M1 Gas Cylinder Lock Looseness

[BottleBaby]

I'm tightening up an M1. So, I glued the gas cylinder to the barrel in order to take out the play. When I put on the Gas Cylinder Lock, it clocked to about Noon before it was tight. Loosening back to 6:00 leaves a gap of ~.015".

What's are some ways for a shade-tree like me to deal with this?

I like methods that aren't permanent, like glue.

Information

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[islandhopper]

Unless you remove metal from the lock or buy a different lock there isn't much you can do. Personally, I would remove the gas cylinder (if that is possible), peen the barrel splines (very simple, easy, free, etc...) and tap the gas cylinder on. I would be hesitant in the first place to use glue as that barrel gets pretty hot. When you peen, unless you slam a hammer down excessively hard on the splines and you don't do it evenly, you don't really see a difference. And eventually, especially if you are one to remove the gas cylinder a lot, the splines will become wider again. Just my thoughts.

[BottleBaby]

IH,
I'm using green LockTite #294, so I believe it will stand up to the heat.

I know about peening, was wondering if anyone used epoxy or wire or something for shims.

Or if I shouldn't worry about it.

[Bob Womack]

Another poster was relating that Gus Fisher, a noted retired Marine Garand smith, keeps a large supply of gas cylinder locks on hand and tries out multiple locks on a Garand until he finds one that locks up tight at 6:00. Yep, they fit differently. If you have some pesos, you could start collecting. They cost $14.95 at Fulton Armory.

Bob

[gary]

I use a thin high temp O ring on the barrel between the gas cylinder and the front hand guard.This method works for me, i woundn't peen the barrel i know its sometimes recommended the o ring will tighten the hand guard and the gas cylinder your groups will improve try it its cheap, O rings at the auto store $.25

[Litt'le Lee]

Beer Can

[goo]

i don't think glue or o rings are a good idea.
in any case, it might be worthwhile to shoot it as is an then see how it shoots with glue or an o ring. i doubt there would be any improvement... certianly not with garden variety 30-06.
...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2385/...587184.jpg?v=0

[Maury Krupp]

If I'm reading your post correctly you've gone about things bass-ackwards

You shouldn't glue the gas cylinder on until you've fitted the gas cylinder lock.

The gas cylinder lock gets screwed on until it stops against the barrel shoulder and then is backed off until it aligns with the gas cylinder. The gas cylinder lock screw is then inserted and tightened to draw the gas cylinder up to the lock.

That way there is no gap between the gas cylinder and gas cylinder lock to deal with.

You do want a gap between the gas cylinder and front handguard to allow for barrel expansion.

Thread timing on individual barrels and gas cylinder locks is what it is; there was none specified. As far as the Army was concerned, even if a lock had to be unwound from 4 o'clock it was still good-to-go.

On match conditioned rifles a gas cylinder lock that stops finger tight on the shoulder at around 5 o'clock and is tightened with a wrench to 6 is desireable. About the only way to get one is to have a bucket of locks to pick from.

Maury

[BottleBaby]

If I'm reading your post correctly you've gone about things bass-ackwards

You shouldn't glue the gas cylinder on until you've fitted the gas cylinder lock.

Maury,
That's why I like glue so much.

So, should I peen the splines? Or let the glue take a set before I position the gas cylinder? Or swap around some cylinder locks? The way it is now, the gas cylinder is tight against the handguard ferrule.

[togor]

Maury,
That's why I like glue so much.

So, should I peen the splines? Or let the glue take a set before I position the gas cylinder? Or swap around some cylinder locks? The way it is now, the gas cylinder is tight against the handguard ferrule.

Remove the gas cylinder (use wood block against bayonet lug). Clean away old loctite (acetone helps with removal). Reinstall gas cylinder with judicious amount of loctite (I use red myself, withstands heat better). Only this time, FULLY REASSEMBLE the gas system BEFORE the loctite sets up. It will cure with the cylinder by definition in the right place. When it's done you'll find that the cylinder lock bottoms out a little past 6-o-clock, and that there will be a little gap between the gas cylinder rear ring and the front handguard, which is exactly what you want.