No 32 - No 71 MKI Sight

Greetings,

Do any of you gentlemen have any information about the telescopic sight shown in this photo?

Attachment 1417

Note that the original "No 32 Mk 3" has been struck out and the scope is marked "No 71 MK 1".

The scope and rifle belong to a friend of mine. The rifle is an EAL .303. Years ago he mounted the scope on the rifle thinking that the rifle was just another sporter - I believe he told me he paid $16 for the rifle!

The scope was covered in white paint when he got it. It has a rather strange reticule that puts me in mind of something suitable for a recoilless rifle or rocket launcher. Unfortunately I did not take a photo of the view thru the scope.

Any info would be appreciated!

There happens to be discussion on this type of scope over on the Jouster Enfield forum. Peter Laidler says the sight was used for the Churchill and Centurian ARVs as a sight on the early Besa installations. The white paint would support it's use in a piece of armour, where everything was usually painted white to help visibility. The date would certainly support it's use in the centurian. The scope which was queried on Jouster was dated 1954.

The 71 scope can be converted back to 32 specs, without too much trouble. It does require some modification, but nothing that cannot be handled. I presume it has the spiderweb reticle in it now. If not, it has probably been converted back to a 32.
Drop me a private email, if you would.
Cheers,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wheaty

The 71 scope can be converted back to 32 specs, without too much trouble. It does require some modification, but nothing that cannot be handled. I presume it has the spiderweb reticle in it now. If not, it has probably been converted back to a 32.
Drop me a private email, if you would.
Cheers,

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Hi, can you explain to me the differences between specs related to the British telescopes? For the numerical models, does the conversion mean not only the reticle but the size of the mounting?
Thanks :)

Hey all,

I know this is an older thread but I also just recently received a converted No32 Mk3 just like the one discussed. So I thought I'd upload some photos.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...985f26_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...9fbb64_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...367163_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...e1be52_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...a8e50c_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...9d183a_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...eae639_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0bc41c_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...4435c3_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...595606_b-1.jpg

Thanks,
Kevin

If I had to guess I'd say it IS the one discussed.

Came with a DCRA conversion? ;)

10BA cheesehead screw, never seen one before. A lot easier to get out than a grub screw; unless someone breaks the head off. :ugh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Surpmil

If I had to guess I'd say it IS the one discussed.

Came with a DCRA conversion? ;)

10BA cheesehead screw, never seen one before. A lot easier to get out than a grub screw; unless someone breaks the head off. :ugh:

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Hmmm...I'm starting to think you may know something that I don't know! But yes, that would be the one it came on. I had hoped to use the DCRA for competition but it appears the (T) conversion may not be on par. So further investigation is needed.

Anyway, I spent some more time cleaning up the scope and managed to get a bit more of the silver paint off. Almost out of elbow grease at this point but I think the end results are worth it. Here are some more pictures:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...fe1545_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...20e9e6_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...90e509_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...84984e_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ef64a6_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...c24bdc_b-1.jpg

Thanks,
Kevin

That looks a lot better!

I saw the rifle and scope advertised on PEI, that's the extent of my knowledge.

Re-conversion to No.32 Mk.3 spec is possible.

I have converted a few of them back to No.32 Mk.3 status, including removing the extraneous engraving.
I will see if I can find a photo of the last one I did.
The 71 sight was for the Auzzie Wombat AT gun.
I also have the correct screws for the scope as well.

---------- Post added at 06:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:16 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yeandle31

Hmmm...I'm starting to think you may know something that I don't know! But yes, that would be the one it came on. I had hoped to use the DCRA for competition but it appears the (T) conversion may not be on par. So further investigation is needed.

Anyway, I spent some more time cleaning up the scope and managed to get a bit more of the silver paint off. Almost out of elbow grease at this point but I think the end results are worth it. Here are some more pictures:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...fe1545_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...20e9e6_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...90e509_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...84984e_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ef64a6_b-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...c24bdc_b-1.jpg

Thanks,
Kevin

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I do not know what the paint is, but it is a real SOB to remove!!!
You did well.
cheers
Warren

I'm not sure about the Australian connection Warren. Not when I was in Australia they weren't. And where did that get them from? And why the silver. Silver painter kit is usually associated with tank and AFV turrets

Peter:
Check out the optical sight for the Wombat...It is a 71 in the Ozzie manual..
I got the info along with a scope from Ozz many years ago. It was part of a EO manual on the Wombat.
I would love to find out what the paint is as I have never removed a harder to remove paint in life.
I have all the chemical "good stuff" for splitting lenses from Methylene Chloride to MEK and they barely touched the silver finish.
The last 71's I converted were a sliver finish and not white.
Before I forget, you were going to share to us "great white unwashed", the secret to removing a rusted turret detent in a Mk.3 scope tube.
If there are more ways than time and rust remover we/I would appreciate it.
I have been reasonably successful in removing them due to some root canal training 60 plus years ago, and access to the equipment.
However, if there is an easier and better way, always willing to learn
Heard from TAFT lately??? He has disappeared off the face of CYMR

The Wombat idea must be an Aust method of sighting Warren. The Mobat and Wombat were both of my era, here and Australia. As I recall it now, the Mobat used as the sighting medium, a side mounted Bren gun with a slight adjustment for the trajectory of the .303 and the 120mm round. The L4/7.62 trajectory wasn't as close as the old 303 and for many years the old 303 Bren remained with the Mobat and earliest Wombats. Until the .50" M8C came in. That changed things and accurate hits were the order of the day. Just 3 flashes from the spotter rounds and it was goodnight for the tank. Which we thought was good............... Until we saw our first MILAN. We thought that was the end of tank warfare. That was until we saw the Javelin and N-law

To get into the rusted solid clicker detent plungers of the Mk3, this is what I was taught......
Remove the 10BA grubscrew from the anti-backlash nut and remove it together with the plunger and springs. Using your own good judgement, ascertain the angle at which the jammed plunger hole continues (downwards ?). Follow this down and.....
You will fairly accurately identify the point IN THE THREAD, INTO WHICH THE NUT OS-36384 SCREWS, where, if followed through, the clicker plunger and spring would emerge.

Set the tube up and use a centre drill to mark that point. You MUST use a centre drill because you're drilling into a brass thread at a n awkward and easy to slip angle! Point marked, then follow up with the smallest drill that you can get away with. You won't need to go far until you break through. That done. fill with oil and next morning push jammed plunger out with suitable sized drift

It is impossible to make a threaded bush with pilot hole to act as a guide for several reasons....., accessibility for a start. I have never failed - yet!

What do you do about the hole between the nut and the clicker plunger hole. Nothing! Thereis graphite grease between the new plunger and spring AND in the nut threads. The nut threads are effectively sealed by the nut. The difficult bit is setting up the tube in order to accurately drill the small hole. Where this can look like a disaster is when bubba has made an effort to do the same, from the outside and burred the plunger hole. This way you can push the plunger out with a fee well judged taps with a small (toffee) hammer. Clean the burrs up and that's it.

Sorry it's taken so lone to mention this but I just need prompting every so often. And nope, haven't heard from Taff