Ah, it's cylinder end float that you're on about.............. Here is how we did it. It might not be as you'd all like it to be but here goes. The ONLY thing that matters with the action of the revolver is that it is tight the moment that it is fired. So this is the test that you'll see all Armourers do. Fire off the revolver, regardless of whether it's a Mk1 or 1* or 1**. Allow the hammer to roll forwards under control with your left hand and allow the hammer to drop fully down as if firing a cartridge AND KEEP YOUR RIGHT TRIGGER FINGER FIRMLY SQUEEZED ON THE TRIGGER. NOW is the time to check the cylinder gap, the pokering of the cylinders (rotary side play) and end float of the cylinder that seems to be concerning us. You won't have the pokering gauges or the slip gauges but you will have the best gauges of all.......... sensitive finger tips and eyes. The cylinder should be held firmly between the pawl and cylinder stop AND fully forwards between the pawl and bearing surface at the front of the cylinder spindle.
There............ now you're all Enfield revolver specialists!
I forgot to say, but any end float on the cylinder when it's in its 'loose' position is really academic unless it's totally ridiculous of course. This is because the end float is governed by the cylinder cam engaging in the radial groove on the cylinder sleeve (the bit that slides over the cylinder axis). And as it is deliberately a loose fit to allow the cylinder to be removed and run freely, that's how it's designed