Are Ross Rifle bolts interchangeable?

[AaronF]

Hey All,

I am new to both this forum and to the Ross Rifle. I inherited an old Ross m-10 and something is not right with the bolt. It will screw into the chamber no problem, but when I pull it back it will only come back about halfway and then the bolt face gets jammed on the left rail. It seems like the bolt head is not straightening out right.

I was thinking that finding a new bolt would be the best solution (unless there is something obvious that can be fixed).

Are the bolts on all ross rifles interchangeable? If not, are there any models that are interchangeable with the bolt on my m-10?

Thanks,

Aaron

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Badger]

Welcome Aaron ...

Check "sticky" threads at top of this forum for Knowledge Library references on Ross Rifles.

I'm not a Ross rifle collector, but be careful with the bolt …

Ross M-10 Rifle Bolt Disassembly

1913 Ross MkIII Rifle Manual

There's a lot of Ross collectors here who can help you further ...

Regards,
Doug

[browningautorifle]

Don't get too hasty, there are a couple of men here that will come sort this out...

[buffdog]

Read the sticky on how to properly assemble the Ross rifle bolt. First of all, with the bolt in the rifle, when the bolt is fully open and in the rearward position, there should be a gap of about one inch between the back of the bolt lugs and the front of the bolt carrier (the part with the bolt handle on it.) If it is only about 1/4 inch space, then you have a wrongly assembled bolt. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT FIRE IT IN THIS CONDITION. IT WILL NOT BE PROPERLY LOCKED.

If fired with a wrongly assembled bolt, the locking lugs engage only about 1/6 of the area that they are supposed to. When fired, the bolt will shear the left locking lugs, come back, and hit you between the eyes. This is usually fatal. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

Take a flashlight, and shine it into the rear of the receiver ring when you are closing the bolt. You should be able to see the locking lugs on the bolt fully close and seat.

[AaronF]

Read the sticky on how to properly assemble the Ross rifle bolt. First of all, with the bolt in the rifle, when the bolt is fully open and in the rearward position, there should be a gap of about one inch between the back of the bolt lugs and the front of the bolt carrier (the part with the bolt handle on it.) If it is only about 1/4 inch space, then you have a wrongly assembled bolt. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT FIRE IT IN THIS CONDITION. IT WILL NOT BE PROPERLY LOCKED.

I have read this already and I can't verify if the gap between the back of the bolt lugs and the front of the bolt carrier is 1inch because I cannot pull the bolt all the way back without the bolt lugs getting jammed on the left rail of the reciever that the bolt slides on. When I pull the bolt back the bolt lugs seem to overturn and catch on the rail. I can only pull the bolt back about 1/3 of the way.

[Warren]

Us a quarter...it it just fits between the body and head with the head extended you are OK

[AaronF]

I am pretty sure that the bolt is assembled correctly. It has not been taken apart since it was fired last, but that was some time ago. Now, for some reason, the bolt will not pull back all of the way and it is because the bolt head is overturning and catching on the rail. I am wondering if I need a new bolt and if I do need a new bolt can I use any bolt out of a Ross Rifle or does it have to be out of an M-10?

[Rowdy]

Pictures

[AaronF]

Thanks for the pictures Rowdy

[smellie]

Okay, friend, you have had the cautions.

ONLY a Model of 1910 bolt will fit a 1910 Ross. Fortunately, there were quite a few made (it's the most common model) so finding what you need should not be too ard. Headspacing is important, o course, as they had only normal manufacturing techniques and toleraces DO exist: no CNC machine-tools in 1910. If the extractor holds the loaded round against the boltface when you load the rifle, it should chamber and fire safely. You then ecksize your cases, reload and have fun again.

I wish we were closer; your problem sounds as if it should be curable without going to the necessity of finding another bolt.

Lubricate the critter thoroughly, making sure you get some oil inside the bolt, then try removing it again. Do you have the wing on the bolt-release (left side of the frame, quite to the rear end) turned so the little 'flag' points staight out. This sounds more like interference from garbage than anything else. Could be crap in the trigger mech is holding the thing in position, trying to keep it closed.

I`ll do a teardown on one of mind and see if I can duplicate this.

Good luck!

And welcome to the wonderful world of Ross Rifles! When you get t running, you will find that it is a FINE rifle.
.