Swedish M-1896 long rifle issues.

[lee sherman]

OK, I've got this Swedish M-1896 long rifle chambered in 6.5x55. It has been converted to cock on opening and the trigger assy. and possibly the bolt have been changed to aftermarket components. If you cock it and when closing the bolt with slight pressure on the trigger and turn the safety catch to fire at the same time the rifle will fire. The trigger has been ground for less trigger pull and must be at a 1 or 2 pound pull. Way too easy for me. I have heard of this problem before but no info on the fix. Bad cocking piece, weak sear spring, excessive grinding at the trigger? A factory trigger is different and won't work with this trigger assy. No markings on the bolt or the trigger assy. I'm afraid. This rifle has been sporterized many years ago. Any ideas gentlemen. LS

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[Patrick Chadwick]

If you cock it and when closing the bolt with slight pressure on the trigger and turn the safety catch to fire at the same time the rifle will fire.

Sorry, I don't quite get it. 3 actions simultaneously? Cock AND finger on trigger AND turning the safety lever to fire at the same time? That sounds like an artificial problem to me. Basically, don't do it.

First off, don't cock a rifle, any rifle, with your finger on the trigger. When the rifle is uncocked, the only trigger pressure is provided by the trigger return spring and sear spring, and both are rather light. So your "slight" pressure is probably sufficient to move the sear so far out that the sear will not hold the cocking ledge. Especially as the rifle has been altered, and the sear/cocking ledge interaction has apparently been manipulated to provide a lighter trigger!

Second, don't manipulate the safety lever while cocking the rifle. The safety operates by holding the cocking ledge/notch just clear of the sear, so that there is no contact between sear and cocking ledge.

On a rifle that has NOT been Bubba-ed you can see this action if you look closely. Cock the rifle, then look VERY closely at the cocking piece when you turn the safety from fire to safe. You will see the cocking piece being forced back a small amount (tenths of a mm) so that it is clear of the sear. As a result, the trigger can be operated without the cocking piece moving forwards.

Correct action, and how to recognize an incorrect and dangerous action, is described in detail here:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....-off+slam+fire

Search the forum for "safety-off fire" and "slam fire". Please correct me if I have misunderstood your post, but basically (if I have understood correctly) what you are doing is wrong. On a rifle that may or may not be marginal anyway, you seem to be provoking a safety-off fire. As a result, when the safety is turned of "fire", the action fires!

Just don't do it!

And please note that a trigger pressure of less than 2 pounds on a military bolt action is approaching "dangerously light". One pound is likely to lead to a "slam fire" risk. Since you can't "ungrind" the parts that have been FUBARed, it would be safest to return the rifle to its original configuration, i.e. replace bolt, sear, and trigger assembly. Swedish Mausers perform superbly as built, and f...ing about with the action to "improve" it is not a bright idea.

[lee sherman]

Your post is understood. I'm gonna probably replace the trigger group as an assy. as this trigger that's in it has seen too much grindstone with a hair trigger that's scary. Thanks.

[Calif-Steve]

I am not sure who has M96 parts anymore. Try Springfield Sporters, beyond them I have no idea.

[lee sherman]

The trigger group that's in it is a Dayton Traister that has been modified. Brownells sells the same trigger assy. which is what I will purchase. I'll try that first then a new cocking piece if necessary. Thanks all.