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Is there a sticky or post that can walk me through removing the turrets on a No32 MkI? I'm looking at the exploded view and it looks very straight forward but I sure do not want to fubar anything. The goal is clean, paint and wax the numbers.
thanks.
Hi Madcrate and others interested in this question and even more so, the answer. Hold fire if you can. I say that because I WAS going to do a pictorial lesson on the subject with an old clapped-out Mk1 but there are several problems. The first is that you can easily unscrew and remove the deflection drum but you can run into problems with SEVERE tightness when you put it back if you're not aufait with the procedure and the way everything is inter-related mechanically (and optically).
The Range drum is a BIT easier as there is a little more mechanical leeway/tolerance there. But the down side is that you must withdraw the grat housing (the diaphragm/diaphram) to reassemble it all. And unless you are EXTREMELY, extremely careful you're going to touch the grat or crosswire and............
Another point is that the lead screw threads are 2x multi-start and over the course of 60 or so years, have formed a matched set with the cursor slide (Def) and diaphragm nut (range). You CAN put the lead screw back 180 degrees out in many cases but in others, the leadscrew will bind. And if it binds when you're assembling the range drum and you fumble with the diaphragm............................
What I'd suggest you do madcrate breaker is to get hold of an old, clapped Mk1 and practice with it for a while....., get the feel of it so to speak Don't worry about breaking the bits and pieces like the grat or pins or shearing stuck screws. Once you've got the hang of it, I'll fix it for you.
And talking about sheared screws, just be VERY careful when it comes to undoing tight 8BA turret screws as they're prone to shearing off just below the level of the housing. But dn't let me put you off...................
Quote:
Originally Posted by madcratebuilder
Go for it.
I'll let you the tools.
:super:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...e22d63e2-1.jpg
What Peter said, with the only comment that you can remove the elevation lead screw and leave the reticule in place. Just remove the locking collar first, then unsrew the lead screw completely, then remove the four screws that hold the 'drum plate' and lift off. When you come to replace the range drum, put the lead screw and locking ring back into the drum and tighten slightly with your finger tips only, then with the scope in a padded vice, use a small screwdriver or similar to hold the 'nut' on the diaphragm level and with your other hand rotate the drum and lead screw until the thread starts properly. Screw in as far as you can. Then loosen off (remove) the locking ring (it need only be finger tight so that should be easy) and set the 'drum plate' down in the proper place and replace the four screws. Now you can wind the lead screw in as far as necessary and replace the locking ring.
Not correct procedure perhaps but it did work for me when was fiddling with some.
Sometimes I didn't take the locking collar out, just screwed the lead screw in until the drum plate was almost seated, pulled up slightly on the drum to raise the reticule a lttle, then another turn or so and the drum plate should seat completely. Screws in and you're done - or if you did it incorrectly - you're done in the other sense!:lol:
Phew............... There's no true 'correct' procedure surpmil, except the way you were taught as apprentices. But don't forget Surpmil and others that while you're doing that, your fourth hand has got to make sure that the awful Mk1 type clicker plunger is still a) central in its hole in the PLUG, screwed, clicker plunger at the bottom and b) the flange at the top is seated below the............... I won't go on! All this, while it is completely hidden from view, covered by the index plate.
Of course you can do it several other ways and I don't want my way to be the definitive way by any means. I would do a pictorial essay but I am always aware in the back of my brain that once you've overhauled your sticking or loose drums, you've got to put it together again. And that's where the problems just begin........
As much as I am a hands on guy and prefer to do my own work, this is one case I well defer to the experienced master.:bow:
Peter, BDL well be sending you a scope soon.
MJ, look slike you've been in my tool box:beerchug:
Madcrate......... while you've got it, please have a play first, look and see, strip it, see how it works, look and learn THEN send it. It's a good opportunity. It won't cost a penny more, even if you send it stripped down. Don't worry too much about the grat and crosswire, they can be replaced. Just take care of the lenses and it'll come back like new
I've got a no 32 mk2 coming next month that needs servicing too, would you mind doing the same for me Peter? I'd like to completely strip it and get the tube re blued( it looks like it has its' original blue through the surface rust) and the other metal parts cleaned up, and send it to you for servicing and reassembly.
Touché Peter! All I can say in me own defence is that most of what I learned, I learned from you, (not that bit of course!) and it's too bad I couldn't get into HM Forces as a Canadian in 1987, or I would have tried for the same trade. Would have been time better spent than in university probably.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler