M47C sportster recovery to T status?

[ArtioZen]

Nice rifle Ridolpho! Cant wait to see and read more about its tweaking and range reports! I am hoping to take mine to the range this weekend also

Peter - thanks for the scope tip / link - a truly wonderous item! I am still saving for an example and would only dream of an example such as this. I will keep at it!

[Ridolpho]

I1A1: That replica of mine is fun to shoot but it doesn't even come close to a real one like yours! Thanks for an entertaining thread and be sure to show us how your rifle evolves as you continue to work on it. My plans to go shooting this weekend may have to change as a nasty blizzard just blew in and dumped a pile of snow and my range is out west of Calgary near the mountains.

Ridolpho

[ArtioZen]

After almost 3 months of ownership…I got to shoot the M47C sportsTer today! I had the obligatory honey-dos, and so was running a little late (I wanted to shoot two No4’s – but ended up just giving the “T” a workout until dusk).

The local temps were 53 degrees F when I drove out and naturally dropped as the day wore on – I could see my own breath when I shot the 100yd targets, it was very nearly windless – perfect for zeroing a scope at range. Seated at a bench, front hand on blocks holding guard, wrapped in sling (fore and butt locations).

I have added a 1.5" butt pad to the stock butt plate to gain a little length and comfort...the stock and cheek piece fee great and allow a great weld and eye relief. I had 5 boxes of S&B 155grain FMJ on board and 1” squared targets set at 25, 50 and 100yds, with 2 additional bull’s-eye targets at 100. The range also has 18” steel square plates hanging at 200 yds and also a 12” steel circle which I normally do not mess with….normally!

Sooo starting at 25 yards – I shot groups 1 through 3 with two rounds each making gross adjustments…Then “group 4” – POA center of upper left diamond – one round – bull’s-eye! So my 25 yard zero is 12 minutes depressed and 5 minutes left of the scopes datum settings (which match the visual columniation BTW).

So on to 50 yards – I shot “group 5” – POA center of target DC – and then adjusted (Elevated) the POA by ¾ minute – (3 clicks) and then shot “group 6”

On to 100 yards – “group 7” – POA center of lower diamond - four round group 3” high – around center - Elevated the POA by 1minute – (4 clicks)

“group 7” – POA center of lower diamond – six round group – later found to be 1.5MOA my best performance of the day and wear and tear about to start ramping up!

Loving all the good hits and positive adjustments, doing a little math and getting somewhere! The rifle is cycling nicely – I can observe heat shimmer through the scope after each round – gotta fix that naked fore end…the rubber butt recoil pad is nice (I had shoulder surgery and am usually now comfortable with 20-30 shots in a session – the butt pad should extend that significantly) – but the rifle jumps out of weld with each shot (pad rebound!) – I think it may effect my follow through – will try again with and without the pad to study its impact on group size / location.

The next two shots ring the 18inch square plate and the 12inch circular plate at 200 yards with dead center POAs.

I then shot a 5 round group at the first bulls-eye target holding the cross hares at BDC of the X ring (marked with “scope”) – score 3 x “9” and 2 x “8” – the bulls-eye eludes me! Group is later found to be 2.7 MOA .

So then I took the scope off, remove and safely stow the shims, flip up the battle sight, adjust it down as far as it will go and then up one click – just a shade below the 200yd setting.

Shoot and find 25, 50 and 100 yd targets, ring 18” plate at 200 and then shoot the second bull’s-eye target at 100yds (marked battle sight) – holding the font blade at just below center (like the dot on an “i”) – Scored an X ring! 1 x “9” ,2 x “8” and a “6” – boo! Later found to be just at 3.6 MOA group. I am going to ease the front blade slightly to the left (two MOA)…if I can...or shade!

I finish the day with the scope and shims back in – shoot “group 9” at 100 yards, ring the 18 steel and 12 steel at 200 yards.

The only stress – 2 FtF’s – low striker force (will super clean the bolt) and I “pulled” one round – make em all count! Cleaning produced a lot more copper residue – the cleaning will continue!

