Garand: Desirable but reasonable Serial Range?

[usabaker]

In July, a NEW California law will levy an additional 11% tax, on top of the 8.5% I already pay, meaning I will need to pay 19.5% Tax on any firearm and ammunition I purchase after July.

As such I "Plan" to (talk to the wife) purchase one more Garand before July. Along with all the other things to look for is there a desirable serial number range I should be looking for. Keeping in mind that I'm going to be limited to a $1000.00 to $1200.00 price tag, just because I really can afford more right now.

I'm looking at these right now as far as serial numbers go...
The two Winchesters are in an Auction, so knowing this my bet is they will outrun my price range)

333829 Springfield
450348 Springfield
1321399 Winchester
1617041 Winchester
1968958 Springfield
223165 Springfield
2628740 Springfield
3534936 Springfield
3285268 Springfield
3652534 Springfield
4209850 Springfield
4212305 Springfield
4263912 Springfield
4314607 Springfield
4335657 Springfield
4342675 Springfield
4346931 Springfield
4357265 Springfield
578941 Springfield

[Bob Womack]

There is a certain individuality to the idea of "desirability." When I was out shopping I wanted a low-mileage Springfield Garand with some finish left on it so I looked for a post-Korean War serial and found one. There's also some benefit in that choice because all the performance updates are present in a largely intact late rifle. Now, the stock on my was shot out and loose, so I kept it but ordered a tight, new one to shoot the rifle with. Some people specifically want a WWII weapon. Some want a Korea-era weapon. Some drill down further.

Beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder.

Bob

[Singer B]

Can't go wrong with any of them. I have a post war 1956 Springfield that is absolutely beautiful since it never saw any real service. My WW2 Winchester is a true beater and still needs lots of love since it had more SA parts than Winchester parts. They all have their own stories and I would break it down as mentioned above - pre-war, WW2, Korea, post war and pick which era you would prefer.

[usabaker]

I would break it down as mentioned above - pre-war, WW2, Korea, post war and pick which era you would prefer.

Might be right, I have WWII era, perhaps I'll go with a Korea Era just because my Dad served in Korea. I found some from 52' for under $1000.00 just don't know the condition of the bores. But I could always change the barrel like you said. I asked one of my buddies if he had time to run by the CMP and see what they have and if there is a big enough selection that might be worth taking a trip to visit him and the CMP; since I have my Type 3, buying out of state is easier.

[RCS]

Over the years, I have found two WW2 M1 rifles. The first was purchased by a USMC Officer at the end of the war and sold to an enlisted USMC
Seabee who in turn sold it to me. It was rebuilt during the war with a 1940 receiver, Buffalo Arms barrel and SA internal parts, looks like new.
The second rifle was April 1944 completely original but well used (still will print a nice 100 yard target -have photos) came from veterans estate
in remote area Wisconsin woods, only rifle plus a shotgun.
Note operating rods were not modified with the relief until post war rebuilds, checked my Rock island 1943 shop manual and some TM's

[AFJon]

Right now the CMP does have the Navy Mod 0 and Mod 1 Garands rifles in 7.62 NATO available at 950 and 1600 respectably.

https://thecmp.org/sales-and-service/m1-garand/

[usabaker]

Well. after being outbid on six M1 Garands, I think some people just bid for fun because there is NO WAY that some of the rifles I bid on were worth what they went for; I just settled on an M1 Garand that meets my most basic wants. I figured I'd pick this one up, and I could always sell it if I find or win a better one before the July deadline hits. It's on the way to my FFL, so I should have it in a week or so.

It is a Springfield Armory SN 3084640, and all the parts seem to be SA, but I will know better once it's in hand, and I can take her down. The bore gauges at 1.0, so it should shoot well. She is a bit rough, but I like mine with the lived-in feel and look, and I probably paid more than I should have.

[browningautorifle]

Springfield Armory SN 3084640

I had SA 3340115 last, I rebarreled it to 7.62. Sounds like you got a good one. Some people decide they have to have something and set their payments to snipe, in the last seconds it's stunning how high things go. You have a good one so have fun...let us know.

[FremansFarm]

A CMP rifle might be the best way to go.

Amen to that. I'm lucky to live 4 hours from the stores. Did the GCA convention in October which included matches at Talladega. I believe they alternate years at Anniston for their site. Along with a group of friends we try to do a couple of trips a year and spend three nights. On our last trip in March two of our friends did the Buddy Maintenance course and built their expert grades. There are great weekly store reports on the CMP forum. You'll always find individuals with expertise to help pick out a rifle.

[ssgross]

Did the GCA convention in October which included matches at Talladega. I believe they alternate years at Anniston for their site. Along with a group of friends we try to do a couple of trips a year and spend three nights.

I need to do this. On my work trip, I booked my return flight from Huntsville a day late so I could take a day off and enjoy the range. I flew with a 1903A4 that I de-sporterized. It had an original A4 receiver. I used a NOS GI barrel and a NOS field replacement scant. It came with an original GI Redfield base, so I only had to find the split top rings, which took some waiting. I used a Hi-Lux replica scope, which did the job just fine. I shot off the bench to minimize the gear I had to fly with. I was getting solid groups in the 10 ring at 600, sans the wind flyers as the wind is normally very strong and very shifty on that range. By late morning, every flag was standing straight out, but all were in different directions. I was lucky to get a few shots off before it shifted, then making a new call it would shift to the complete opposite before you could get the sight settled on target.