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Shooting a Lithgow that does not have recoil plates.
Hi;
Picked up a really nice. matching serial numbered Lithgow Mk III. Stock and barrel dated 1943, Serial number is D 73792. Not JJ imported but stamped Australia in wood just behind trigger guard. No FTR markings or other dates stamped in stock. I pulled it down this am and it does not have recoil plates. Stock fit is very tight. Saw no damage to wood where plates should be present. I shoot all my Enfield's at my home range with a very light load. I have other's I can shoot so it's not a must but what is the opinion of shooting this one with light loads? Thanks
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05-25-2016 03:49 PM
# ADS
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BruceHMX: Are there any markings on the forend that would identify its origins? It could be it has a replacement forend made of walnut or other wood not requiring the metal plates. If it's coachwood, which has a pretty distinctive appearance, you might wish to consider installing the plates before use. Is your "light load" a squib load or just a starting level conventional load?
Ridolpho
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You know I do believe the stock and forearm are walnut. Under the serial number on forearm is SLAZ 43 then a letter B In front of magazine well is the letter F then a Crown 3S. Neither have the orange type appearance of coach wood.
Load consist of 10 gr's Unique or Red Dot with a 100 gr cast pistol bullet. About 1100 out the muzzle. Zero recoil.
Thanks
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Slaz 43 indicates slazenger factory 1943, therefore it's coachwood.
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So it falls within the range when the plates were deleted? Ok to shoot with really mild loads as mentioned?
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Yes that would be right by the sound of it. There's always a risk to stocks without plates, but, I've had a number of coachwood rifles the same, that presented as having had much use and with no visable degeneration to the draw area at all. In fact, the rifle I am shouting presently is the same, so all things being as good as can be, I would shoot it.
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Thank You to Homer For This Useful Post:
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I am very ignorant when it comes to Lithgow but since I want to learn I have to ask.... What periods were the plates omitted in the fore-ends? I know there were experiments without plates prior to WW II but other than that I am totally ignorant.
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Instead of guesswork, why not simply see whether the fore-end is or isn't correct for your rifle. It has wood drawers or is missing the copper drawer blocks. Then fix it so that it's right. At the moment, you have an MGB that might - or might not - have a Midget engine. Once you've fixed it, the problem is solved for good
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