Increase trigger pull weight on Swiss M96/11?

[MAC702]

One of the rifles I want to consider for CMP GSMM matches is my Swiss M96/11. While my Swiss K31 passes the trigger weight requirement of 4.5#, the M96/11 isn't even close. It's way too light.

1. Is this normal? If so, I won't screw with it, and will remove it from consideration.
2. If it should it be heavier like most other military rifles, what would I look at to see if it can be properly restored?

Information

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[ssgross]

I believe the weight limits are 4.5lb for garand and all other semi-autos, and 2.5lb for all bolt action - this would include your straight pull M96/11. The link to the current rules on CMPs page appears broken for me so I can't double check.

EDIT: 3.5lbs for as issued foreign service rifles. 4.5 for garands, 4.5 for high-power (AR's).
https://thecmp.org/wp-content/upload...GamesRules.pdf

EDIT2: I was half right in my original statement. 4.5/2.5 only applies to the vintage sniper match.

[MAC702]

Right; and thank you for the correction of 3.5 instead of 4.5#. It was weighed by the CMP armorer at check-in at the last Western Games. I hadn't even thought that an old military rifle might be too light, but it was. I used my back-up Colombian Mauser instead. But I'm still thinking I'd like to do the M96/11 if I can. I need something long to keep the front sight in better focus.

[ssgross]

I hadn't even thought that an old military rifle might be too light, but it was.

Do you recall what it weighed in at? I don't have a M96/11, but from pictures it looks similar to most others. Actually, as I google it looks like there were 1 and 2-stage variations in the m96/11? Here is the 2 stage...

Works like a 1903 trigger. You can gain (add) half a lb or so just by cleaning up the first stage, and by "balancing" the humps you can control the balance between first and second stages. There are volumes written about how this trigger works. The radius of the middle hump relates to the length of the first stage, and its height in relation to the hump at the nose relates to how much of the weight is in the first stage vs. the second.

Here is the 1 stage version.


Many bubba's liked to decrease trigger pull by grinding a couple coils off the mainspring. While it achieves the desired result, it can/will cause other problems. I would start by comparing your spring against one known to be unaltered. If yours was altered, you can get your 1/2 lb or so back by swapping it out.

Lastly, you can add 1/2 lb or so by simply stiffening the trigger spring - either swap for a new spring if yours is worn, or put a small shim under the spring to force it to compress slightly more. This will work for either trigger type - adding resistance in the first stage.

If making any permanent alterations, I strongly suggest you spend hours studying your trigger, and reading until you are confident you understand how it works. A couple swipes of your stone could be all that separates perfection from ruin. They are not complicated if you are mechanically inclined.

[MAC702]

It's definitely two-stage. Dunno what it weighs, as they just use a fixed weight, and it either passes or doesn't. He did say (and I agree once I started comparing it directly) it's not even close; it sure is nice though! The Swiss rifles are a different "feel" because of the long first stage. A single-stage Swiss would be really weird!