Bolt head for Lithgow #1 rifle

[mhb]

I need a bolt head to replace that currently installed in my rifle - the headspace currently measures .076", which is longer than the 'NO GO' specification. In order to bring the headspace within the specified range (and as close as possible to the minimum), I need a bolt head which measures ca. .641" from the rear surface which contacts the bolt body to the face of the bolt head - any bolt head which measures within plus-or-minus .003" of that length would be acceptable.
Does anyone have a spare that falls within that range, or can anyone point me to a likely source for one?
I am aware that over-long headspace is not necessarily a safety issue, and that it can be compensated-for in fireforming the brass, but still want to bring the rifle's headspace within the specified range, to avoid potential problems.

Thanks;

mhb - Mike

Information

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[browningautorifle]

I'd think a WTB would be more to the point, there are guys here with pocket fulls of them...

[CINDERS]

Others may chime in as its not just a drop in fit putting another bolt head on the bolt to bring it up to spec the thrust has to be taken evenly by the other bearing surfaces of the bolt which may require judicious hand fitting by a person familiar with the lee enfields, I am not having a go at yourself just saying about the intricacies of fitting a bolt head correctly. There are threads on the matter from the armourers here.
I probably have one but we are forbidden to export gun parts besides its risky and not worth the hassles from the boys in blue or customs having learnt the hard way and was only saved by a good friend in the force..........!

[Brian Dick]

Buying one bolt head that's the specified length is a total crap shoot. There are soooo many factors involved fitting bolt heads. Please read Peter Laidler's article on bolt fitting here and you'll see what I mean. This is why I refuse to sell bolt heads anymore. I will fit them if someone is in need but only to MoD specifications. I NEVER use SAAMI specifications. They are too tight and there's no supply of long bolt heads to be had because so many have upgraded the headspace on their rifles needlessly.

[mhb]

Buying one bolt head that's the specified length is a total crap shoot. There are soooo many factors involved fitting bolt heads. Please read Peter Laidler's article on bolt fitting here and you'll see what I mean. This is why I refuse to sell bolt heads anymore. I will fit them if someone is in need but only to MoD specifications. I NEVER use SAAMI specifications. They are too tight and there's no supply of long bolt heads to be had because so many have upgraded the headspace on their rifles needlessly.

I have studied-up all the pertinent references I could find, and am aware that there is more to the process than just installing a new bolt head - BUT: as I do not have a selection of spare bolt bodies or heads, and as I have only one #1 rifle - the one I wish to 'optimize', I cannot think of any other economically viable approach.
Are you able to provide, say, a new Australian bolt body and bolt head, properly timed, which I can use as a basis for the project?
Can you explain the problem with any disparity between minimum and maximum headspace measurements as stated in the MOD and SAAMI specifications - it is my understanding that the 'GO" dimension (.064") is the same in both cases?

Thanks;

mhb - Mike

[30Three]

I have recently been through this with my No1MkIII*.
Initially I bought a couple of unused bolt heads to find one that would improve the head space; which was originally bang on the .074" gauge. While that is still considered safe; my project was to optimise the rifle for competition shooting as well as helping case life when reloading.
One of the problems I encountered with the bolt head that appeared to be the correct length; was that it would not clock in. It was stopping before getting to the vertical. Machining it would have lost the length advantage, so no point.
Eventually I was advised by a UK gunsmith to replace the bolt assembly. I bought an unused bolt body and found luckily that my original bolt head clocked in perfectly and the head space was down well below 0,70" prior to mating bolt lugs. Having carefully mated the bolt lugs very carefully to get even contact on both; the end result is that the bolt will not quite close on the 0.070" gauge so over 0,004" improvement on headspace.
However I would advise the best option is to get a professional to do it because in the USA it's probably easier to find one. There are no Enfield specialists in France, which is why I decided to do it myself.

[mhb]

Thanks for sharing your experience!
Having taken advantage of all the information on the issues involved with fitting-up and adjusting a #1 bolt, available from many sources, I feel that I have enough understanding of the process to undertake it.
Your advice about seeking-out an expert is undoubtedly good, but, while lacking in-depth experience with the Lee-Enfield rifles, I do qualify (by prior profession) as an expert in riflesmithing, and am reasonably confident I can carry out the work successsfully, given the needed parts.

mhb - MIke

[Brian Dick]

Mike,

I have a small supply of SMLE and No.4 bolt heads, both used and nos to select from. I don't have any new Australian bolt bodies. I'm not an expert on anything. I've had much help working on Lee Enfields over the past 20+ years from folks much more knowledgeable than I. I can tell you the only thing the same about SAAMI and MoD specifications is the GO gauge at .064. I've just measured my few remaining unfitted long bolt heads and they are all .639 so they won't help get you where you want to go anyhow. A new bolt body may help if you can find and fit one. If your rifle fails the .074 No Go gauge with a .641 bolt head installed, may I suggest that there may be something else amiss with the rifle body, (receiver). Possibly the hardening in the locking recesses is worn through. What type gauges are you using to check it?

Brian

[mhb]

Mike,

I have a small supply of SMLE and No.4 bolt heads, both used and nos to select from. I don't have any new Australian bolt bodies. I'm not an expert on anything. I've had much help working on Lee Enfields over the past 20+ years from folks much more knowledgeable than I. I can tell you the only thing the same about SAAMI and MoD specifications is the GO gauge at .064. I've just measured my few remaining unfitted long bolt heads and they are all .639 so they won't help get you where you want to go anyhow. A new bolt body may help if you can find and fit one. If your rifle fails the .074 No Go gauge with a .641 bolt head installed, may I suggest that there may be something else amiss with the rifle body, (receiver). Possibly the hardening in the locking recesses is worn through. What type gauges are you using to check it?

Brian

If I could acquire a new Aussie bolt body from Springfield Sporters (and they do have them), and send it to you, would you be willing to undertake to select the longest suitable bolthead (which times properly) you can find among your assortment? It is likely that such a combination would substantially improve the headspace in my rifle, and, should it prove too long, I can shorten the bolt head as needed. I did ask Springfield Sporters whether they would be willing to select and time one of their bolt heads to a new Aussie bolt body, but they have not answered my query, and initially said they do not do any gunsmithing, though I can't think why they couldn't thread a few bolt heads into a bolt body or bodies to see whether any combination of them times correctly.
In the process of working-over this rifle, I have inspected the lug seats in the receiver, and they do not appear deformed or excessively worn, so it seems that the receiver, per-se, is not the cause of the excess headspace issue.
I have Clymer headspace gauges of .064" and .067", and a suitable assortment of shim stock to be sure of the headspace measurement.

Thanks;

mhb - MIke

[browningautorifle]

It's not by chance a DP rifle is it?