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thank you all. Is it regular the fact that once fitted fore end, there's some clearence between wood and receiver if i try to spin the fore end?
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06-02-2011 01:31 PM
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Ah, great to see an old fashioned Armourer at work again. Just like we used to do 'em - week in, week out, weeks at a time on the test range, bruised shoulders and torn elbows. A pleasure to see TBone and I hope that it's an inspiration for others
Has anyone got rid of their Ishy screw yet? Let's all see the result...., but only if it's GOOD!
Had a go at the 'Ishy' problem, those screws, they look so awful, unlike the women that come out of India.
Put a 3/16" brass threaded rod through the hole and an enfield bayonet nut on either end countersunk into the wood, looks great and matches the reinforcing strip and pin at the back of the fore stock.
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Copper Drawers

Originally Posted by
crsoll
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Had a go at the 'Ishy' problem, those screws, they look so awful, unlike the women that come out of India.
Put a 3/16" brass threaded rod through the hole and an enfield bayonet nut on either end countersunk into the wood, looks great and matches the reinforcing strip and pin at the back of the fore stock.
I have seen a few SMLE's that have pieces of copper screwed to the drawers face where you have used timber to repair. Was this just a target rifle solution?
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Originally Posted by
martins8589
I have seen a few SMLE's that have pieces of copper screwed to the drawers face where you have used timber to repair. Was this just a target rifle solution?
No; in the case of Lithgow
rifles using Coachwood fore-ends this was standard factory installation.
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The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to Maxwell Smart For This Useful Post:
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Sorry to be a party pooper CR (your thread 22) It looks cra.........., er......., daft. For several reasons! It's not mechanically effective, not as good or effective as the original UK
Military designed 'ishy screw' and it's not authentic plus a few other reasons. Better to just fix it properly, drill out, glue, peg and plug and be done with it. Ir leave the screw. Both of which are EMER approved methods of frixing!
Just my opinion I hasten to add, based on nothing more than experience on the bench
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