Chamber reaming M1 Garand-need help

[mshehan]

Hello,

Here's my issue. I have an M1 Garand that I want to replace the bolt. Of the two (new) bolts I have to choose from, neither headspace. One bolt #D28287-SA is in excellent condition. The second bolt #6528287-SA is a new unissued piece and my info shows correct for my 5mil. serial receiver. They both actually headspace too tight.The current bolt (D28287-SA) headspaces fine but has a lot of wear on the lugs and is pitted cosmetically. It is a fine functioning rifle. Question is, can I extend the current chamber by reaming to obtain proper headspace? Can I use a pull through style reamer (without removing the barrel) or does the barrel need to come off and reamed in a conventional manner? So many resources show that many ream with a pull through style with the receiver in place. My gunsmith claims he needs to remove the barrel to extend the chamber. I even talked to someone at Krieger barrels (just to price a new barrel) but also explained what I thought about doing as mentioned above. It seems they agreed with my gunsmith (but was sketchy on info - maybe intentionally). Why is it then so many resources claim to install a short chambered barrel on a receiver, and then finish ream??? I'm confused!!! It seems I got off topic but I believe I have a similar issue in that I need to extend the chamber to headspace correctly but am getting conflicting information.

Please help!

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[browningautorifle]

The usual proceedure for M1 rifle is to use a pullthrough ream so when the bolt closes, the headspace's correct. The gunsmith may know what he's doing, but the conventional ream is pullthrough. I did do mine the way your gunsmith says but most of these others here will disagree with me. If you have to ream, it's going to be very slight. Yes, you're extending the chamber when reaming. Also maybe removing the slightest amount from the shoulders. The pullthrough reamers don't really cut at the back end.

Does that answer you?

[mshehan]

Also maybe removing the slightest amount from the shoulders.

Please define the "shoulder"

[browningautorifle]

The forward part of the casing, where it changes from the case wall to the neck that holds the bullet.

[JBS]

They both actually headspace too tight

When you say the above are you stating the bolts will not close on Mil Spec ammo when the op rod is allow to drive home ?

I have always used a pull through to set final head space on a M1.

[mshehan]

When you say the above are you stating the bolts will not close on Mil Spec ammo when the op rod is allow to drive home ?

Will not close on GO gage

[Kirk]

A pull through reamer is the simplest and easiest way to finish ream a chamber. Headspace gauges are needed only to verify the chamber is within the min/max specs. The reamer itself serves like a gauge. Once the rod & reamer are in place, the bolt is lightly pushed against the reamer as the reamer is turned (stopping often to clean out chips & flush out the chamber). When the bolt handle turns down all the way, stop; the chamber is done. Verify using a Go & No Go gauge.

Attachment 29888 Attachment 29889 Attachment 29890 Attachment 29891

The pictures here show a bolt action but the principle is the same. A Garand bolt -stripped of all parts and pushed only with the finger tips - would be lightly pushed against the reamer until the lug touches the receiver. The reamer here is covered in chips from the upper third of the case body just short of the shoulder.

[JBS]

Strip the bolt of ejector and extractor clean well before checking. Do the same with chamber and make sure all oil is removed. Use a Clymer gauge, closest to original. Instead of me writing a long winded how to take a look here friend, CMP already has a nice write up.
http://www.odcmp.org/0309/default.asp?page=M1HEADSPACE

[Rick Cummelin]

Kirk's photos & description are accurate and are the way to go, IMHO. I have finish-reamed several new M1 barrels in that manner and wound up with perfect headspacing. BTW- the bolt used to provide the pressure MUST be the exact same bolt you intend to keep with the rifle. I found that two people worked best: one turning the reamer and the other applying the light pressure to the back of the bolt until the bolt just closes on the reamer. I think I bought my reamer from Brownell's, but maybe not. IMHO, this is an easy do-it-yourself job--the money you would pay to that gunsmith will likely buy the reamer.

I don't understand why the gunsmith you spoke to wanted to remove the barrel--that's totally unnecessary, and will result in lots of guessing as to how much material to remove--makes no sense at all. It would likely cost a bunch more money too! Sounds like someone who has no familiarity with M1s.

[Mark in Rochester]

How far from closing is the go gage?

Is there partial lug engagement?

Perhaps all you need is a few tenths (0.0001)

consider lapping the bolt lugs to the receiver if it is near closing

hth