m1903a1 tryout results

I've posted in some other threads about a recently acquired 1903 with 12/1942 serial number, 5-1942 SA replacement barrel, and wearing a new CMP c-stock. When I got it, the front action screw tip had broken off down in the recoil lug. I got it out, replaced, and went shooting the other day. Here are my results, and issues I identified at the range.
1. after a couple fouling shots to get on paper, I put an SR-1 target black on a regular sheet of paper at 100yds. I put 7/10 shots in the 10 ring, 4x's, 2 in the 9, and one flyer in the white. 10 ring is 3.35", and x ring is 1.35". I shot off a bench with front rest at my indoor range. I used the small peep, and found it difficult to focus on the front sight in the indoor lighting. I can see the aiming black clearly with the larger M1 rear sight, and my 1903a3 sight, but in this case I just tried my best to center on the white page.
2. The milled follower gets stuck at back. After lots of reading here, and measuring against my other m1903, the gap between magazine and receiver is about 0.050 too big. Also, the forearm at the rear barrel band is too fat and clearly noticeable as the barrel band appears stretched when it's on. I conclude the stock was probably on fitted minimally, if at all. Jerro's inletting black is on its way, and I'll be following up with lots of questions for the experts here. Although, I could just see if a thicker stamped A3 follower works, and call it a day since it seems to shoot fine as is. But I'd rather make it better and learn a new skill.
3. Many rounds chambered tight, and 1 not at all...although it chambered fine in my other 1903. These were handloads of mixed brass, full length sized and trimmed to the trim-to length in my Hornady manual. I did a field-expedient headspace check before firing with a live factory round (Hornady match 168) round (no firing pin) as a go-gauge, and added a piece of aluminum tape (0.003 thick) to the end as a no-go. Bolt closed easily on the go, but not on the no go. I inspected with my bore cam and there is some chatter on where the shoulder is cut. everything else is pristine. I suppose I should just rent a pull through reamer and lightly "chase" the chamber? If it's not the shoulder, then maybe the neck isn't long enough? First step is to probably rent or buy a set of real gauges first.
Here are some pics of the throat, shoulder with some what looks life some rough chattering, and the rifling just immediately in front of the throat.
Attachment 110892Attachment 110893Attachment 110894
EDIT: A better picture of the shoulder.
Attachment 110895

So if the hornady 168gn match round chambered easilly and your reloads a TTL, FLS'ed didn't then the tightness may be the projectiles are seated just that bit to long for that chamber the Ogive may be contacting the lede of the rifling I would say bump them back 5 thou and try a dummy one till it chambers easilly and load it to that spec for that rifle.
If the neck was to short then when you cammed the bolt down you'd squish the neck into the projie setting yourself up for some nasty pressures, so I would try a dummy round made to your old spec and go from there rather than chasing out the chamber neck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I suppose I should just rent a pull through reamer and lightly "chase" the chamber?

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I'd stay away with reamers, try a paper polish first. Use a mandrel made of wood dowel with a slot cut for machine paper with oil on it. Try turning it with a low speed drill and in and out. That should remove any offending chatter marks. It doesn't take much.

