftsmanship over engineering, ie; hand fitting bits instead of having them interchangeable. In any case, the person who started the thread has the correct screw. I have also noted that there is a difference in those "upper bands" since some are made of thicker material than others, making it harder to get them properly lined up.

[Peter Laidler]

I know exactly what you're saying John. It's us Brits talking a foreign language to you wild colonial and antipodean foreigners.....or is that the other way round? But it's confusing for Armourers (and there are a few more Armourers than you think read these threads.....) who can't understand what a king screw is or the top band.

Anyway, I hope that Capt Johns querie has been answered, by those foreign chaps in England!

[Edward Horton]

If you think that’s bad just remember a Canadian Armourer has to be able to speak British English, American English, Canadian English and French.




At least some things do not require any translations