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    Legacy Member tower06's Avatar
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    Rust Removal

    Just picked up a Polish Mosin Sniper and aside from a cracked wrist in need of repair, when I took it apart it does have some surface rust to barrel and receiver. What is the best way to treat and remove it without affecting the finish drastically?
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member gtodan's Avatar
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    I have used both of these products:

    Kroil Google Deal
    Safest Rust Remover http://www.ridrust.com/overview.asp

    Use 0000 fine steel wool and go slow, be patient. Because it is a blued surface I would try the Kroil first. Apply a coat and let it soak. Gently with the steel wool and wipe clean. Reapply and repeat until the finish is what you want. Leave a thin coat of Kroil on the steel as a protectant.

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Yup, Kroil or the less expensive WD40 and 0000 steel wool.

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    Legacy Member tower06's Avatar
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    Thread Starter
    I will give them both a try. Thanks

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    rust removal

    I have had good luck with kroil oil and the edge of a pre 1980 copper penny....regards

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    The rust itself is more abrasive than the 4/0 steel wool, so keep whatever you are wiping it with clean.

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    Legacy Member tower06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by techkya View Post
    I have had good luck with kroil oil and the edge of a pre 1980 copper penny....regards
    Penny...really?

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    Read about this on another site. I have not tried it myself so take it for what it's worth.

    Electrolysis Rust Removal



    You can remove rust from metal using electrolysis, and it will not harm the bluing. The main advantage to this method is it gets all the rust in hard to reach places. You will need

    A plastic container that will hold the part and electrolysis solution.
    Steel rod. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THIS WILL PRODUCE HARMFUL BYPRODUCTS.
    Water
    Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda. Washing soda can be found in your local grocery store with the laundry detergent. If you cannot find washing soda, pour some baking soda--sodium bicarbonate into a pan and heat it over low-medium heat. Water and carbon-dioxide will cook-off leaving washing soda-sodium carbonate. ) Another source is swimming pool "PH Increaser." which is labeled 100% sodium carbonate. [Thanks to Bob Head for this hint]
    Battery charger or other high amperage power supply.

    Cautions: Wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with this solution is very alkaline and can cause irritation. The electrolysis process breaks down water into its component parts, hydrogen and oxygen, which can be explosive. Work outside or in a very well ventilated area. Be sure your battery charger/power supply is unplugged before attaching or touching the leads.
    In the container, mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda for each gallon of water to make up your solution. Be sure the washing soda is thoroughly dissolved. Place a steel rod either through the part to be cleaned (use o-rings to prevent the part from touching the rod), or numerous rods around the inside of your container. Connect these rods with wire; these will be the anode. You must be sure that the part to be cleaned is not touching the rod(s). Suspend the part in the solution with steel cable or wire so that it makes a good electrical contact with the part; this will become the cathode. Connect the negative lead (black) to the part being cleaned, connect the positive (red) lead to the rod(s), then plug in the charger. You will immediately begin to see bubbles; this is hydrogen and oxygen as the water breaks down. Allow the part to "cook" for 3-4 hours. The time is dependent on the size of the part, amount of rust, and the current of the power supply. After you remove the part, immediately clean and dry it off, then coat it with a good quality gun oil or rust preventative oil.
    Thanks to Roy Seifert for this tip
    Roy reports that he used this process on a 1911 frame that had a lot of surface rust all throughout the inside. He set the frame upside down on wooden blocks in the electrolysis solution and placed a rod with o-rings through the magazine well. He used a 1.5 amp trickle charger and left it for about 4 hours. When finished, the frame was completely free of rust, and the bluing was intact.

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    Advisory Panel Chuckindenver's Avatar
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    ATF and pine sol. early nickel or penny. then clean with 00 Steel wool
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
    molinenorski@msn.com
    720-841-1399 during normal bus, hours.

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    Rust Removal

    Instead of steel wool, I'd recommend using the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner from:

    Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner

    This stuff is just the ticket and unlike steel wool which rusts like crazy itself, this stuff lasts and lasts. Very inexpensive - relatively - also. I learned about this from Rimfire Central Forum and couldn't believe the high marks it received from everyone who tried it and so I tried it for myself. Guess I'm just an unpaid but converted acolyte now. Kroil plus one of these pads will impress you! Good luck!

    AQBill

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