So I've been measuring all morning.
The rounds I was shooting were Hornady 150 SP with mixed brass (I got 1k of them a few years ago with rebates, and use them to get on paper or any other just for funnies shooting). I shoot these with low-powered loads to account for the variance in case thicknesses amongst mixed brass.
I just loaded a bunch more, took out the firing pin, and selected one that does not chamber at all - there was variance in my lot even though all were trimmed to same length and full length sized.
I measured the max case base to ogive (CBTO) with my Hornady gauge and one of these bullets - 2.676. My handholds are seated to the middle of the cannelure on these bullets at 2.620. Plenty of room.
Then I sorted the 100+ rounds I loaded into 3 piles - smooth chambering, sticky, and no go's. The dozen or so no-go's were all military brass (LC), and a couple greek HXP's - including the one I tested.
Next, I FL sized both test cases - one was RP (chambers fine) the other HXP, and started measuring the neck. Indeed, the HXP case is 2 thousandths wider at the neck - pretty normal as military brass is thicker. I colored the case with a sharpie and chambered - the neck is not the issue. The contact is all on the shoulder. I measured all other parts of the case and they are the same. The only thing I can't measure effectively is the shoulder itself - which must be the issue by elimination.
I then took a brand new piece of never-fired Hornady brass, and FL sized it and it chambers fine. Something is screwey. I worked the HXP case in and out of the FL die about a half a dozen times out of pure frustration, and WALLA! case chambers just fine - a little sticky, but just fine.
I guess my lesson learned is that the chamber on my 1903 is very, very tight at the depth of the shoulder - I tested the above cases in all my other 30-06 rifles and they all chamber fine with no noticeable difference.
The "problem" could be the chatter where the shoulder was cut - seen in my picture above, or it could be that the chamber was not reamed deep enough - or maybe the barrel was installed and never reamed, and I got lucky - it is after all a SA replacement barrel.
Next step is to get proper gauges and make sure there is no tightness on the go gauge. Depending on those results, I'll either need to simply polish like BAR suggests, or if it's worse I'll need to finish ream it.
I'll order some gauges - inletting black is on the way anyway, and report back. I have a hunch that this one was assembled and sold, with fitting or other work completed. I feel privileged in that case since I get to do all the final fitting myself and have a very nice shooter at the end of it!

You could take the FLS die down a fraction and I do mean a fraction of and inch say 1or 2 thou just enough so it will act like a body die to bump the shoulder down a fraction as thats all it needs or get a body die and set it up its a bit painful I use them on my 308 and 6.5 x 284 so I get the same consitent resistance to the bolt closing on every round. But be wary with the FLS die to far down and you'll munt the cases myself having never done that a few times!:yikes:

Apart from that as Jim suggests slow as you go with his suggestion.

I think maybe maybe I can screw my die in a tad more. It's a Hornady die, on a Hornady iron press. Their instructions is to screw down until it "touches" the shell holder. The RCBS FLS dies I have all say to go 1/8-1/4 turn further or until there is a nice caming action. Barely any cam at all so maybe the "bad" cases are hanging at the base - that is the base of the case is slightly too big - not sized all the way - to fit in the base of the chamber.
thanks, CINDERS - Being that I did get that case to fit snuggly in the chamber without force means my sizing ritual is likely the culprit, and I should work hard to confirm and rectify that before I stick anything in the chamber. After all...it really did shoot very well as is, and is only going to get better once I play with and complete the stock fitting. Jerow's just came in the mail - along with a box of a few hundreds of 30-40 krag brass (another thread), and a new mag spring for this rifle.
The new mag spring solved the "back end of the follower getting stuck" issue completely. But now, single feeding (cutoff in "off") on an empty magazine is impossible the round's nose heads straight for the right side, and runs into the flat of the barrel, instead of slipping off and into the chamber I feel this will be fixed with proper stock fitting. If not, maybe I need to adjust or file the top of the follower. Watching it as the bolt slides over, the nose of the follower "tips" down, which causes the round to slip into the chamber. On my follower, the "nose-tipping" happens too late - even on a short 150 SP round.

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Originally Posted by ssgross

The RCBS FLS dies I have all say to go 1/8-1/4 turn further or until there is a nice caming action.

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I would agree and if you asked me to set you up it would be this way regardless of manufacture. Some guys freak at the idea of the die touching the shell holder but I don't see a way of not doing it and sizing through the flex that comes with sizing... That could be the problem.

Its more like the die is not bumping the shoulder back, you can set an FLS die up so it acts as a body die but its a fair bit of jiggling around to get it correct don't ask thats why I brought body dies anyway as an experiment grab some old cases and play till the empty chambers nicely but heres the catch. Start with the FLS just touching the shell holder and when you do resize ensure you do not short stroke it flull throw every time and little adjustments, what I did to my lock and load hornady press on the FLS station I center popped 8 points equally so the adjustment are either an 8th or 16th by going in between the marks.

All brass is not equal so go with the ones that last the longest and use that as the base because some *brass have thicker necks and so on and stick to that brass as once the die is set up it should theoretically never change but yeah start with the die before buying the Hornady gauges yeah I have all of them as well don't ask why just OCD at building the best ammo I can for 1/2MOA cartridges

Get a redding body die.
Get the hornady case comparator gauges that let you measure a reference point on the case shoulder.
Get a feeler gauge so you can set an accurate distance between the bottom of the die and the top of the shell holder when the ram is brought up.
Sort all that brass by head stamp and you can then even sort by weight.

