Gew 98, any ideas on this?

[rattletrap1970]

This is a sporterized Mauser I've had kicking around, was wondering what is up with the numbers on it.










If there's nothing particularly special about it, I'm going to use the receiver for something.

Information

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[Promo]

It's a Radom made rifle, serial number 1.

[rattletrap1970]

Any background on that?

[rattletrap1970]

I mean, is there any significance to it being a "1"?
Someone bubba'd the heck out of it but the receiver is still in good shape and would make a good gun to re-do properly.

[Promo]

What parts are matching? A Radom rifle is rather rare, but it would depend upon how much sporterized it is. What are the receiver markings on top?

[Patrick Chadwick]

What parts are matching?

Are any parts matching? This is not a joke question. I can see a 1, 5, 8, 9, 05 (?safety), 12 ... 3 different numbers in various places on the action body - The thing almost looks like a numbered diagram... "No. 8, this is the recoil lug, which in your case you have not got!"

Quite seriously - see how many different numbers are the same. If every one is different, then it is not a bitsa, but a rifle "labelled" for instruction purposes. Who on earth would need a number on the bottom of the recoil lug? Or on the bottom of the receiver just in front of the trigger mounting? Or the 5 on the side of the trigger guard loop, when the usual numbering position was on the front tang? And the 12 on the bolt catch looks as if the 2 was added after the 1. Are there more numbers in out-of the-way places?

Yes, I know it sounds like a far-fetched idea. But please, just humor me and see how many numbers you can discover!

[Calif-Steve]

Looks like at buffed-out Gew98 from WWI production. German production not Radom. The serial number "1" is not uncommon as the numbers were commonly repeated with an a,b, or c, all the way to z. So you would see a "1a", then a "2a" all the way to "9999a". Then started again at "1b" etc.

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

Very interesting!

[rattletrap1970]

I'm not trying to pass this thing off as anything, all I asked is what is the deal with these numbers. I did not bubba this rifle. They don't appear to be buffed off or removed cause the numbers that ARE still there are very deep, if they selectively buffed off numbers that deep there would be discrepancies in depth all over the place. I included a photo of every number that exists on it. I am somewhat unfamiliar with Radom rifles. It's been in a pile of parts I've had for a long time and now that I have time I figured I'd maybe make something out of something that someone already butchered up. The only thing left is the barreled action, floorplate/trigger guard and trigger. It appears someone got rid of ALL the furniture and metal and sights. I was simply thinking of rebarreling it in 7mm08 (just cause I don't have one, but do have brass and dies). I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something that would ruin any karma I had left if I did something to it.

[Patrick Chadwick]

all I asked is what is the deal with these numbers.

And I all asked for, for very good reason, was all the numbers you can find! In this case, the lack of a numbers can also be significant. On a properly inspected and accepted '98 there should be a number on the barrel, on the left side of the "root", with several inspector's stamps. The barrel number is fundamental to a German rifle, and was never omitted or erased. Unlike English practice (see the Lee Enfield forum), where the receiver is viewed as the fundamental item, in Germany it is the chambered barrel. So you can freely buy and sell receivers here, but not barrels.

The point of all this is, a) if the barrel never had a number, then it was never a rifle passed fit for use. b) If it had a number, but this has been erased, then Bubba has been at work.
Answer a) would support my "instruction model" hypothesis.

On the bolt shroud, there should also be the last two digits of the rifle number. They are stamped in a small size there where the rim of the shroud widens to join the boss that holds the axle of the safety lever. High left in your last photo, where I think I can see something, but cannot read it.

Another one: dismantle the bolt, and again you should find the last two digits stamped on the flat of the striker.

I included a photo of every number that exists on it.

I'm sure that you thought so, but as you can see, there ought to be some more. I appreciate that first of all one has to know where to look, which is why I have taken the trouble to write such a long post, so please look again.