How Can I repair these scratches without refinishing the stock?

[MilsurpMM]

I bought this nice K98 but these scratches on the side of the stock kind of bother me. I am absolutely not considering refinishing the stock, however, is there anyway I can cover up these scratches?

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[Brian Dick]

It looks like varnish to me. I'd strip it with proper varnish remover, clean the wood with clear ammonia and a Scotchbrite pad, let it dry and then oil it with raw linseed. The process will most likely make the majority of the scratches disappear without scraping and sanding.

[MilsurpMM]

It looks like varnish to me. I'd strip it with proper varnish remover, clean the wood with clear ammonia and a Scotchbrite pad, let it dry and then oil it with raw linseed. The process will most likely make the majority of the scratches disappear without scraping and sanding.

The scratches go deep into the wood. They're scratches you can feel. I wish they were only varnish scratches but unfortunately not

[CINDERS]

I would go with Brians suggestion get it back to bare wood by ridding the stock of the bl**dy varnish that bubba likes to plaster on military rifles. Get a damp cloth and mum's hot iron and steam as much of it out as you can won't lift it a great deal but will be an improvement.
As also suggested get to it with some applications of RLO letting it dry for 24 hours between coats the wood will come up a whole lot better looking nicer finish it off with a light coating and soft buff up with bee's wax thats how I have done all my 303 stocks. The stock will then look as it should not like some tarted up bling gun that budda wanted.................
NB for best results the rifle should be stripped down so the stock can be done inside & out.

[Brian Dick]

If you try my process as described, you'll be surprised that the scratches and dings where the grain isn't broken will raise up anyhow. You can go at the deeper ones as Cinders says but not until you get the wood cleaned of the crap varnish and dry.

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

If it is in fact varnish the process Brian described will yield very good results with an original finish.

[Patrick Chadwick]

Search the forum for "treacle rifle" and you will find a couple of examples that demonstrate how a crudded-up rifle can be enormously improved by removing old varnish.

[WarPig1976]

If this were a coffee table or stair rail I'd say use a Filler stick available at any hardware store. Amish master carpenters and Swiss watch makers call them melted in crayons of appropriate color, but it's not so it will look ridiculous.

[painter777]

is there anyway I can cover up these scratches?

You could add multiple coats of a flat/low sheen varnish or tung oil. That will act as a clear 'filler' then fine buff the stock. But I wouldn't do it. You'll just end up high lighting the dirt/grime that accumulated in the scratched wood grain. The hardest scratches to cure are those that run across the grain.
As already advised above, strip off the varnish. Then give the wood plenty of time to 'Breathe' which will allow some of the grain to raise. Afterward you could try spot steaming over the areas that bother you. Before applying the RLO coats, Do a light sanding with 3M Flexible Polishing Papers. Before you JUMP out of your chair.... read on- You can get these in different grades. Below a link if interested:
3M Flexible Polishing Papers | stewmac.com


I've used the 3M Flex Paper for years. From polishing out scratches on pocket watch cases to clear and painted finishes on factory and site built cabinets, built ins, stairway systems etc. To include wet color sanding on lacquer and clear coats. Some grits finer than the kleenex you use.

Good luck
Charlie-Painter777

[mrclark303]

If you try my process as described, you'll be surprised that the scratches and dings where the grain isn't broken will raise up anyhow. You can go at the deeper ones as Cinders says but not until you get the wood cleaned of the crap varnish and dry.

Absolutely concur with Brian and Cinder's. I can't abide varnish on a military rifle.

I think many cases of what appears to be varnish are a historic build up of boiled linseed oil ... It achieved the same result over time.

The process of removing all this accumulated crap, the use of scotchbrite and raw linseed oil, will bring the wood roaring back to life, nourishing and allowing the wood to breath again. The results can be dramatic and very satisfying.

One word of caution, just noticed your stock appears to be the "ersatz" laminated type.

I haven't personally restored one of these before, anything to watch out for with these when restoring guys?