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I'm presenting my n°32 MkI, here are some pictures:
It's a basic MkI, waiting for a good bracket.
I bought it in U.K 2 years ago.
Feel free to comment,
:wave:
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3782. Not one that's been near me but several of its close brethren have
I guess that I don't get a scope modified to reduced the backlash.
But is it really important considering that once zeroed at 200m? I won't touched the turret any more.
This morning I made a cradle for collimating my scope:
It took me a bit longer than 10mn;), but I'm happy.
I set my scope on it, and I have this result (I superimposed 4 pictures).
I guess that I have to bring the grat to the center of the optical axis (the intersection of the yellow diagonals) by turning the range and deflection lead screw (yellow arrow) clockwise.
Will I get clicks or is it a fluid, continuous action?
If I understand my readings, I guess that the purpose of the locking ring (green arrow) is to prevent the lead screw, the grat, to move freely. Does the locking ring has any action on the range or deflection drum?
I have the book "telescope sighting No32", these questions are coming after the reading.
Thanks
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You could get the collimation a bit better than that Lou. The tip of the pointer must rotate on one axis.
The green LEAD SCREW LOCK NUT should be tightened sufficient to prevent the lead screw (yellow) from moving independently of the drum. The lead screw is attached to the graticle block (the diaphragm) so must be locked to the drum. But do NOT over lock/tighten the lead screw nut.
The picture depicts the situation before the collimation. Now I have to make the tools as you explain in your book. I guess I will obtain a rotation on one axis, should I bring the tip of the pointer on the middle of the yellow diagonals?Quote:
The tip of the pointer must rotate on one axis.
I collimated my scope today, like in the book. The tip of the pointer rotates on one axis but, as soon as I want to tight the locking nut, my scope is no more collimated, there is a thin drift.
Do I have to maintain the lead screw blocked with the tool when I tighten the locking nut?
If I am understanding you correctly then yes you need to hold the lead screw so it doesn't move while tightening the lock nut down if you are going by the book, but you need a third hand to hold the drum while tightening the nut.
There is a simpler way to do it... loosen off the locking nut so the lead screw turns freely then snug the locking nut back down just tight enough to keep the lead screw from slipping when the drum is turned but still loose enough so that it can be turned with the tool for making adjustments without having to loosen the locking nut each time. Just hold the drum and turn the lead screw.
I understand better now the term "third hand". I have 4 more..my children in case of:lol:Quote:
if you are going by the book, but you need a third hand to hold the drum while tightening the nut
I 'm going to try again,Quote:
There is a simpler way to do it... loosen off the locking nut so the lead screw turns freely then snug the locking nut back down just tight enough to keep the lead screw from slipping when the drum is turned but still loose enough so that it can be turned with the tool for making adjustments without having to loosen the locking nut each time. Just hold the drum and turn the lead screw.
Thank you
:wave:
Good advice all round here but you don't need the third or fourth hand if you just do what I and Vintage Hunter says.
Just tighten the lock nut sufficiently enough to HOLD/GRIP the lead screw and NO MORE than that. Then adjust the lead screw that is friction tight. There is absolutely no need whatsoever to lock the lead screw nut more than that!
Look at it another way everyone out there in forumland who insists on tightening the lock nuts down like they're tightening up Boeing 747 wheel nuts (yep...., I've seen these butchers at work and have also had to correct their attempts at butchery, believe me). If simple friction is sufficient to hold the slipping scale on a Mk3 and L1A1 then is there any point in using anything more than simple friction on a Mk1 or 2.............? Question answered!
Sometimes, not in this particular example of course, I feel that instead of explaining things classroom/school fashion, I just want to yell 'just do as you are xxxxxxg told for xxxx's sake'
Thanks Gentlemen for your advices. I guess that I succeed in.
I tightened the lock nut a bit more than I was doing, than yes, the setting of the grat is easier.
I cross checked on a closer chimney, and the tip of the pointer is rotating on one axis.
Next step is to get a bracket.
If you leave the graticle like this, it is in the centre of the optical axis of the telescope and it is here that you will get the best optical definition of the image.
This is the position that the graticle should be when the telescope is fitted to the rifle. This is what you should aim to achieve when you are building a replica No4T or fitting a telescope and bracket to a telescope-less No4T. And it is this that you should get when you fit your matched telescope and bracket to your No4T. But in real life, it doesn't happen like this so when we are fitting brackets we allow a SMALL tolerance left and right and a slightly larger tolerance up and down. This is because because it is a moving wire telescope, the graticle already moves 60 minutes of angle - or one degree - up and down to cater for the range variation and therefore greater optical abberation as the tip of the post arcs across the curvature of the lenses.
A bit complicated and long winded but what Lou shows is the perfect image you should achieve.
Good job on centering the reticule. Looks like the scope tube has been bead blasted and then just painted over. You might want to get it phosphated and then painted.
I have never needed the "third hand" with my Mk.1. Just take the advice given here and ensure that the scope/rifle are held firmly in a Workmate or similar.
BTW, I also have an Houghton & Butcher and it has been treated the same as yours, that is to say painted (With a wall-paper brush by the look of it.)
A hard bake-on paint over a fine bead blasting usually lasts the course. After all, this is what happens to the brass parts whether the main tube is phosphated or not.
Another little ploy in zeroing Mk1's and 2's is to (ALWAYS bore sight first of course) and then totally ignore the markings on the drum and zero the rifle using the grat as a foresight don't forget together with the formula C=D+R. When it's zeroed in, just note the linear position of the reverse headed lead screw. Rotate drum with lead screw to indicate the range at which you zeroed the rifle, hold the drum there and gently turn the leadscrew so that it aligns exactly to the position that it was. Simple!
Initially I didn't do that. "How far out can it be?", I thought. So far out for the first (and only) round fired to impact just a few feet from the top of the stop butt. (It's a DA range - fortunately.) In retrospect it was lucky that it shot so high because the windage was so far out it would have had a good chance of hitting the target to the right of me. I stopped there and then and took it home for bore-sighting - using the stock fence at the bottom of our garden.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Yes, especially a "self-phosphating" one like Suncorite, but a good paint is hard to find these days, at least over here in NA. A good phosphating makes even average paints very durable though, as the the paint penetrates the crystalline coating of the phosphating and bonds superbly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
Of course I know you know all that Peter! ;)