Mosin Nagant Sniper info..

[bigduke6]

As my eyes are getting a bit older am struggling at times with open sights, mainly in bad lighting, so I,m looking towards scopes on the Milsursps in the future, been looking at adding a Nagant to my hoard but as the Nagant sniper versions can still be bought without braking the bank here in the (UK) is there anything I should be looking for on a sniper version ?

Information

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[Patrick Chadwick]

A great deal of useful information can be found here: http://www.mosinnagant.net/sniper%20section/default.asp

Since PU scopes were still being made in masses long after the war, faked-up mixmaster snipers abound. No problem, they also shoot well, just don't pay a "collector's surcharge" for some fairy story! Don't go by numbers and stamps or the woodwork, they are too easy to fake. Go for the genuine long bolt handle on a bolt that matches the number on the receiver. Real snipers have a long, turned down bolt handle, properly numbered to the rifle. Not a normal handle that has been bent, or visibly cut and welded! That is something that the usual creative stamp artist cannot duplicate.

The PU scope is, of course, primitive by modern standards, the main problem being visual: where, exactly, is the tip of the sight "blade"? But even so, "Ivan the Terrible" - my 1943 vintage 91/30 (terrible refers to its external appearance, not its performance!) will slot everything into the 10 at 100 meters. Which I certainly cannot achieve with iron sights. With a modern scope fitted, it is a serious threat to the 10X. Look for 1 MOA grouping after applying the scope adjustment tips given on the Mosin-Nagant site. But to achieve this, don't waste your time on surplus ammo, even if it's being given away.


Patrick

[Gun Surfer]

Patrick, that is very helpful. Some questions maybe you can address.

What should a mixmaster sniper vs a true original sniper cost range be? I.e. what cost range should one be prepared to pay for a replica vs an original.

Do you have any good load or powder & bullet suggestions for better accuracy? Thanks!

[bigduke6]

Thanks Patrick,

If they can hit the 10 ring then its ok with me, will have a good look and see whats on the market.

[Patrick Chadwick]

What should a mixmaster sniper vs a true original sniper cost range be? I.e. what cost range should one be prepared to pay for a replica vs an original.

First, a mild correction. The mixmasters are not replicas, which would mean newly made parts that copy an original. Those I have seen were made up with original parts, and in fact, being post-war, may be in far better condition than the typical wartime production. What you are not getting with the later product is the "been there, done that" flavor. Which, over here, can roughly double the price from 250-350 for the mixmaster to 500-700 for the "Stalingrad look & feel".

As to ammo, I do not post reloading recommendations. There are enough reloading manuals around from serious companies who have a legal team to defend themselves from any claims if a reloader does something stupid. For a private person, merely defending yourself against a frivolous claim from some Bubba who double-loaded his gun could be ruinous. But from personal experience I can recommend the "7,62 Russian Match" from Norma, which is loaded with 168gn Sierra bullets. There is no point in feeding an M91/30 sniper with junk ammo - you want to test the rifle, not the ammunition!


Patrick

[Aragorn243]

A replica sniper rifle in the US tends to go for $450-$550 while the real deal is in the $800-$1000 range. Trouble is, unless you know exactly what you are looking for, they are difficult to tell apart sometimes. Genuine sniper rifles were selected for their accuracy. They often but not always had the serial number of the scope engraved or stamped onto the receiver ring. This being missing does not mean the rifle is not legit. There are differences in the scopes, round screw heads verses flat screw heads, etc.

One consideration which I discovered to my great disappointment. PU scopes have a very different eye relief than "normal" scopes. I worked up a nice rebuild of an ex-sniper with a repro scope and discovered that I have difficulty shooting it due to the deterioration of my near vision. Age is catching up with me and bifocals are in my near future. In any case, I can't see in focus unless I remove my glasses. Then I can see just fine but I can't see anything else. Love the rifle though, disappointed in that it will strictly be a range gun. I had hoped to take it hunting but that's out with the eye/glasses problem.

[Patrick Chadwick]

A replica sniper rifle in the US tends to go for $450-$550 while the real deal is in the $800-$1000 range.

That seems to match the range I quoted (which was, of course, in euros).

In any case, I can't see in focus unless I remove my glasses. Then I can see just fine but I can't see anything else.

Me too! That's why I now have my glasses on a string round my neck. But as I now need different glasses for driving, reading and shooting, its getting a bit crowded, and the things get tangled up...

[Gun Surfer]

"As to ammo, I do not post reloading recommendations." I understand. I was more wanting some info on best likely powder and bullet combinations without the loads, which I can figure out and work up from my manuals. Thanks for the response.

[erno86]

I'm not an expert on M91-30 sniper history, but you want to look for a rifle that has a dull colored finish, with patterns in the wood stock that suggests the camoflage of a tiger shark. {that's what my IZZY-1943, M91-30 sniper rifle looks like} In each imported crate of 100, M91-30's, possibly 3 of them are sniper's, converted back to infantry ---but with the two drill holes, for the scope mount, drilled into the left side of the reciever.

On top of the barrel in front of the reciever you will see the factory marking's, and year that the rifle was made. On the left side of the barrel in front of the reciever, you will see the new laser etched marking's of the importer such as Century Arms. Just to the left and below of the laser etching's, you will see an old looking serial number that has been stamped out buy a thin single chisel mark across the center of the numbers. This rifle was picked for it's accuracy, stamped with that number, made into a sniper, and converted back to an infantry rifle, when the single chisel mark was made across the serial number. The number and the chisel mark will not look new.

[Patrick Chadwick]

with patterns in the wood stock that suggests the camoflage of a tiger shark. {that's what my IZZY-1943, M91-30 sniper rifle looks like}

A tiger shark that has been dunked in shellac, of course!