Finn 91/30 front sight elevation

[MeatMarket]

Hi guys,
I have a 1941 M91/30 with a Finnish stock (two-piece finger jointed) and it has the blade front sight instead of the hooded post. This rifle shoots 2 ft high at a 100 yds and I want to adjust it to be accurate. I've heard of the wire insulation and heat-shrink tubing tricks for the hooded post version. Does anyone have any ideas for the blade version? Obviously a tube won't fit over the blade. Do they make any spacers to fit in the dovetail to raise it up?

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[george1108]

I generally don't like to mess with the original front sight and can sometimes find a front sight for the M91's at gun shows. A bit of steel repair epoxy on the top will give the added height needed to drop the point of impact. I remove the sight and get a reference height measurement, then do the epoxy and try to get the smoothest possible surface finish on the sides. after curing it can be filed to a general contour and height. I generally make the front sight 1/16" higher than original height and this gives plenty of room for adjustment.
A trip to the range with a file and in 20-30 minutes you should be finished and have the point of impact adjusted to where you want it.

The other alternative is to have someone do a little TIG welding to the tip of the sight and then the file work is the same.

For my 91/30's I remove the front post and install a piece 0f 0.097" diameter wire with the added length as needed. This is glued back into the sight base and remounted. Then it is the same as above. A trip to the range with a very narrow file and the point of impact is corrected.

I hope this helps.

[MeatMarket]

Thanks, that does help. Fortunately my other 91/30 was already accurate when I got it so I can have some good Mosin fun without making adjustments to it.

[jmoore]

Finn 91/30s with the blade front sight came with a small block under the front sight proper to get it high enough. "Dual dovetailed" is a common descriptor. If you can't find photos, I may have one to illustrate, but maybe not... I can't remember!

At any rate, you could fashion such a thing for your purposes. If you've lots of time and a steady hand, it could be done with a hacksaw and some files. Quicker and easier to mill one, but it's not required.

[vintage hunter]

Go to Mosin Nagant.netand click on ''the Finnish Area'' and scroll down to the 91/30 section, shows a good picture of what JMoore is referring to.

[MeatMarket]

Thanks, I checked it out. Mine doesn't have the block under it. It's simply a very tall blade which is somehow still too short. My cousin owns a milling machine, he may be able to help me fabricate a block for it. Though I don't know the formula to calculate how high it needs to go to bring the point of impact down 2 feet.

[jmoore]

H/Sight radius in inches = 24"/3600" (Distance to be moved divided by the distance to the target in inches)

H = (24"/3600")xSight radius in inches

"H" is how many inches tall the block needs to be.


Run a tape measure from the rear face of the rear sight to the rear face of the front sight to obtain your sight radius.

[MeatMarket]

Thank you very much, this helps me a lot.