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Dimensions of Ishy Screw
I did a search and found out alot about the Ishy screw but didnt find out the dimensions of it. Ive got a 1952 RFI No 1 Mk3 with the Ishy screw but when I got it there was no Ishy screw in it. So Ive pretty much just got a hole there.
I would like to put a screw there to fill the hole and was wondering if anybody knew the length and width of the Ishy screws or where I can find one. Im not adept enough to do fill the hole with a wood dowel like Ive read on here.
Thanks.
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04-22-2013 08:57 PM
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Do yourself a favour Long Rifle................ Even if YOU'RE not proficient enough to plug the hole with a hardwood dowel, there will be someone within 100 yards of you that WILL be proficient enough.
It's a bit like nailing the number plates to your lovely 1945 car when with a bit of thought, you could do a better job by using double sided permabond sticky-backed tape! NC is a big place.....
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True, Ill see if I can find somebody that can do it for me.
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Peter, you did a how-to-replace-an-Isahapore- screw-with-dowel post some time ago, but it doesn't seem to be among your archived articles. Can you (or Moderator?) re-post it - LongRifle might be reassured to see just how simple it seems to be. And as you point out, the glued dowel will provide plenty of strength, just like the screw did.
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RobD: The article is still there in the collection of Capt. Laidlers contributions ("sticky threads"). And Longrifle75, as a fellow newcomer to this kind of work I would suggest you read said article a few times and seriously consider giving it a shot. After all, you already have the screw-hole through the forend so its not like you're putting a bit to untouched wood. As I attempt repairs on some forends I take comfort from the fact that most of the mistakes I make can be fixed. If you try to replace the screw you'll need to use one with the same size/thread pitch as the original or it may not work well.
Ridolpho
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LongRifle, Peter's article is here:
Milsurps Knowledge Library - GETTING RID OF YOUR ‘Ishy’ Screw (by Peter Laidler)
If I can clarify how I would do it - use Peter's pictures as a guide: Before you start, you will need from your local hardware store: white wood glue; 1/4 inch drill bit; 1/2 inch drill bit; 1/4 inch hardwood dowel; 1/2 inch straight wood plug cutter (not a tapered plug cutter). Start by running the 1/4 inch bit right through the Ishy screw hole from one side so it comes out the other side. Then use the 1/2 inch drill bit to counter-sink a shallow hole on each side. the straight walls of the countersink only need to be about 1/8 inch deep. measure the length of 1/4 inch dowel you will need, bearing in mind to leave room either side for the 1/2 inch plugs. Smear white wood glue on the correct length of 1/4 inch dowel and tap it into the hole. Use the 1/2 inch straight plug cutter to cut some plugs from a bit of scrap hardwood with similar colour and grain to the original wood. The plug should be about half an inch thick. Smear the side of the 1/2 inch countersink hole and the plugs with glue, and tap in the plugs so the grain lines up with the grain of the fore-end. Next day or the day after, when the glue is completely, completely dry, gently shave down the plugs and then smooth with very fine sand paper. Use linseed oil or whatever you prefer to finish.
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Further to RobD's comments, I've found (in my lumber store) the size of dowels to be all over the place. You might want to buy the dowel first then punch some trial holes in scrap with your bit to see if it's a good fit. If the dowel is too large you can easily sand it a bit. If it's too small you'll need to obtain a variety of bits to find something that works. I bought one of those el-cheapo sets with 250 bits which gives an incredible range of slightly different sizes. You want a reasonable interference fit but, obviously, you don't want to pound something in that's too large!
Ridolpho
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Thanks guys, I think Ill study it and do some dry runs and if Im comfortable with it Ill give it a shot!
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one tip that i can give from my very limited experience plugging these, I've only done one, is that you dont want your large plug to be too tight or it can turn on its way in and then the grain wont' line up. Take your time though it is a very easy repair and it willlook great when you are done
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ive just got to find wood that will match, cause the wood on the rifle is pretty dark.