I have been down this same road with a new criterion barrel. I have RCBS FL dies and they are tricky to get an accurate full length size with a shoulder bump. The redding die can be used without having to make sure the case is trimmed to correct length first as I discovered with my RCBS die.
I bought over 350 "once fired" FC cases and had very differing full sized length issues until I sorted them by weight. I ran some cases into the chamber to check fit and separated them by easily chambered, resistance, and not chambering. Them I measured them with the comparator gauge to see the differences in the shoulder lengths. The body die was set up with the feeler gauge to bump the right amount of shoulder and cases were checked in the chamber again, then trimmed when they were right. Now I have zero issues with the batch of cases for this rifle. oh, and the case head to shoulder measurement of a fired case was not much shorter than my 03a3 or 1903 that chamber fine, maybe .002-.003.

You might want to check your followe for markings...If there is an "E", "R", or a "W", your follower is from a m1917 rifle...Had one syick on me before...

Thanks for the hint Woodman. No markings on my follower.
My 3-set Forster gauges came in the mail today from Fulton - I figured it was a good investment as I'll likely rebarrel some lonely neglected sporter at some point.
Well - the jury is in. I took the ejector off my bolt, slipped in the go gauge and wouldn't ya know, bolt only goes halfway down. My chamber's shouldn't isn't THAT rough! The little bit of friction I was noticing on a "good" case was just the chamber pushing the shoulder back a few thousandths, or the base of the case grinding on the bolt face.
A bit frustrating, but I am kind of excited to rent a pull-through finish reamer and complete my first chamber! I checked all my other '03s while I was at it, and they all close on the go, and fall 1/2-1/3 short of closing on the no-go.

UPDATE: I was looking at https://www.reamerrentals.com - they rent a pull through reamer. From what I've seen, as long as I don't require an interchangeable pilot the pull through would be the easiest to maintain uniform pressure, as opposed to using a t-handle and rod. So, I slugged the bore to make sure - I got exactly 0.308 on the grooves, and what I think was 0.300 on the lands (a bit hard to measure from the slug with a 5 groove barrel). I know of 4drentals.com as well, but their descriptions don't say whether they include the handle or not. I'm not sold on finish reaming it - since it does close on a case most of the time. I may try polishing it as suggested first. Then again, the bolt is nowhere near closed on the go gauge, so maybe those SA replacement barrels were short chambered, and whoever put the barrel on never finish reamed it at all.

I finally got back to working on this rifle - no reamer, but did do a more careful parts inspection, and it certainly is a queen! The finish on the receiver looked too brown/straw to be parkerizing - unless its that grungy. I degreased, and re oiled, and got worse results. So I tested the bottom with rust/bluing remover and wouldn't ya know...the receiver has a very thick layer of bluing on it that came right off! No worries. I'll parkerize it when I get that far.

The stock fit was terrible (cmp cartouche, ink stamped Boyds in the channel) - no contact on the flat under the receiver. I worked on relieving under the tang to get even contact fore and aft, but I don't think it will help as the gap between magazine and receiver up front is nill to begin with.. Moreover, the barrel runs diagonal down the channel. I decided instead to spring for a nice Minelli, and NOS 1903 handgaurd in the wrap - came in the mail over the weekend. Inletting was pretty good...only issue there is contact behind the tang that needed to be relieved. Otherwise even contact in the right places, just need to barely touch it down fore and aft to get the right barrel bed pressure.
The outside was veeeery FAAAAT - can't even get the barrel band down with the screw out. I spent many hours last few nights with rasp and file shaping it. I'm very proud of myself for how it came out. Wrist is perfectly fit to my meathooks, and a subtle palm swell in just the right place where I like to caress it - same on both sides as I shoot ambidextrous. Handgaurd lines up perfectly now.

