Nylon buffers for Semi Auto Historic Arms

[tr63]

WallyG, I had not thought of it in that fashion, but yes, I suppose if the spring was the same diameter (1/2") as the nylon bushing, than yes,. It should be short and stout. Like a tea pot! lol

If you have not seen the inside of the Historic Arms trigger frame/striker set up let me know and I can try to take a few pictures.

Thankfully, on my Project Guns Bren, the original buffer is all there and the Mighty Lime striker system is working very nicely. So this discussion mainly revolves around the Historic Arms Brens, and in particular, my L4A4.

Please post the detailed pictures of the Historic Arms trigger frame and striker system , thanks .

[AmEngRifles]

Please post the detailed pictures of the Historic Arms trigger frame and striker system , thanks .

Will do once returned home. On the road at the moment.

[AmEngRifles]

tr63, I am back on line. I will try to get some pics posted this week. Will be busy tomorrow, but it could happen. I will return to the idea,as I now have the L4A4 running reliably. Only took removing 3 coils off the striker spring! It runs well on gas setting 3.

[tr63]

Thanks , looking forward to see the pictures .

[AmEngRifles]

OK, FINALLY took a few simple pics.


Bren L4 buffer - Google Photos



I believe my first trimmed buffer attempt gave me NO difference in recoil impulse, because as you can see, the rear of the striker in the Historic Arms build has a hole for the striker spring to nest in that is about an inch deep. This, along with the portion of the trigger frame that nests the striker spring (contains 6 coils worth) keep the striker spring in place at both ends. That means the containment spaces, specifically in the striker, were too long to allow my shortened buffer to do anything! And even with all that striker spring bound up and wound up, I don't think the striker or the bolt carrier, et al, is striking the rear of the trigger frame at all. I think the spring gets compressed, and all the residual energy left for a recoil impulse is transmitted through the compressed spring into the trigger frame. All firearms systems have recoil. But in this instance, I think it is the recoil spring that will eventually get battered at until it is time to replace.

Reminds me of the battering an AR-180 will display on the Op Rod return spring of the gas tappet system that compresses and starts to overlap coils as the rifle is shot more extensively. The Bren striker spring does not exhibit that quality at this time, but the rifle has only had maybe 500 rounds through to date.

NOW, if I want to take the time to figure it out, there may be that perfect length nylon buffer that would allow full recoil, cocking and setting the striker, and compressing the striker spring with just a little buffering to those reciprocating parts at the last millimeter of travel/space. But that is going to be a slow process of finding material and trimming to length. I don't think this nylon tube, as sold, will be long enough? Maybe 2 of them end to end, with one of them trimmed to the magic length???

What we really need is a good source for Semi Auto Striker Springs of the Historic Arms design. As I just got the rifle to function reliably by cutting 3 coils off the striker spring, I am going to live with it as is. I just want to enjoy shooting the dang thing.

One answered question, if you look at the photos, is the setting where the striker is sitting against the release sear, THAT is the compression length the striker spring binds up within. The buffer would have to be almost that length, yet still shy just a bit to allow some overtravel of the striker to be sure it is caught by the sear. It is definitely a short length of space where everything is happening.

[tj214]

Hey AME

I'm in the (newly minted) Peoples Republic of Virginia and have a HA Inglis Mk II conversion. Due to time constraints I've been able to put only 120 rounds (all Partizan) through it, all of which shot beautifully. I don't know much about the L4's commonality with the Mk II. Do you suggest installing a buffer in my Mk II? Not sure it's necessary since so far everything is working as expected, but of course I want to take good care of my baby! I bought a couple of the buffers right after your first posting, so it'll take a about two minutes. Thanks much.

Dave

---------- Post added at 11:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 PM ----------

Oops. Big bandaid on my left index finger; meant to type AMR, not AME.

[WallyG.]

Ask and you might receive an answer...

On one of my visits to HA (Len's shop) I asked about the recoil springs... he gave me a handful and said that he sourced them from McMaster Carr McMaster-Carr

Just now upon searching I have not found a similar spring listed on their web page - he may have had them made up and purchased in bulk.

He also used this same spring as a magazine follower front lip assist when converting mags for 7.62x54r.

The ones I have are 10" long by 3/4 inch diameter. I have no idea of the compression specification.

Hope this info helps.

[AmEngRifles]

Thank you Wally. I have ordered some springs from McMaster in the pst, just not Bren striker recoil springs. I do suspect he MAY have had them made to his spec, but have NO real knowledge of such.

Hey Dave! As to the "nylon buffer" conversation, it all started with the question of the removal of the buffer plate and spring apparatus from the Historic Arms design. I have stopped worrying about the parts battering each other. If I ever see signs of it in the future, I will address it. I may still play around with these .99 cent nylon sleeves, but I am really happier that my L4 runs properly now. FINALLY!

[tj214]

Very good news. I'm sure you'll keep us informed if you see a need for the buffers. As you say, for a buck worth having in case it's needed!

Dave

[AmEngRifles]

tj, I would say you are a blessed man. Not because you live in Virginia, but because your HA Bren is working well with no fiddling. I would just run it. Don't worry too much about battering. Keep an eye on the striker , striker spring and rear portion of the trigger frame, internally.

Do try various ammo sorts if you can come by some variety, just so you know what works and what doesn't. The jury is still out on the Wolff steel .303 for me and mine. Need more range time myself. Also want to work up some loads on the bench.