Roger is right. The forends on Australian rifles are a bit on the fragile side compared to English beech and walnut. The Queensland maple and Coachwood is soft and once oil soaked will crumble from the draws rearward if the forend isn't fitted correctly and tight. Ask me how I know! They will also split from the guard screw forward if ill fitted. Add in someone turning the stock bolt with the forend fitted, (which could be remedied by reading a $10 Skennerton SAIS #1 booklet), which is the kiss of death. I'd keep my eyes peeled for a nos coachwood forend for this rifle. They used to be a dime a dozen but that's 20+ years ago so watch the auction sites and be prepared to pay. If the draws are destroyed, patch it with oak and dowels as per Peter Laidler's articles posted on this forum. Forget the little copper plates which were a bit of a stopgap measure anyhow for the reasons stated above. I love Australian SMLE rifles, the quality is second to none but am very wary of shooting all but one, a '41 date Mk.III* which I restored from a sporter with a nos '45 date barrel and nos coachwood forend when I had a stack of them. I'd be very careful shooting my 1915 Mk.III with original QL maple, (how would you ever replace that forend?), and even a green tagged '43 date that the forend is pretty oil soaked.
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PS, That "dark stain" is probably the original finish which was 50-50 raw linseed oil and creosote. You can still smell that creosote on un-mucked with Aussie rifles.
I'm sure you'll know this already, but before you take the rifle out & shoot it I'd have a good look at that forend - I only have the photo's to look at not the rifle, but it looks to me like the brass tie screw could be missing or broken.
Than you for that timely advice. Yes, it is missing. I'll by necessity remove the furniture and have a good look at everything. I have a 1921 Lithgow No.1 MkIII* that is currently apart as I consider refinishing the wood since someone applied what appears to be a varathane clear gloss finish. The rifle looks like some tarted up Weatherby
---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:49 PM ----------
If the draws are destroyed, patch it with oak and dowels as per Peter Laidler's articles posted on this forum. Forget the little copper plates which were a bit of a stopgap measure anyhow for the reasons stated above.
My Lithgow 1921 No.1 MkIII* is currently apart as I'm removing a gloss finish from the furniture. I checked the draws on it and the metal didn't look like copper so I checked with magnets and they held. Some sort of steel I assume.
I've never seen the little plates made of steel but anything's possible. I bought a hundred sets from Lawrence Ordnance in Australia twenty or so years ago and they were all copper. I've either fitted or sold them off since. I still have a part box of the little brass screws. Maybe our Australian brothers can elaborate about the steel plates. I think many of the plates in the draws of pre-WW2 rifles may have been added later but just an uneducated guess.
[/COLOR]PS, That "dark stain" is probably the original finish which was 50-50 raw linseed oil and creosote. You can still smell that creosote on un-mucked with Aussie rifles.
I did a little research
That is news to me but I did a little research in Lance Lysiuk's book The SMLE 1903-1989 and found a color picture on p. 207 that could have been taken of my rifle. I put the rifle out in the Sun for a few minutes (it's currently 107f. - 42C. for our British Commonwealth brethren} and yes, I could detect a faint hint of creosote. The stock's stampings are faint, but I was able to make out SMLE III 1941 on the butt stock. Thank you for the info.
I've had the enclosed so long I can't remember where it came from, but I think I was told it was tried as an alternative to the copper plates, & was an Aussie invention. However, I've no idea if that is true or if the two forward projections actually did anything useful.
It's been in a drawer for the last thirty years.......
I've had the enclosed so long I can't remember where it came from, but I think I was told it was tried as an alternative to the copper plates, & was an Aussie invention. However, I've no idea if that is true or if the two forward projections actually did anything useful.
It's been in a drawer for the last thirty years.......
I believe that was used to repair fore ends that had cracked at the butt socket end. Take a look at my fore end, it has an OA stamped steel insert which appears to be used to hold the cracked fore end tight together.
Thanks for that, & sorry, I may not have explained myself clearly. The U shaped steel plate is a standard fitment to SMLE forends (apart from late produced Indian patterns) - it is the two forward projecting steel rods that make it a little unusual. It looks as though they would project forward into the draws..........
There is a fine crack on the left (# 1, 2, 3) pretty sure that screw wire can be used to ensure no more propagation of it.
P.Laidler or Brian Dick may be the best ones to assist you with getting that fixed if your retaining the wood.
As a Lithgow collector i know there is no such thing as a mint 1913 rifle. It can look very tired with original furniture or not so bad with a FTR set of furniture. Lithgows were used rebuilt and used again just having one in usable condition is a plus with its original furniture and all the markings showing its life history is a plus plus. Very few people can tell or even know if a Lithgow part has been replaced. So dont knot your knickers just look after my history it is correct as it left service
A 1913 rifle with a later date barrel is factory correct
That vertical crack at the back end is permissible according to the EMERs. I've glued many after a good degreasing over the years but imaging they just open up again.
rifles are a bit on the fragile side compared to English beech and walnut. The Queensland maple and Coachwood is soft and once oil soaked will crumble from the draws rearward if the forend isn't fitted correctly and tight. Ask me how I know! They will also split from the guard screw forward if ill fitted. Add in someone turning the stock bolt with the forend fitted, (which could be remedied by reading a $10 Skennerton
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Originally Posted by 