The butt plate is off with daylight showing between the upper 2/3 and the wood - meaning the top screw will take all the recoil. The screw on top is already drilled, so if I relieve there to close the "daylight", I'll need to drill out the hole, dowel, and re drill after fitting the butt. Not too worried about it, I have an original scant stock with a stripped out screw hole, same place, that needs this done anyway...will do a 2fer when I get a chance - but first I have a couple other buttplates on hand I can try just to be sure.
Found some organic, cold pressed flax seed oil in the health food section of the grocery store. It's gonna be beautiful!
I'll get pictures of my progress soon.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I may try polishing it as suggested first. Then again, the bolt is nowhere near closed on the go gauge, so maybe those SA replacement barrels were short chambered, and whoever put the barrel on never finish reamed it at all.

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You can polish and then ream if needed but you can't go backwards. If you can chamber a cartridge it isn't short chambered. Short is far to short to even approach with a cartridge. Once you see one you know what it's like. It's not just a little. This ones starting to sound like a put together by amatures. I have had a few come by that were simply too tight to chamber everything fed to them, that was factory ammo...so a gentle touch with a reamer took out just powder but solved the issues completely. Then a polishing...

emery cloth is in the mail...along with one of those fancy "chamber-hone" things...found the 400 grit 30-06 one for sale. I suppose I could just drive the 10min. to lowes or Home Depot to get emery cloth, but then I'd have to put pants on. This work from home lockdown is developing bad habbits.
I did drill out the upper Buttplate screw last night, insert a 1/2 dowel piece, and re-drilled. Butt plate is nice-n-tight now, with slight clearance around it's tang. Silly me, I cut the down a bit long and then spent way to long with a chisel on its end grain leveling it out. I should have cut it a bit short, put plenty of glue in the hole, and tapped it level. All is well that ends well.
For reference...the screw's minor diameter is ~0.166 ish. I used a 5/32 bit = 0.15625. It was perfect.
I have a choice of buttplates...it came with a stippled one (I would trade the trapdoor for a smooth one and re-park it). I also have a NOS smooth, an early milled fine checker (not the NM meat tenderizer one), or a stamped Remington in my parts bin somewhere. I'm leaning toward the stippled one. I don't care about my parts queen being totally "correct" to the letter, I'd like it to have some character still after it's all purdied up. There is park over the stipples, so they were done before whatever refurb happened, and the plate saw some use after that to wear the park. It's a bit ill fitting since it has seen much abuse. I'll have to do some love tapping to get it to bear evenly on the stock. The trigger guard is milled, and I don't think I'll change it to a stamped one, and so won't use the stamped butt either.
Attachment 112930Attachment 112931
The new hole is in the middle of the dowel repair - can't even see it. I mixed a little saw dust into the glue that oozed out to hide hide it a bit. Need to smooth it out now that it dried, and clean up some that inletting black that remains.

Stock fit is perfect. Final cleanup outside with 100 grit and it now has its first coat of raw linseed oil on.
I polished the chamber today - very lightly and just enough to remove a long scratch running its length and a few spots where there used to be some surface rust. I used the 400 grit bore hone, followed by 800 grit emery paper in a dowel. There was no real change after this - other than nice and smooth with no marks inside.

Here is a pic of the bolt on a brand Hornady case, sized in my FLS die and trimmed to the exact proper trim length. Bolt falls in the exact same spot as with the go-gauge. I also used a bore cam to make shore the throat isn't short. There is indeed a small gap between mouth of the case and end of chamber where the bore starts. Is the bolt position normal for a short chambered barreled?
Attachment 112997
EDIT: I think I answered my question?...Larry Potterfield has a video with a short chambered Mauser barrel here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sa2UsDmXK6U
Initial headspace before reaming shows his bolt stop in similar position to mine.

My first thought in looking at the last picture of your rifle was, "That's an A3 not a 03", with that flat tang, hole drilled through and the uncountoured cut-off boss. Then I remembered I have a 03 with a serial number dated to 11/42 (per Poyer's book) that has the flat tang, etc. but mine has the rear of the cut-off boss countoured but not the front. So it's evident that Remington was making A3 shortcuts on the 03's in the run-up to A3 production.

you're right Art. Take a look at the top of the receiver (found on the internet...mine looks the same)
[url="https://www.milsurps.com/asset.php?
Attachment 113023
It appears to have started life as an a3 at forging time, but was then finish milled to an m1903. Best hypothesis on these is that they kept making m1903 either to use up their stock of parts, or whilst waiting on the a3 specific parts to become fully available. I read somewhere that there was delays, for example, in tooling up for the a3 rear sight. I can only wonder if the SA replacement barrel 5-42 was original. Likely not with the short chamber issues I'm describing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ssgross

Bolt falls in the exact same spot as with the go-gauge.

