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Legacy Member
When someone swages something it's usually pretty obvious. I'm sure that the only other word for a swage is a bodge. It is a bit like that other well known bodge of 'ring punching'. They're a quick fix but nothing permanent and doomed to fail, quickly. Mechanical instructions try to make it sound technical using words like '.....gently swage the end to prevent.........'.
I'm not sure how you would swage a No1/SMLE body locking surfaces especially the inner/left hand side one!
Anyone could try to swage the locking surfaces but I can tell you that Brian definately wouldn't - and nor should you or anyone you know!
6 pages spent on this rifle that has achieved nothing apart from some 'new' wood. I suggest that it's time to let an expert assess it.
Thank you. I see no evidence of swaging, and now I understand that you wouldn't recommend it.
I get the point on not touching this thread until I have made some headway with the rifle.
Thank you for your help.
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04-18-2016 02:08 PM
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Advisory Panel
You better turn that lower band around before you get yelled at my someone more prominent! Screw heads face left lad!
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Legacy Member
Oops! Will do that. I was feeling very disappointed by the re-warped forestock and my mind went blank.
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It looks very nice aesthetically. Well done
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Legacy Member
It looks very nice aesthetically. Well done
Thank you very much, sir. I was pretty unhappy with the re-warped stock, so you were absolutely right, it went back to where it wanted to be originally. The nose cap now contacts the front sight base on the left side, so I am very disappointed. Will be looking for new wood (unwarped).
So it has the looks, but I am not sure how well it will group. Will find out soon and report back.
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Legacy Member
It certainly has come a long way from the first pictures you posted. Very nice job.
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Certainly looks 100% better, nice job on the parkerizing too, I gather thats a Zinc based solution? Don't be disappointed either, I,m sure a few on here would be happy to give it a home.
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Legacy Member
Originally Posted by
Vincent
It certainly has come a long way from the first pictures you posted. Very nice job.
Thank you very much.
Originally Posted by
bigduke6
Certainly looks 100% better, nice job on the parkerizing too, I gather thats a Zinc based solution? Don't be disappointed either, I,m sure a few on here would be happy to give it a home.
Well, I ordered another forestock. Perhaps third one will be better. I am calling them tomorrow to make sure someone takes a look at it before it ships. And if it is not warped, I will simply fit the new one to everything else.
Meanwhile I will be taking it to the range soon and seeing what it can do. Will try to take video and pictures.
Oh, by the way, funny story. So I ordered a few bolt heads, and got the longer ones I asked for. One was so long that it didn't allow the bolt to close on .308 go gauge. And it was apparently swaged on the sides. Even though I removed that excess material it still wouldn't close on the go gauge. We then turned to the one down in size. Voila! Perfect size. Get it parkerized, I take the rifle home and assemble. Only to realize that the bolt head is machined off center. Meaning the face and head is at a 5 degree angle to the tenon. Maybe it was bent. Regardless, with a face at an angle I would be getting good contact with the back of the case... so scraped it. Luckily I had a third bolt head that was overturning just a slight amount, but when in place, it produced just the right amount of headspace. So that is why you see an unparkerized bolt head on the rifle.
Last edited by MosinVirus; 04-29-2016 at 02:18 AM.
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Contributing Member
What you have learned along the way Mosin will help you to get a new fore stock fitted in no time at all, from what it started as and finished as is testament to the good work you have done. But more than that you have listened to what was being said by those with the qualifications and years of practical experience & gained knowledge to assist you (Even if you were a bit stubborn)
As a quick lesson in life:
There is never a dumb question in life just a dumb answer, in my years of crane operating I have seen many a driver expound the fonts of knowledge only to come up short when the acid test happened and when things were going pear shaped.
In fact one guy who I had a history with because he white anted me wrecked a 110 ton American lattice crawler crane I watched the whole affair happen basically he left his boom pawls engaged with a heavy load and was walking it down hill with the load in front of him (Dead wrong), the crane got a bit tippy toe so he stopped put the load down over the side of the crane onto the ground forgot his pawls were in and placed the load on the deck.
By the time he realized boom spring back was going on and it was against the boom backstops A) he could not release the pawls jammed by boom pressure so he could not boom down he had actually boomed up beyond minimum radius a big NO NO** B) The resultant spring back onto the boom stops caused the boom to fail and fall backwards over the crane @200' of boom wrecked and the car body of the crane even the butt of the boom was bent over the car body.
I went to see him after the dust had settled asked what went wrong he fed me a load of b*llsh*t and then said " They wont sack me I am too good of a crane driver " thing was the new owners of that crane were coming down to see it from Perth not a nice sight their new brought crane. By the way they sacked "Hundreds and Thousands" (his nik) on the spot.
** Booming up beyond minimum radius in a lattice crane means the pennant ropes are not taking any load and you get a compressible load effect on the boom basically the boom can fail and concertina straight down**
Last edited by CINDERS; 04-29-2016 at 03:06 AM.
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