Suncorite 259: mode of use

[K31/43]

Hello,
I've got some suncorite.
Could you give me details about the correct use of it?
Sprayed and baked? What temperature?
Thanks for reply
K31/43

Information

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[Warren]

Stir the living bejesus out of it as it WILL HAVE 3/4 of an inch of sediment in the bottom of the can. You might have to cut the can in half to remove the sediment and then reconstitute it back into solution. It will settle very quickly however so keep it agitated regularly.
Depending on how you use it will depend on how you dilute it. Most of the time it is cut 50/50 with methylated spirits when used in a air brush, but have a bottle of spirits to run through when you stop as it will harden almost instantly in the air brush. You can also use automotive reducer but it is very toxic. Several thin coats are better than one thick coat (in my experience) and baking at 225 F seems to work well and will not affect most metal components.
Be sure to wear a mask when spraying as it is listed as a carcinogenic......
first tip: I put a few glass marbles (alleys) in the bottom of the can to help when I shake the can to mix it up.
second tip: make sure you clean the threads of the container and cap or you will be drilling and blasting to get the cap off if you slop any Suncorite on the threads. I'm sure others will have different methods of use and storage but there you have a starter.......

[Brit plumber]

Completely agree with Warren, I always have an inch or so of sludge at the bottom to mix. One of the probs I've come across which I find bizare is that I can thin the stuff out with Meths and then if I find I need to thin a little further, it then fails to mix and goes to rat s**t, causing the need to strip down and clean my spray gun. I use 2 pack paint thinners now and it gives good results. a good indication that the paints not mixed well is when a coat dries and you have thin areas with darker outlines. I tend to turn up the air pressure and turn down the quantity of paint goint to the nozzle, spray what looks like a messy fine spray on the parts and spray a tester on a random scrap bit of steel (Or the thinners/paint can works well). Leave the messy tester to go sticky, when its sticky enough for the can/scrap peice to stick to your finger, put a thicker coat (Not reallt thick though) on a lower air pressure on the parts. The coat will dry thinner than you think and don't worry about little runs, they usually dry flat. Also, you may find on some complicated items like Bren bodies that you need to paint certain areas, allow to dry a bit and then paint the rest, it will stop you over spraying wet parts that you've already sprayed causing runs. It can take me 4 or 5 applications on a Bren body, to get a nice even coat. No doubt the painter finishers at base work shops would have done it in a couple of passes but I don't get the practice for that.

[Brian Dick]

An air brush is fine for small or medium sized parts. I use a larger automotive touch-up spray gun for bigger parts like barreled receivers, Bren and GPMG bodies. It will give a much more even job and a couple of light coats usually does the trick. The baking temperature is 425F for an hour. That's an F conversion from C as received directly from MoD workshops. The paint is very forgiving when it dries as Brit plumber says.

[Peter Laidler]

The man from AKZO coatings told me once that once Sunkorite has separated down into its particulants, it is impossible (?) to reconstitute it. The give-away is generally, the use-by date. But a tin that well used and shaken will last well beyond that date.

Brian has the idea re temperature and thickness. But be advised. The temp is slightly beyond the melting point of soft solder so you might find a weep of solder between soldered joints such as the body pads, foresight blocks etc etc

[Brian Dick]

That has happened to me before. I should have mentioned the effect on soft solder but forgot.

[Peter Laidler]

Someone I know had a load of sunkorite put into some of the big size aerosol cans by the local auto body shop or paint people. I don't know how they did it but it was put in through the top in a very thin formand the can pressurised.

I had a tin that I used for ages for touching up but I think that he's still got some. As you know, there's already a ball bearing in the can so mixing it is just a matter of shake the thing for 2 minutes

[browningautorifle]

That sounds really difficult to use...

[Surpmil]

As one of those who was very kindly provided with a can or two some years ago, I can only add that airbrushing is the way to go and I found that disassembling the air brush and putting the parts in meths and then sitting that container in my ultrasonic did a fantastic job of cleaning all the residues off.

[Peter Laidler]

Anyone thinking of going down the aerosol route? It's simplicity itself!