1917 ShtLE Restoration Help

[SPQR]

What hell hath I wrought? So it starts off simple with a genuine Bubbatized 1917 ShtLe Mark III* and apparently a hell of a lot of naivety. Somehow I had convinced myself that I could buy all the parts and the rifle would just come together. Well it doesn't take a Rhodes Scholar to see where this went. It went so well until the furniture came in the Numrich box I had become so accustomed to seeing at my step. Guys I thought I knew full well what it would take to fit this rifle into the said furniture. Turns out I had know idea that the furniture would require so much "customization". This is my first project and I truly need some help from some of you that may have dealt with Numrich stock sets specifically with the fore end and the stock itself. I would really like to know if my wood will require the amount of sanding that I believe or if I may have the wrong stock. I thank y'all in advance.

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[Brit plumber]

Its hard to tell but is the stock a No.4 stock? A No.1 stock has a notch cut out where the safety lever sits into the it when at safe. Excess material is normal on NOS parts.

[SPQR]

Its hard to tell but is the stock a No.4 stock? A No.1 stock has a notch cut out where the safety lever sits into the it when at safe. Excess material is normal on NOS parts.

I am so glad you mentioned this because I thought the wood that came was defective. On the other side there is a notch, a horrible idea of one but none the less. Thanks for the help.

---------- Post added at 03:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:59 PM ----------

Don't forget that the profile of the back of the butt is supposed to be larger than that of the butt plate.

Glad you noted this tbone. Judging by pictures I had assumed that the butt plate should have covered the edges of the butt stock. Also I don't appreciate you crushing my dreams of having a shootable ShtLE by years end. Very improper to go about stomping on the hopes of an excited man. Seriously though I do appreciate your help and I will document the project as it moves forward.

[tbonesmith]

Also I don't appreciate you crushing my dreams of having a shootable ShtLE by years end. Very improper to go about stomping on the hopes of an excited man.

I sincerely apologize, I'm not yet finished having nightmares that I have to do mine again That fear made me nasty and cruel, I'll try to keep better control of myself in future...

[tbonesmith]

Don't forget that the profile of the back of the butt is supposed to be larger than that of the butt plate. While the butt might well need some relief/sanding is should not finish flush with the edges of the butt plate. I think the timber should be proud by approximately 2 or 3 mm of the butt plate more or less all the way around.

The butt pictured looks pretty close to right to me.

Fitting the forend from new is a very difficult job, I did a photographic record of myself fitting up a new No4 forend in my No4T rebuild thread: No4 Mk1 T Rebuild
I am a qualified Shipwright/Boatbuilder, and have worked as a custom cabinetmaker and joiner doing very detailed work for years, I work with timber every day, Ive got all the right tools, and it took me 4 tries to get it right with written step by step instructions. It was the most difficult, and exacting bit of timber fitting I've ever done, so good luck.

[Bear43]

Stocking up an Enfield is a time consuming process, especially the fore-end. I have done a few myself, and I will never forget my very first attempt. I did not fit the "draws" correctly and in less than 10 rounds I reduced a beautiful walnut fore-end to matchsticks because of it. Research the fitment, read the articles by Mr. Laidler, and then proceed slowly until you get the fore-end fitted properly. Once it is done and fitted correctly it should give you many years of use without any issues.

[Bearclaw]

Tbone,
Now you are scaring me, I think I will bring the 3 forestocks down for you to do for me, it will give you more practice.

[Peter Laidler]

As a matter of interest, the butt plate should NOT cover the edges of the butt. There should be a neat regular gap all the way around. If you were an apprentice or taking your trade test exams, it'd be, say, the width of a hacksay blade all round between the edge of the butt and the butt plate.

On the same subject, the wood should always be proud of the metalwork. If not, it shows that a butcher has been let loose with the sandpaper or scraper. If you scraped a fore-end down so that you got to the level of the tie-plate (at the rear of the Mk1 type.....) or fore-end cap or sling band recesses, then you really got a roasting.

Nope, wood always proud of the metalwork, just like the last picture