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So if you've polished and your bolt doesn't close on the go or cartridge then it's short. The position of the handle looks like it needs a ream. Such a small touch...

Question for the experts with a bigger library than me...my barrel is an SA replacement barrel, dated 5-42. My serial is 12-42. Is it conceivable that the barrel is original? Could it be that Remington needed to supplement m1903 barrels to finish up some of the m1903's before fully transitioning?

While with WWII Remington production, most anything is possible, an originally installed SA barrel is very unlikely. By late '42 Remington was in full production on barrels and it took only a few minutes to produce one. Remington replacement barrels were probably the most plentiful (My Smith Corona came to me with a 2-groove Remington). If anything, it's surprising that your rifle has a SA barrel).

Poyer reports Remington made m1903 barrels until Nov. 1942, and the 1903a3 barrels lack the extra machining needed to fit the sight collar for the m1903...as such any 1903a3 barrels produced in droves after production changed 11-42 ish would not be compatible. Since we know that the transition was not instantaneous or smooth - as evidenced by my receiver and others from {11,12}-1942 clearly starting as A3 but finished as m1903, I had some hopes.
However, I think those hopes are already dashed by the fact that this barrel is clearly short chambered. Simplest explanation is it was in a bin of lat m1903 receivers that were never completed in the changeover, and was bought much much and fitted with a NOS replacement barrel.
I wouldn't say "surprising" - I imagine if it was forward deployed and serviced with a new barrel, they would have put whatever replacement parts on it they had.
Guessing is part of the fun!

You are right. I had a brain fart when I typed that; I was thinking of A3 barrels. With the corrosive ammunition, it wouldn't have taken much neglect to ruin a barrel which is probably why so many of the 03's and A3's we see today show signs of non-original barrels. One of the A3's I received from the DCM in 1960, serial number dates to 9/43, showed every indication of being unissued. I don't recall the barrel date but it was a 4-groove. The one my brother received was a 2-groove with a serial number to 12/43. Original barrels? Who knows. But I'm pretty sure the dinged-up Smith Corona that I received in 1962 with a rack number painted on it and a 2-groove RA barrel was not original.

finishing reamer and T-handle on the way from reamerrentals.com.

reamer came in the mail today...that was fast. I didn't get an email that said it shipped, figured I was waiting on one to come in.
The T-Handle had 2 set screws on the bottom. One of them was longer than the other, and bumped the side of the action...no good. The fit in the socket of the handle was tight enough I thought it would be OK with just the one set screw.
This is my first time finishing the chamber on a barrel, so hopefully this helps other newbs get up the courage to do it.
1) I polished the chamber with a bore hone, and then fine emery paper in a slotted dowel, first to see if that would work, but knowing if it didn't I'd polish smooth any small pits or raised area from former corrosion. Didn't work, so I ordered reamer rental.
2) I thoroughly cleaned the chamber. Then, I used tap-magic oil cause that's what I had - liberally coated the reamer and inserted carefully, rotating clockwise as I did.
3) I gave it about 5 full turns without pushing it in - just the weight of the tool. I could feel it "grab" on the chatter marks...likely on the shoulder as you can see from my initial pics in this thread. Removed, flushed the chamber with clp (only cause that's what I had in a can with a straw), followed by air from my compressor. Checked with the go gauge, no progress.
4) clean the reamer, re-oil, and repeat. this time applying pressure...basically just hanging my hand on the t-handle. I could feel it grabbing, first it was jumpy as it removed the chatter, but by the 3rd turn it was smooth. Rotate clockwise while removing, clean out and check. No visible progress (bolt was in the same place), but there was a bit of grey dust in the flutes around the shoulder.
5) Repeat. 3 turns, same pressure. this time I could tell it was cutting smoothly the whole time. clean out and check progress.
6) OH NO!!!! the bolt closes easily!!!! Panic. Panic. Did I go too far? how could it be? Plenty more powder on the reamer flutes...only at the shoulder though.
7) Quick...grab the no-go gauge. Whew!!! it doesn't close...not even close!. Check with a live round (firing mechanism removed...only the bolt sleeve) from my dies. perfect.

