1907 Sanderson Bayo

[Milsurf]

I recently acquired a 1907 bayonet marked "SANDERSON" and "1907" with "11" and "17" underneath the full date. Was it made in 1911 and refurbed in 1917? The quillion has serial number D16346 stamped on one side. The bayo is in pretty good condition with a lot of blue (with freckling) on the handle metal. The blade is stained with a small bit of light pitting in places. Was the blade originally in the white with an approx. three quarter inch blued section forward of the quillion, or completely blued? Would it have been completely reblued in a 1917 refurb? I'm considering using Naval jelly or the like to remove the staining on the blade, but don't want to mess it up. Opinions?

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[browningautorifle]

If there's a bit of rust or stain, just use a fine steel wool and oil to remove. The date could be as you say, but I'd think it means Nov/17. That's an inspection mark. The blades were blue but wore off with bayonet practice. Most of us would just leave it alone, unless there's hard rust active.

[old-smithy]

don't use Naval jelly it will remove the original bluing which is what you are describing. 11 and 17 are month and year.

http://www.old-smithy.info/bayonets/...n_bayonets.htm

[Milsurf]

Thank you for you responses!

[Flying10uk]

Milsurf, what you call the quillion I would call the cross guard. The quillion is what some call the hook and it is rare to find a 1907 version. I probably have somewhere around a dozen 1907 bayonets and all are non hookers. Most if not all have blued metal from the pommel to the cross guard and some are blued about 3/4" past the cross guard onto the blade. Using a strong chemical on a bayonet such as this must be a NO NO. I sometimes soak bayonets, if rusty, in diesel but eye protection must be worn at all times when handling/using diesel.

Why not post some pictures, if able to do so, before starting any restoration work?

[Milsurf]

Thanks, Flying10uk, I did use the wrong terminology (I'm not a bayonet guy). It is indeed a non-hooked cross guard, not a quillion. It appears to me that the blade has a blued section as you describe at its base and the rest was originally in the white, now stained and spotted, but with very little pitting.

I've used oil and bronze wool on the non-blued section, which lightened some of the heavier staining but left most of the discoloration still there. This type and amount of staining would almost without exception result in pitting on a Japanese sword, with which I'm more familiar, so I find it interesting that there is next to none here, save one formerly crusty patch towards the tip.

I'm wondering whether perhaps naval jelly, vinegar or the like would leave the blade looking near original, save perhaps a slightly frosty appearance. I'll try to post some pics as the blade is now, but need to wait for daylight tomorrow.

Thanks again to all for your responses.

[Milsurf]

Here are some pics of the bayo. The brown patch just forward of the fuller in the first photo marks the only real pitting on the blade, light as it is. The third photo shows best the type and amount of discoloration.

[Flying10uk]

It looks to be in very good original condition and great care needs to be taken when trying to do any preservation/restoration work on an item such as this. As I have already stated I wouldn't recommend using any strong chemicals such as Naval Jelly on this bayonet. You could soak the metal part (not the wood grips) in diesel or oil and then try rubbing lightly with medium to fine wire wool on the non blued parts where required. Looking at the pictures it doesn't appear to need much doing to it and I don't believe that you will find it possible to remove all the staining.

[browningautorifle]

I agree, some fine steel wool is all that may be needed.

[Milsurf]

As I mentioned, I'm not really a bayonet collector, I just happened to pick this one up on an impulse for a decent price (I think!). In light of the helpful advice offered here, and to preclude me from further thoughts of "improvement", I figured I might offer this bayo here first in trade for a 1917 model in similar shape that I can use for a US model trench shotgun, if that sounds reasonable (my Gen Cut needs company!). Let me know if interested, thanks!