If you want some new replacement screws let me know as they are still available from model engineer suppliers over here. I have plenty.
I have re-fitted quite a lot of pads to 4T's over the years. I use fryolux solder paste. It's viscous like thick custard & contains the finely divided solder as well as the flux. I tin the milled out panel for the front pad, & the area over which the rear pad sits, carefully. I also tin the mating faces of the pads. It is quite easily done using the fryolux, heating until it melts & the solder/flux goes a brown/golden colour. Wipe off the 'gold bits' carefully using a cotton rag (no synthetic materials!), leaving the relevant areas tinned & a bright silver colour (they must be clean & grease free before you start). I tin the screws too, carefully wiping off all surplus solder & flux. You can then carefully place the pads in position (one at a time), locate the screws, & carefully warm everything up just enough for the solder to melt. At this point you can pinch up the screws. The solder will soon solidify & lock everything solid. I make several passes over each screw until it is quite tight - but remember to stop before you knacker the screw slot!
The front pad screws may well protrude through into the bolt guideway, but you can shorten them to approximately right length beforehand & then trim off any excess when you've finished the soldering. H&H passed a milling cutter along the guideway to trim off the screw ends, but if you are careful a file will work satisfactorily. You may need to retouch the finish a little afterwards. It is also important not to over do it with the heat in case you mess with the heat treatment.
Note I use the word 'carefully' a lot!
Peter may well be able to suggest better means of doing this, so if he chips in read his post not mine.
Or send the rifle to Brian.......!