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Thread: Eddystone M1917 Questions?

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  1. #11
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    Photos

    Here are two showing the glossy nature of tthe finish. I'S NOT AN OILED FINISH. I'm not sure if it's actually varnish, but it is thick. The bands do not fit without scraping some off. I had to buy new bands becuase the previous owner crossed the threads getting them on.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Probably is varnish or shellac. No biggy though, just strip it completely and use a liquid strip, any of the furniture strippers and wipe it down as you go. Let the wood dry completely before oil and assembly. These guys usually varnish everything, the metal may have a coat too...so be aware.
    Regards, Jim

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    I've got to try & remove the varnish, rifles just look better with oiled stocks.

    A big thanks for everone's help. Also, I've ordered parts to replace the spring and folllower to see if it helps with the functional problem.

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    I use spray on Citristrip. A large can will do three stocks without trouble. Easy to use and water soluble, smells like oranges. It doesn't affect the metal at all so I usually leave the butt plates and band keepers on. Spray it on, wait 20 minutes and wash it off while scrubbing with a nylon scrub brush. Might take a second coat which can be done right away. Stocks usually dry out in an hour or two but I let them sit longer than that to make sure the interior is also dry before putting the oil on. I usually put one heavy coating of oil on with a rag and after that first one soaks in, put a couple more coats on rubbing it in with a finger. Walnut stocks like on a 1917 usually don't need more than two or three coats. Other woods usually take more, up to six, and Nagant stocks I've put 20 on before being satisfied with the look.

    I generally use the citristrip in the bathtub. Hot water usually works better than cold for cleaning. I have also used the hose on the backyard if it appeared it was going to make a huge mess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aragorn243 View Post
    Citristrip
    That stuff sounds good. I use Circa 1850 furniture stripper. You'd want to strip the rifle to parts and then apply it with a stiff brush or coarse steel wool. It will blister the varnish off right away and then you need to rinse it off. It takes a bit of time to dry the wood after... I've used it on everything from guns stocks to furniture so I can vouch for it's effect and end results too.
    Regards, Jim

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    I've tried a lot of finish strippers over the years and nothing has come close to citristrip. It is so easy to apply and get off. I can strip a stock and have it drying in less than an hour. Only project I did with it that gave me trouble was the chest of drawers I got over the summer. That took 4 treatments and scrubbing in between each one. Not sure what was on it but it was 100 years old and very thick.

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  10. #17
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    I'll have to look around here for it. Not sure we have that here...
    Regards, Jim

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    It also comes in a brush on form. I tried that first as it was cheaper but the spray cans work a lot better. You get a uniform coverage.

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    Who carries it?

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    Citristrip will work very well. Apply a thick coat with a brush, and wait a half hour. Remove it with a course rag or old towel or light rubbing with medium steel wool. Do not put the wood in a water bath -- it's not good for the wood and raises the grain. Stay away from sandpaper on the finish.

    If there are dark/dirty spots on the wood, rub with fine steel wool lubricated in BLOicon and mineral spirits or turpentine. Apply sufficient BLOicon to saturate the wood, then rub it all off completely and rub hard with a cloth to heat the surface a bit, which will cause the BLO to seal.

    Then apply a couple of thin coats of Tung Oil with a piece of your lady's nylon stocking, which will not leave any lint on the surface. Use just enough tung oil to give a very light satin finish, but not so much as to leave a heavy gloss. If it gets a little glossy in spots, use a good wax, like Briwax, applied with very fine steel wool, then rub off, leaving a nice satin finish that will not turn brown or darken over the years like untreated BLO. Tung oil is a much better finish for wood than just BLO with better water resistant and fungus resistant qualities.
    Last edited by Seaspriter; 09-24-2015 at 11:17 PM.

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