My phone died just as I was going to take pics. I'll take final pics with my bore cam too...I owe you all pics of the stock after final shaping...raw linseed oil been doing its thing for over a week now.

Conclusion...I think I got very lucky. After the perceptible change from chatter to smooth cutting, I should have gone one turn at a time. I think the result would have been the same (total number of turns required), but my momentary heart ache would have been avoided! I did learn to turn the reamer a few more turns with no pressure before backing it out (still turning while pulling out). This helps to make sure there are no burrs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I think I got very lucky.

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Maybe, but that's how you start with reamers if you have no one there to instruct you. You move slow and careful and the end result is the same. I had an M1 rifle come to me that had a perfect barrel, except someone had thought it too tight and overdone it a couple turns. New brass showed a separation line...no issue with military ammo and not reloading but that's not here in Canada.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I did learn to turn the reamer a few more turns with no pressure before backing it out (still turning while pulling out). This helps to make sure there are no burrs.

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That also brings out the bits. You could have used brake cleaner for the cleaner, it has pressure and a long tube to reach inside. Go muzzle down and it blows everything out and leaves it dry for testing. Next time... Anyway, well done. By the way, it might still want a touch of polishing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

By the way, it might still want a touch of polishing.

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I did indeed polish it again. Very happy with the results.
I also double checked the the max CBTO again with my Hornady gauge. It is about 6 thous. less free bore now than there was. Assuming that I didn't cut the throat at all, (I didn't notice any debris on that part of the reamer), this must have been how much more I pushed the shoulder in. I was tempted to put steel blue layout fluid in there to take pics, but decided against the high likelihood of making a big sloppy mess of it.

Time to shoot it and see.

Final pretty chamber pics. won't likely get to the range until kids' break is over. Until then, they love helping with reloading - they call it "bullet parties".
Attachment 113595Attachment 113596Attachment 113597Attachment 113598

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Time to shoot it and see.

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This rifle exceeded all my expectations. The color from the RLO has started to come in. The Minelli has some nice swirls of light and dark walnut after sanding off the oil stain they use when doing the final shaping - and the NOS handgaurd I fitted has some similar character - it kind of matches but doesn't, only due to the variations in wood grain.
Attachment 113828Attachment 113829Attachment 113830Attachment 113831Attachment 113832Attachment 113833
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Since my receiver came along so late, last month of m1903 at Remington, I finished it with as many A3 parts as I could find for cheap. Cocking piece is Rem. 1903, milled mag and floor plate that it came with, stamped and blued furniture. The stippled buttplate came with it, but with a checkered trapdoor I just had to swap out. Just because it's a parts queen doesn't mean she doesn't want to look good too!
And it shoots great!...even though I didn't quite do my part. I find that aperture sights are very hard for me to get a consistent sight picture across more than 3 shots at a time. I can easily take 12 rounds, and get 4 different tight groups. Need to work on that. The target above is 100yds from the bench, front rest and rear bag. 168gr Hornady BTHP over 48.5gr IMR4064, Winchester brass and Rem 9 1/2 LRP (worked up this load in my Gibbs 03a4 clone). The 3 "fliers" (left 10 followed by top 9's) were separate sight adjustments. Then 3 upper 10s came, then the X, then the 3 lower 10's in ~1/2" square! Target is an NRA SR21? - the 200 yd one scaled for 100yds.
My next step with this rifle is to send it to Chuck to have the barrel, receiver, buttplate, front band parkerized. You can see in the pics that receiver is a dark brown rust-blue. I thought it was just old dried grease in the park, tested a spot with rust/blue remover under the receiver and it came off like wiping butter off a hot knife. I'll leave the other furniture in it's blue finish, but I'm gonna polish and blue the magazine floor plate eventually - a high polish like the national match rifles are said to have been - just because I can. The few m1903 parts it had, or I had in a box, I'll save for the sept 1942 1903 I have. It came in an 03a3 scant replacement stock - unmarked. I shoots just as good. I may put it in a Minelli also, and use the scant on a A3 sporter when I find the right one.

I need to close this out by saying what a great evening at the range I had. I had my son (12) with me. It was just a priceless evening...good company, good shooting, and a wonderful "start" to the next generation, and a new family style service history for this rifle.