Surplus rifle safety check

[Kli]

I own a couple of 91/30 and a CZ 24, all of them are in good shape cosmetically, however I have not yet taken them to the range yet.
I have took one of the 91/30 to a local gunsmith for safety check, the check went fine and the gun is safe to shoot.
The check cost $40, that's little excessive for an $99 rifle. I'm planning purchase more surplus rifle, so would be nice that I can DIY for the safety check.
My questions, as far as safety is concern. What do I need to do to determine an old surplus rifle is safe to shoot.
I understand headspace is one of them, but in addition to that what are steps/procedures or a checklist of things I need go through to make sure a rifle is safe to be fired. What are thing a gunsmith would need to do to check?

Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Information

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[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

Not knowing the history of milsurps I have purchased and being very saftey minded I have gone the gunsmith route as well.After determining the gunsmith was simply firing the rifle and checking the case dimentions/condition I have concidered perhaps remote firing and case examination myself. I have seen several posts concerning the debate between having a rifle examined by a professional and self testing and it seems the majority seem to think paying to have a rifle examined is a bit of a waste. I do unstock and check the action ,barrel and obviously the bore for any problems.
There was a recent post concerning a exploding DP Enfield that will get your attention. I guess the point is to be comfortable enough with your own knowlege to make an informed decision.

[Bill Hollinger]

Here are a few things I do.

1) Insure the weapon is empty and no ammunition of any caliber is anywhere near your work area.
2) A visual cursory inspection of the overall weapon to include inspection of the bore, function testing the action (open and close the bold, slide or lever depending on type of action) this includes pulling the trigger, preferably on a snap cap.
3) Remove the action from the stock and inspect the barrel for any deformities such as bulges cracks, welds and drilled holes. A weld where the barrel meets the receiver may indicate a drill rifle and may not be safe to shoot.
4) Check the trigger mechanism for missing pins, screws, cracks, welds or other deformities.
5) Inspect the stock for cracks, areas where the action may be rubbing, dragging or binding with the stock.
6) Clean thoroughly, bore, trigger group, bolt, action, etc.
7) Check all marking on the weapon especially on the breech or barrel near the breech (this is where a caliber change would be stamped or marked).
8) If you do not have them, purchase a set of head spacing gauges for your caliber. They are cheap insurance and nice to have when attending shows for purchasing a weapon. Buy the kind that do not require the bolt to be disassembled in order to be used. Muzzle wear gauges are nice but a necessity. Throat erosion gauges are nice also, but again not a necessity.
9) If you really are into it, purchase a Caldwell's Lead Sled shooting rest to mount your weapon at the range. This will facilitate remote firing if shooting from the shoulder is not something you wish to do.
10) Once you have fired the weapon, inspect the casing for bulges, cracks, primer bulge, too deep of a firing pin strike, deformities other than on automatics the neck may deform when it strikes the receiver on the way out. Normal!

I may have forgot a couple of things but you get the picture. If anyone has something to ad, please do

[Aragorn243]

When I started collecting these, I was somewhat nervous about firing them. Considering I hunt with a Savage 99 that is older than most of my milsurps, that was a bit odd.

I asked a lot of questions, researched the various types for known issues and checked what I owned for those issues. None ever came close but I will still check them today. I also thoroughly clean and inspect them and test function without a round in them. By the time I'm done, I probably know more about that particular weapon than a gunsmith will.

I do take them to the range myself and fire them myself to check the casing, primer, chamber, etc. I always warn those surrounding me that this rifle has not been fired in 50+ years and wait till they clear the area. I have reached the point were I'm willing to take some risk for myself but not for others. I've also reached the point where I understand the chances of anything dramatic happening with the complete inspection package I perform are very, very remote.

First few I fired while holding them extended and sand bagged but when it's come to recent rifles, I am now aiming and shooting from the start. None of them had any known issues other than a 1917 Eddystone and that ones issue is cracked receivers with re-barreling and I checked it for that.

These old rifles for the most part were designed to withstand a lot of abuse and continue to safely fire. Standards set by the military were pretty high as well so issued rifles are pretty safe. The majority of the issues with failures are probably the result of Bubba doing something stupid to the rifle, a reloading issue or a questionable company or importer like Santa Fe making rifles that look like the real deal but are not out of substandard materials. There are also the de-milled rifles which someone turned into a shooting rifle again that may or may not be safe.

Many of the rifles I own have matching bolts and those I don't worry about at all. None could be considered a "last ditch" so I don't worry about that aspect. Many others were arsenal rebuilt and I don't worry about those either. The only one I was really concerned about was the Eddystone. The bore in that one is the worst of any rifle I own and I was more concerned about a rifle that wouldn't hit the paper more than one that wouldn't function safely. Took me over two years from time of purchase to taking it to the range. Until I fired it, it "might" not be a good shooter. After firing it it either was or was not. Turned out it is a good shooter so I worried about nothing with it as well.

All that being said, you have to be comfortable with what you are doing and willing to accept responsibility for what you are doing. If there is ANY question or doubt in your mind, don't shoot it, take it to a gunsmith.

Most of these guns I'm more comfortable shooting than a lot of these new rifles they are putting out today and telling us they are high quality. Light weight plastic pieces of junk is what I call them.

[Patrick Chadwick]

Maybe someone already wrote this and I missed it. If so, my apologies.

If not, then an absolutely vital (and I do mean vital) safety check is for "slam fire" and "safety-off fire". As these have been described several times before I suggest that you search the forums using these terms. I have not yet come across a slam-fire in an old service rifle, but I have encountered "safety-off fire", either of which is a "sure-fire" (the pun is inevitable) sign that the rifle is so worn as to be dangerous or, more likely, has been tampered with by Bubba in a dangerously misguided attempt to lighten the trigger pressure.

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

I may have forgot a couple of things but you get the picture. If anyone has something to ad, please do

Very clear and detailed instructions.
Thanks!

[Kli]

Thanks all for your commends.

I'm planning on disassembling and cleaning them, taking them apart is really half the fun of collecting them.
I sounds like if get some headspace gauges plus take them apart cleaning/inspecting I should OK?.

I like the idea tie down and test fire them, it seems the sure way to know whether or not they are safe to fire.
The problem is that I'm in So. California, the only place to shoot is at range, and the range master is not going to allow that.
I would be nice I can just tie it down or sand bag and pull the trigger remotely, it would be easiest way to tell.

I think most of the surplus firearms are safe, but just want to be on the safe side, and don't want the small percentage happen to me.
The last thing I want to happen is the rifle blow up in my face, after all shooting suppose to be fun.

[Bill Hollinger]

Where in SO-Cal are you? There are all kinds of places to shoot east of Los Angeles out in the desert.

[Kli]

That's what I heard, but not sure exactly where.
There is alot ATV and off-road activities from what I can see.
It would be great if you point me to the right direction, where I can do long range shooting safely, and not get in to trouble

Thanks

---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:28 PM ----------

I'm 20 mile from downtown LA btw.

[jamie5070]

Hooked On History, Where can I read about that exploading DP rifle? Thanks.
john