Odd 1903A3 / 1903A4 Trigger Pull

[WaffenJäger]

Good afternoon gents,

This will be my first thread/post & hopefully the redundancy of this post catches someone’s eye. To start off I’m very knowledgeable when it comes to 20th century firearms & have a decent collection of WWII weaponry. All of which I can easily repair if need be.

1. 1940 G33/40 (945 coded/all matching/GI bringback)

2. 1944 byf K98k (All matching/GI Bringback)

3. 1942 Walther P.38 (all matching/GI bring back)

4. 1944 CZ 27 (all matching/GI bring back)

5. 1955 HRA M1 Garand (no import marks/all matching)

6. 1943 Inland MFG Division M1 Carbine (no import marks/all “matching”/correct)

7. 1943 1903A3 (1903A4 Clone / weapon in question)

So, I have an idea of what my 1903A4 build is doing but I thought I’d pick your minds as well. It is a 1943 dated Remington (barrel wise but the date correlates properly with the serial number) 1903A3 that I recently purchased as a 1903A4 clone & have been returning it to an original state of a 1903A4. I recently purchased a USGI 1903A4 C-Stock (100% original WWII Remington manufacture 1903A4 stock / bolt cutout & all), replaced the Timney Trigger with a USGI 1903A3 Trigger/sear (where my problem lies), 1903A4 Bolt, a Redfield (Parkerized scope base), Redfield 3/4” split top rings, will throw the Weaver 330 (original) back on top & replaced everything that would have been blued when it came off the line in 1943.

When I replaced the Timney trigger with the USGI 1903A3 trigger assembly I ran into issues. When assembled as a full rifle the trigger can be compressed all the way until the trigger itself hits the rear of the trigger cutout in the trigger guard without dropping the firing pin but when the barreled action is outside of the stock the trigger will drop the sear, dropping the cocking piece, thus dropping the firing pin. I measured accordingly where the trigger stops when the weapon is assembled within the original 1903A4 C-Stock compared to it being a barreled action & the trigger group needs roughly 1/8” more of travel to the rear in order to drop the firing pin when inside the stock.

I then threw the barreled action into the USGI WWII manufactured Scant Stock I have & it has the same issue. To note; When the Timney was installed when I purchased I did not have these issues. If I remove the trigger guard while the action is inside either stock the trigger can be compressed enough to fire but not when the trigger guard is present.

The trigger is 100% USGI WWII manufactured & there is no evidence of said trigger having a trigger job & or then being refinished. The original WWII USGI Trigger assembly I initially purchased had a round faced sear marked “R” on the left hand side, a “4” inside of a Square on the right hand side, there is the proper hole at the bottom of the sear where the sear spring sits & the trigger itself was case hardened & marked “R” on the left hand side. I recently purchased another Remington NOS 1903A3 trigger (Marked R, 100% Blued) & punched out the case hardened trigger & threw this blued Remington Trigger into the same sear: I’m still having the same issues with this trigger. I’m currently waiting on two NOS sears to come in (one blued & manufactured by Remington / square face & the other blued made by Hadley / square face).

I also received a NOS Remington made (blued) cocking piece & installed that this weekend & the issues are still present. I ordered a blued Remington Bolt sleeve / safety (safety is parked) set up as well. Hopefully a sear replacement is the only thing needed but regardless I return everything back to its “correct” state if it is not so when purchased.

So, getting back on track. Weapon fires when the triggerguard is not present but it cannot fire when the trigger guard is present (too much length of pull within the trigger before it breaks so it hits the rear of the triggerguard/trigger cutout without firing). Bolt is solid, inside & out, front to back, nothing obstructing within the stock(s), trigger seems to have too much travel & the trigger guard seems to be the issue with this specific sear / trigger set up. Trigger guard is stamped, parked & marked “R”.

Lastly, I have two NOS USGI WWII manufactured sear springs & decided to cut one (x1) coil on the spring (thinking this could be the problem with this specific trigger) & this did not fix the issue either. This was just an attempt to see if there was too much spring tension & I would not run my “1903A4” as such.

Any help would be appreciated.


Semper Fidelis

Benny

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Cosine26]

If you have another 03/03A3 examine and compare the slot where the sear comes up through the receiver. Some early Timney triggers had an long sear and required opening up the slot to the the front to allow the Timney sear to enter the slot This took away some of the receiver that acts as a fulcrum for the trigger to pull down the issue sear. I do not believe that it happens on later Timney's but do not know. The enlarged slot requires that the trigger be pulled further o drop the standard sear - only possible when the action is out of the stock.m Hope this helps.
FWIW

[Randy A]

typically the stock channel is the culprit but in this case I'd wager that you have an M1917 trigger in it, that is exactly what happens with that combo. Can you post a pic?

[WaffenJäger]

FWIW,

Thank you, this information is greatly appreciated. That is one piece of information I completely looked over. I will check to see if this was the case with my specific build. I do not have another 1903A3 on hand but I will do my research & see if anything looks out of place. This has been more help than you know. I will keep you posted.

Semper Fidelis,

Benny

[WaffenJäger]

Randy,

Below are the photos of the trigger assembly that is currently installed. The last photo with just the trigger pictured is the trigger that is currently installed on the sear (swapped the case hardened trigger for this NOS blued trigger). This is no M1917 trigger assembly, I am familiar as to what they look like. It is the "correct" sear & trigger assembly for my build. As I have mentioned I am waiting on two M1903A3 square face sears to arrive & I will mess with the combinations of said triggers & sears to see if I can get any play. Thank you!

Semper Fidelis,

Benny

[Chuckindenver]

remove the bolt, and take a picture of the inside of the rear of the receiver, were the sear comes up through the action..
if indeed they opened or rounded the hole, it may be toast

[WaffenJäger]

Gents,

A few more photos of said sear in question for good measure. Looks good to me however it has the M1903/A1/A3/early style rounded face & the correct "drain hole" at the bottom of where the sear spring sits. I will keep you posted when the two correct 03A3 square faced sears come in.


Semper Fidelis,

Benny

[WaffenJäger]

ChuckInDenver,

Copy. I will post a photo tonight of the rear of my M1903A3. Hopefully this is not the case.


Semper Fidelis,

Benny

[Cosine26]

Normally a M1917 trigger would, unless altered, to fit in a M1903/03A3 trigger guard.
FWIW

[WaffenJäger]

Gents,

While I'm at it, the M1903A3 "M1903A4 Clone" in its current state.

Original WWII USGI M1903A4 C-Stock (correct cartouches / proofings / bolt cut out, etc)
Original WWII USGI M1907 Sling - With steel/parkerized hardware (25% - 35% park left)
Parkerized "Redfield" scope base
Original ear 3/4 Redfield split top scope rings
Original USGI 03A4 case hardened scope base screws
Original era Weaver 330
Original WWII USGI Remington 1903A3 bolt worked into a proper 1903A4 bolt on a WWII US Army Ord Dept Arsenal bolt jig
Etc., everything else WWII USGI, remaining correct blued parts inbound

Not the real deal, but close. Enjoy


Semper Fidelis,

Benny