So having got my field notes and groups analyzed for location vs PO my proposed distance / scope zero settings to start out next time are:
25 yds = Datum – 12MOA depression, 5MOA left
50 yds = Datum – 10.25MOA depression, 6 MOA left
100 yds = Datum – 9.5MOA depression, 6.5MOA left

The drifting Windage numbers indicating remaining scope mount error – I think I can eat into that with an additional 0.003” thick shim.

I’ll keep shooting the S&B 155grain FMJ to refine the cloud location and then drop into my remaining ’51 Kynoch Mk7 to attempt to puncture the orange stickers….hopefully from a prone position…

Now time to inspect a new (to me) PH Service Rifle Score Book – revision 13, completed with competition entries and a Bisley 1947 competition program….Rule Britannia!

[jmoore]

I’ll keep shooting the S&B 155grain FMJ to refine the cloud location and then drop into my remaining ’51 Kynoch Mk7 to

Likely you will find that the POI of the Mk.7 ball will be considerably different than the lighter bulleted S&B load. Probably much higher at 100 yds.

Nice to have range temps above freezing this time of year! I was out Friday in the rain at the pistol range.

[ArtioZen]

Thx jmoore! It was a great afternoon for the range...my son was plinking next to me with our No2Mk4 I will study and record any diference in the Mk7 flight - thx forthe comment. I have been wanting to find some HPX ammo like you used in last years range reports. The combination of all 3 types could be the basis of a write-up! I dont mind the sold frozen ground for prone eithr - just not squishy and wet!

[jmoore]

Oddly enough, it seems that the CMP gets Greek .303 every once in a while. I guess it gets mixed in with the .30 M2 stuff.

[ArtioZen]

Mrs Breakdown is off all weekend with friends; kids have had a few activities to wear them out (pinewood derby). I got a couple of hours to get more familiar with the T.

Having read up on all kinds of sources for the front end swap and having procured, inspected and oiled all the necessary parts - its was time to lay them all out with the necessary tools for surgery.

The original upper rear guard shows the feint H&H penciled serial number for the rifle. No other marks were discernable (some may be present but no form recognized - may as well be dents!).

The lower HG literally dropped off - having distinct witnesses for good draws and knox bedding it shows a Bubba fore-bearing including mastic - the remnants of which were delicately removed from the barrel.

jmoore - please find photo including the stamped letter X on the upper left HG wall that you referred to in another post (can't say I noticed it before removing the HG).

I got a good look at al the barrel and receiver stamps - I did take photos but nothing too great so did not share them...another time...I did get a decent photo of the front sight assembly wthout the guard.

The replacement front end is a NOS set from Morris & Co with simple M codes on the outside and a nice name stamp inside the upper rear HG.

The new "draws" were very close and I ended up only shaving them down by a fraction of NK per Peter's guidance. Repeated trial and adjust fitting found the HG getting much closer and needing deliberate taps with a block of wood to get on and off. The barrel sits in the channel nice and evenly - the front bearing pressure is light - will go back in later and measure it with a scale. The rest of he HG and clamps fitted up deliberately and with great fit - they really were meant for each other. I had to do a little adjusting to get the trigger guard in without it rocking!

I had a few minutes left to handle it, take a few photos and admire it, lightly oil it some more - now a very different looking beast! No longer a sportster (sorry Bubba) - can’t wait to shoot it again and see how the new forend and bedding settles inAttachment 40038Attachment 40039Attachment 40040Attachment 40041!

Overall a great weekend

[jmoore]

That's the mark, exactly. Have never seen it on a non-"T". But not all No.4 Mk.I(T) rifles have it.

[Bindi2]

Put your sling on the right way round before the Drill Sargent gets you. Grips out flat base of rivet woodside.

[ArtioZen]

Jmoore (and others) - who added the mark and what was its significance? (interested in theory through to fact - whatever is out there).

Bindi - Sir, yes sir! Flick, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, swish. Now looking for other slings to put on correctly or otherwise!