Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 4 (by Peter Laidler)

[Badger]

With thanks to Advisory Panel member Peter Laidler, a new article has been added to the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here).

Making Up a Useable No.4 Sniper - Part 4 (by Peter Laidler) (click here)

As Peter says …. "This series will describe a reasonably accurate and passable way of making up a useable No4 sniper from a pile of repro bits. Not a fake or means of ripping anyone off, but just a useable replica.

Article Extract .....

When we left part 3, we had the front and rear pads fitted to the bodyside with their 4BA machine head or raised countersunks (x3 at the front) and countersunk x2 in the rear pad. Now is the time to scrupulously clean and flux and tin the flat and angled mating surfaces of the pads and the body side and allow a small amount of the flux to run into the 4BA holes too. Because we want the soft solder to penetrate into the threaded holes in order to LOCK the screws too. Just run a smooth file down one side of the 4BA threads because this small flat is going to allow the molten solder to run into the threads and lock the screws. Position the front pad and start the screws. They’ll soon get tight in the holes so this is the time to get the flame of the blow torch to soften the solder on the body and pad. While the solder is fluid and you’re playing the flame over the area, get your colleague to slowly, bit at a time and evenly tighten up the screws……… There, they are now done up very tight locking the pad to the body. If he as professional as you and if he’s got the correct size and serviceable screwdriver, you won’t have any amateurish gouges of the screw heads either. …...

Knocking down 12" steel plates at 500 and 600 meters with a 1945 Enfield No.4 Mk1(T).

(Click PIC to Enlarge)(Click PIC to Enlarge)

Peter has added a personal request in regards to this series of articles.

Note: If you have any questions or don’t understand something or my instructions are ambiguous then please ask on the forum and NOT by PM (Private Message). That way everyone will get the benefit of the question and answer.

So, after reading the last part in this series, members are requested to post you questions here in this thread for Part 4, or the appropriate announcement thread for Part's 1, 2 or 3.

Regards,
Badger

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[FHG918]

Sorry - didn't read the instructions and posted my question under the "1945 Enfield No.4 Mk1*(T) Long Branch Sniper Rifle" thread instead.

So to ask it in the right place, and since it is only mentioned briefly at the end of Part 4, how was the cheek piece positioned? Was a jig used, or specific measurements to locate it on the buttstock, or was it truly a individual fitting every time by the armourer? I have looked at all the photos I can find in the Forum, and while all the No4(T) (or L42) cheek pieces are very nearly in the same position, I can't really identify a set location on the buttstock. Also, the mention of a slight cant to the right (as indicated by the fixing screws) is interesting. I'd be grateful for any info.

[Badger]

Hi ...

You might want to try the Google CSE custom search engine located in the top right corner below the words "Advanced Search". For example, in your case, I typed in the words cheek piece no4 to see what would happen ..

I only had a quick look, so I'm not sure what the exact content is about, however, it turned up a lot of threads. You may want to try some other search terms of your own.

Did you see this article in the MKL about mounting a cheek piece?

Mechanical Blueprints and Specifications for the Enfield No.4 Mk1(T) Sniper Rifle (click here) in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here).



Regards,
Doug

[Peter Laidler]

Just as a matter of interest, has anyone followed this series of articles and made a good, passable job of making a replica No4 sniper?

[FHG918]

Doug,
As you can tell, I'm new to the site and still stumbling about, so very much appreciate your suggestions. I did check the search box as you suggested - seems I will have a few evenings of reading!

[xa-coupe]

Just as a matter of interest, has anyone followed this series of articles and made a good, passable job of making a replica No4 sniper?

I have everything ready to go, I just want to get a drill press so I can actually drill straight holes. Unemployment... the hours are great but the pay sucks !

[vintage hunter]

Peter, I built a T clone back in 2009, before I even owned a computer or knew the Milsurps Forum and your article existed. When I became a member here and saw the article I read through it to see if I'd done things in a reasonably correct manner, even sent you a PM or two for an opinion. Personally, I think your article is very informative and well written with simple, easy to understand instructions. Thanks for taking the time to write it and make it available so everyone interested in such a project will at least know the proper way to go about it.. -VH

[newbieDAN]

I'm using it as a basis for my No1MkIII HT build

[bow]

Thanks Captain for this useful work. I'm planning to build my No.4 T replica. Found scope and mounts plus wooden cheeckpiece now i must fully understand your articles. Where could i find the tools to tap the receiver? Could i make them using a conventional iron milling cutter?

[Robert303]

Hello,
I've just joined the forum and have a No 32 Mk II scope and repro mounts. I just missed out on a 4T with pads and cheeck piece but nothing else a couple of months ago and was on the point of selling the scope. However I have now been offered a rifle with pads so want to get started. I've managed the V frame but have hit a problem.
Are the lead screw locking nuts the ones in the centre of the turrets or are they the collars with the slots in them? ?
In either case where do I get the tools to move them?
Thanks
Robert
UPDATE. Have found the tool on NUMRICH so have ordered kit with some other parts for my broken Winchester 94AE. Hopefully they'll arrive soon and I can start on the scope.