Bubba and Daughter Inc. got this one.......
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Bubba and Daughter Inc. got this one.......
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Yes, just sleeved one like this with the join half way through the foresight lugs, and the stub bored to .325 to be damn sure it doesn't go flying off. 400° Loctite and you're done. Could Loctite on the foresight block for a little more insurance too, but I won't.
When ever I read "SAAMI" gauges I cringe in respect to the .303 British cartridge. Other than the GO .064 which is the same as MoD specification, they are useless when it comes to gauging a LE rifle, PERIOD! There is a mindset in the USA that these 100+ year old design, rimmed cartridges that transitioned from black powder to cordite to nitro can be tightened up and turned into match grade specification. In other words, it ain't never gonna happen!! There are so many other factors involved in the LE design that are pertinent to good accuracy. Please don't over headspace these rifles. Buy your gauges from Arrowmark Tool and Gauge in Australia or have Forster custom make you a .074 here in the USA. Forget the coin gauges too. I've had countless rifles through here that were supposed to be out of specification and sent by folks using coin gauges. Guess what? When I put real military spec gauges in them, they were fine. Make sure the bolt assembly is fitted correctly, it passes the .074, then shoot and enjoy instead of worrying yourself about issues that don't exist. Steel helmet on and ready to duck.
You're dead right Brian............. DO NOT over CHS the rifle. But you'll talk until you are blue in the face...........
Surpmil also makes a good point in his thread. You can sleeve the new muzzle anywhere along the foreesight block band lugs and use the existing lugs to accurately align the part lugs of the new muzzle section. Note 'accurately' align as this is important. Additionally, this way, you won't see the join either.
Thanks for the info and guidance folks!:thup:
As far as this CHS goes, I should have said: passed the Mil Go Gage and Failed the Mill No Go. I have a 4 piece set of gages that cover Mil and SAAMI. Most of the bolt heads I had to choose from so far for this rifle put me back where I started with a failed Mil No Go. The one I selected was a length outlier - it sits around 0.005" clear of the Mil Go gauge - I hope that is not over CHS-ing (if so I have "metal off" options). No bid to create target accuracy here - just safety first! As found the bolt could not be removed from this rifle due to the battle sight reducer and scope. - it probably had not been out in some time....so CHS was the order of the day and when refitted it liked the HXP I fed it! I still want to reduce the overturn..eventually... Thanks for the gage source tips!
Thanks for the muzzle resto tips, There seems to be progressive approach to keep me occupied and off the streets:
1 - shoot as is and check precision....could leave it at that if it is anywhere near "tight"!
2 - graft on the resto piece - machine matching steps, use foresight lugs for alignment, sweat or loctite in place (the latter for me as I am a metal-melty-welder type - need crayons to hit any other temps).:madsmile:
3 - if either of the above are astray replace with a good used whole barrel (thanks Promo) - 4 - tackle pad and scope bracket colimation after all the barrel work.
Will look into untapped pads - thanks Peter! I understand about the "originality folks" - my mindset for this one is "what would happen at FTR" - I never add stamps or marks to make up or correct - I do keep original parts with a rifle if they are significant (this one would keep its barrel around if changed).
Warren - thank goodness all those "lumps and bumps" are gone from the top of that action - much smoother looking! :( Gotta think like Bubba to track him.
Mikesm44 - feels and smells better too - love the smell of BLO in the morning!
Brian - look for a Kevlar lid, and add medic insignia - you're here to help!:cheers:
As long as it passes the .074 you're good to go.
I used to have a Kevlar but it belonged to Uncle Sam and I had to turn it in! Now all I have is a Canadian WWII steel helmet with the crackle finish and an original German Paratroop helmet that actually fits!!
---------- Post added at 11:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:33 AM ----------
Got the Luftwaffe K98 to go with the helmet too but much prefer a good old No.4!! ;)
Looks like the pads were salvaged recently or did Bubba take those as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren
I had a chance to shoot the rifle at a local CMP match at the weekend (I took my SLR along as a back up plan). So it now has an upper band and cheek piece to complete this stage of the build and 5 or so test shots after the CHS work - plenty ready to have a go at targets! Bright sunny day, mid 70s F, no wind.
In the 8 minute prep period, I could get a read on its sights at 100yards and have a go at any required adjustments.... With the ladder at its lowest setting (bottom stop) it printed about 2 feet high using HXP ammo. I did a quick bit of ready math and decided to change out the front sight blade for a 0.045" taller example. A little commotion as the hammer and drift were produced, a quick chat with the safety officer and I was on my way (the SLR was right there...). So blade in, a couple of minutes remaining and a handful of shots - I got it pretty close - 8 inches above POA and 2 inches right - close enough for gits and shiggles!
The rest of the line up featured AR15s and a Garand - two of which were seasoned CMP shooters....still didn't pull out the SLR.
In slow standing I shot a personal best of 78/100, only pulling one shot out of the circles for a miss - 9" group excluding that. I had a basic web sling and used it as a hasty sling throughout the remainder of the shoot - no front trigger guard screw swivel yet. A decent show for seated rapid - all shots off in 70 seconds - pulled another out of a 4.5" group - the same in rapid prone all 10 in 4.5 group this time. Finally slow prone saw me trying to Kentucky windage the shots to the bullseye somewhat successfully.
It cycles great, really likes the rapids, but got a little hot and gave some heat shimmer - need to re-black the rear sight to cut reflection. Scored in the 350s (out of 500) but secured top score for this meet. Not bad for about 6 weeks of ownership at 1/3 of the budget of the rifles it bested!:D I am pretty happy with the new fore end and bedding (proof in the pudding) so I treated it to some stain and a set of original scope mount pads - these will wait there turn for now though. The SLR will have to wait for another day...:cheers:
Just back together after staining the fore end and prepping the scope pads for looks and ultimatley assembly (spacers under the screw heads to adjust length until I can get a bracket to set and size them). Will be developing some handloads and testing them against Britt Mk7 for a return to CMP with the ladder sight (battle sight now ground off). I may bite the bullet soon on the muzzle length restoration...slowly, slowly...
You're gradually getting there l1a1. I agree it's better not to rush these restoration jobs. You'll have a nice piece of history that's well worth owning as well as fun to shoot when it's finally done. Good work!
ATB.
P.S. Forgot to mention that my own restoration of a butchered but genuine L42 is also coming along nicely. It came to me from Germany with a lot of help from fellow forummer Promo, & had sadly been got at by Bubba's German cousin Ludwig Von Bubba. But as with your restoration I'm getting there. In fact it's turning out so well I'm going to keep it!