Opinions on my 1903 Mark I

[dirtytwo]

Just picked-up my first Springfield M1903 Mark I today, I don't see them for sale that often so I jumped on this one and would like your opinions on what to do about its barrel.

First, I'm no expert, but the stock doesn't appear to have ever been refinished, it has the finger grooves with the lowered ejection port near the Pedersen Device hole on the left side, I haven found any stampings or cartouches besides a name that was lightly carved (barely an inch long) on the butt stock. The serial number is 1049750 and there's an "SA" above a flaming bomb, then a "12-18" stamped on the barrel, the barrel also has a "8 L 7" stamped on top near the rear sight under the handguard. The bolt has no markings besides a "1 8" on the mid lug and the "SAFE" and "READY" on the safety catch. The mag cut-off has the "ON" and "OFF". Apart from that there's an "H" on the bayonet lug casting. If there's anything I'm missing, I'd appreciate if you can show me where to look.

Now my question: the riflings are fairly weak, nothing crisp, they're there at the throat, but very faint in the last 1.5" at the muzzle. Pitting is micro small, nothing deep. I haven't shot it yet, hopefully tomorrow, but if it proves to be a dog at the range, would you replace the barrel, counter-bore the last 1.5" or should I leave it be for the collectors' value?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

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[Allen Humphrey]

Welcome.There are some other guys on the forum that are better at values than me but I expect they will asks a few questions so I'll start the ball rolling:
1. Sounds like it migh have the original barrel, so that would be a plus for collectors. Does it sill have the Mk. I trigger/sear/cut-off? Pictures of the action out of the stock will answer this if you are not sure
2. I think c'boring the barrel would be a waste of effort, I doubt you would get wild improvement if the barrel is pretty worn to begin with. Check the crown for damage first. Sombody will ask you to try the bullet test and post a picture. You migh be surprised that it shoots well. Give us a range report.
3. A true Mk I stock could be a real nice find. Pictures of the stock would help, but what you described sounds like the real deal.


If the whole rifle is correct, I'd say it had more value as a collector than a shooter, but its your rifle now.

[Rick the Librarian]

The barrel is original, as Allen said. The bolt is a replacement and dates to about 1914-16, according to John Beard's steel lot charts. Before counter-boring I would see what you have. The "H ("Hardened") was applied to all Springfield-made upper bands after about 1909, I believe.

[Kirk]

A Mk 1 rifle would also have a special trigger/sear, magazine cut off & spindle. The cut off has a "W" profile when viewed from above. The spindle is slotted on the end as if it were a screw (it is actually a pin) and the sear, visible in the sear slot (when the bolt is removed) has two halves. See the photos.

Attachment 20629Attachment 20630Attachment 20628

[Calif-Steve]

I wouldn't touch it with a drill/mill. The Mk 1's are getting tough to find. Try handloads, 40 gr. 4895 and a GI 150 gr. bullet. Nice find.

[MGMike]

If that bolt has been correctly identified, it's a case-hardened single heat-treat bolt. I would replace the bolt before doing any shooting with it.

M

[dirtytwo]

Thanks for all the replies, folks. So there's bad news, and then there's more bad news after reading Kirk's post. First, at the range, this Mark I patterned like a shotgun at 100 yds. You couldn't measure it in inches, more like in feet. The guy next to me would look over with furrowed brows whenever I'd hit the snow 4ft in front of the target! I tried handloads (45.5gr imr4895 behind 150gr FMJ), Federal factory FMJs and Win factory 150gr SP, but no difference.

Now after looking at Kirk's pictures, my Mark I doesn't have the "W" profile cut-off, it doesn't have a slotted pin on the end of it either, although the cut-off works fine. My sear isn't split like in the photo, it's one solid piece. And now I possibly have an early, brittle bolt that may not be safe to fire? After the range session I was thinking of buying a 1940s 2-groove still in cosmoline that you see on gunbroker from time to time. Any thoughts?

[Calif-Steve]

Not that is matters, but the US Army never had any issues with early bolts. Just the receivers. Mint Remington bolts are easily found, buy one. Slow down the bullet with 40 gr. 4895, 150 GI bullet, flat base, not boattail. Load the bullet long, not short. Good luck.

[Kirk]

Most Mk 1s do not have the correct parts and, since you don't have a Pedersen Device, work just fine with standard parts.

How is the muzzle? Any dents or burrs that intrude into the rifling? If so, recrowning may restore accuracy. On the other hand, if the last 1.5" of the bore is worn, not much can be done for the barrel. As others have noted, handloads may help. If the 150 gr GI bullets at reduced velocity don't work, try some 180 gr or 200 gr round nose, flat base (commercial soft point) bullets. They have a longer bearing surface & may stabilize. Try groups at 25 yds to see if the bullets are keyholing - sounds like yours were keyholing (tumbling). They should hit the paper at that range. Avoid any boat tail bullets - boat tails are near impossible to stabilize in a worn bore.

One other thing to do is to make sure your guard screws are tight. From the degree of inaccuracy you describe, I doubt this is a factor but it's worth a try.

[RBruce]

Check the various auction sites for a period barrel, or a replacement '03 barrel. You might have problems using a 03A3 barrel. Chuck in Denver has some barrels.