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Thread: Rear Ribbed Handguard #4 Mark 1

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    Rear Ribbed Handguard #4 Mark 1

    Hello, the rifle I own has a crack running along the center of the rear handguard. I found the part at Numrich for a reasonable price. Can an inexperienced woodworker replace this part without ruining the rifle. I will include a couple pictures but it is hard to see the crack. Is this something I should live with or try to repair.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    If it was mine, I'd try to repair it. In this case there's no forces acting on the wood during firing, so repairing it is just to stop the crack from extending and the wood from splitting in two. In this case I'd use superglue [cyanoacrylate glue], but I'd be sure to get the liquid stuff, not the gel. Should cost about $5 and widely available; any brand will do.
    I'd glue it from the outside, so first I'd put a piece of tape along the crack on the inside so the glue doesn't drip through. Then I'd run a very small line of glue down the crack, so it all runs in and disappears.
    The glue sets in minutes, but to be safe I'd leave it perhaps an hour, and then repeat the process each hour [or less frequently] until it was obvious that the crack was completely solid.
    The trick is not to try to fill it all at once, but to let the glue soak in and slowly build up in solid layers in the crack. In a crack which is as narrow as this I would neither prise open, nor clamp close, the crack while gluing.

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    No tittering now :

    For a 'non load' area I have found that Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure does a good job as a sealer and an adhesive to stop cracks 'growing'
    I first used it on the boat to stop water ingress around window seals but then found it was also an adhesive


    What is Captain Tolley? Captain Tolley’s is a liquid sealant/adhesive with exceptional penetrating properties. Formulated to be thinner than water, it uses capillary action to penetrate deep INSIDE the narrowest of surfaces before making a firm yet flexible CLEAR waterproof seal. It’s perfect for TRACING and sealing leaks caused by hairline cracks. Being water-based it follows the route water would take, sealing even fissures that are hidden to the eye. It’s also QUICK and EASY to use. As the sealant can penetrate deep into structures there’s no need to take items apart or put them back together.
    What can I use it for? In the HOME: Fix rainwater leaks in flat roofs, masonry and joinery. In the bathroom and kitchen seal sinks, shower trays, worktop joints, inset sink surrounds and such like. Make in situ repairs to veneers, wood joints, leaded windows, ceramics (teapots, bowls etc.) as well as to items exposed to the elements such as outdoor lamps.


    http://www.gaelforcemarine.co.uk/Ima...spec_sheet.pdf
    Last edited by Alan de Enfield; 07-02-2020 at 12:45 PM.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Thanks for the information. Is there an article for removing this piece of wood? I see two bands on the wood, is this all I remove to take off the handguard? Thanks again.

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    Remove sling bow and screw from the forestock band. Spread band bow and move forward. Rear handguard can be rotated up and out. Any gluing near the barrel should include aluminum foil on the barrel to protect it from being glued to the handguard.

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    Excellent, thanks. Cheers

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